MP63

Oh well. I thought someone close by could use it. Heck, it's free. It goes to the haz-mat collection. Thanks anyways. Mike

I have been living in an apartment for several years and realize I will not use what I have. I have some finishing material, that I never used and if anyone would like to take it off my hands, it is here for the taking. I am cleaning up my pace and need someone to take this. I live in Los Angeles. In the El Sereno section. That's just north-east of downtown, maybe five miles out. 1 qt McFaddens gloss lacquer, 1 qt. McFaddens sealer, 1 qt. Behlen vinyl sealer, 1 qt. Behlen lacquer retarder, 1 pt. Luthier's Mercantile, rosewood pore filler Email me if you are interested. Thanks, Mike Los Angeles, CA

I became that way with mahogany and oak. It's all maple and poplar for me now. It's okay. Life is good, and maple and poplar are great woods. We live and we learn. Getting old sucks at times.

I would do that, but I think it better to use a respirator/mask to stop any from entering your body. Especially sanding. Chisel work and large shavings? Not as critical as dust. Hope it all turns our great!

Used Deft brush on lacquer. Now in Souther California, it is banned. Does anyone have experience with the waterborne Deft? Thanks, Mike

Don't forget the Irving Sloane, Steel String Guitar Construction. It's what many learned with. Basic techniques that will save you so much money. I still refer to this book. Don't worry about the post being two years old. Good luck, Mike

Can the Variax 6 be played minus the computer, or is a computer required to take advantage of all the effects. I'd like all the effect available with just a guitar and amp. Thanks, Mike

I like the idea of heating them, but make sure you have enough wire for the whole neck, unless you have some of the same wire. Make sure the slots are clean and that the edges of the slot are not perfectly square. Run a triangle file on the edges just enough to take the edge off. The tang and the head of the fret materiel is not perfectly square, and that can contribute to frets not seating all the way. That is my observation. If the frets are sitting real high, a wire cutter with a flat face will work in removing them. The wood will, more than likely, chip so save that wood for gluing it back. Clean the slots or deepen them, check for a straight fingerboard with the rod adjusted, and refret. It isn't as hard as it seems. Make sure you check the fret height as you file them down. One high fret might wear down to nothing if it's too high while the rest near by might show no wear. The high ones can be hammered down before you continue filing. You just want to get the fret tops with a slight wear when taking them down. The angle on the fret ends can be done by hand with a file. Just watch the headstock for any damage the file may do. Push the file in one direction only. Don't pull back against the frets. It's not production, so take you time and enjoy the fun. Fixing mess-ups are part of the excitement of building. Is this too old school fretting? That's how I remember it. It has been years since I worked on any guitars. Divorce will make you live in the smallest of places. Is that a Charvel neck? If so, what year is it? I worked there in 1985-1986 and did the fretting. I can't wait to one day have a garage again and start the passion again. Guys with garages...appreciate them. I wish I had one again. Mike

The best thing I have used for dot markers is a router bit on a drill press. No wandering of the bit. Perfect flat base. Try it on scrap. Mike

Go lightly and change the angle.

I love such individual originals. Great work.

I had my nieces name engraved into my white Rickenbacker pickguard. A laser was used and it came out great. I want to fill it with a red metallic substance. Any ideas about the Inlace material? Of curse, I want the metal to shine nicely and dry hard. Thanks, Mike

I want to fill a name that has been lasered into my pickguard. The pickguard is white and I want the flake a brilliant red. If I find a nice flake, what substance should I mix it in that'll keep the color and have it dry hard? Epoxy or CA glue? Any suggestions? Thanks for any help. Mike

I have a Rickenbacker pickguard that I had laser etched with my nieces name. It is about 1/32" deep and I wish to inlay it with a red metallic material. I thought of a fine, red metallic flake with epoxy or a Crazy Glue type of material. Any ideas what might work the best? Thanks Mike

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I tried red pencil. I removed all the wood and the red looked beautiful. One problem...the red is basically a wax, and it bled with the finish. I ended up using orange grass-trimmer line. Worked great. See what your local landscaping store has. Mike

How about just flexing the crack and getting Titebond deep into the break? I used it on my guitar when the fingerboard lifted when I dropped it. I clamped it too tight and made the small piece of wood that is right under the truss rod cave in. I had to fix that too. Be careful. The glue has held for over 20 years because the break was clean.

Yeah. that what I'd do. Get a 8"x10" sheet of sandpaper and sand the ring.

I stained after I grain-filled. I stained the mahogany yellow after I grain-filled and I liked it. The filler made a nice contrast to the filled grain. I find the grain filler colors stain the mahogany with the dark oil used in the filler. If I wipe the grain filler off, I end up taking some of the stain too. Once the grain is filled I can apply all the stain I want to get it right. If you use epoxy to fill, then the wood won't be stained. That's just my way. All the help here is appreciated. Mike

Each wood piece seems to give slightly difference resistance when fretting. The barbs should dig in after a while. Now if the fit is too tight for the tang, it might not get back to flat If the bow is slight, I'd wait to see what the string pull does.

I opted for a volume for each pickup and a double-throw switch for each, where the tone was. Something different. All tones will be adjusted through the amp. The tone is always on 10 anyways. Thanks, Mike

I have a 1994 Epiphone SG. I am removing the pickups and trying a set of Stew Mac Golden Age on it. I am seriously considering removing the three-way switch and using the pickups independently. Each with its own vol. and tone. Would this be a good move? Do you see any drawbacks and/or advantages? Thanks for the help. Mike

My friend from my church gave me his Brazilian Rosewood Ramirez from 1960. He bought this new when he was a young Beatnik in the 60's. He asked me to see what I could do about the damage. The bridge broke and lifted up in many places. The fingerboard has a chuck missing. I took it to a local classical shop in Los Angeles called Candela's and the guy just about wet himself over this guitar. He said for him to restore it; to refinish and fix the cracks and splits, would be about $1,000-$1,200. There're giving me a two month time frame for the work. The deal is, my friend doesn't care how it's done. He's 78 and just wants his guitar no matter how it looks. It's a shame not to do it right. I'd like some more opinions. Does anyone know of a good reapir shop in Los Angeles that works on vintage classics? I offered to pay for this for my friend. He won't know I am though. He'll get mad if he finds out. Thanks, Mike

Thanks for the post. You motivated me to redo my Epi headstock. Great work. Mike Quick edit...Setch, where are you in London? I go often to Sevenoaks to visit in-laws and my wife and I just got a teeny-tiny flat in Four Elms, near Edenbridge, south of you.

That's a beauty brother!