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Michel Levasseur

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About Michel Levasseur

  • Birthday 06/17/1960

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    just signed in

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  • Location
    St-jean-des-Piles, Quebec, CA
  • Interests
    I have a shop which makes carbon fibers high-end

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  1. Yeah, and more then I thought, see, the G was dead so my first try and it worked and eliminated the buzzing, then D, and I played it for two weeks. And I started to find which strings were dead, well 1234 sounds wonderful now, 30% more volume, no kidding, the 5 and 6 sounds great but i need a change of strings so I'll try with these before. Also I'm changing the neck nut to graphite (compressed), that I make anyway and I have a carbon lubricant but a pencil rubbed on the wounded one's for any guitar will ease tuning and protect your strings About picture I just bought a camera but haven't still figured it out, but it's on my list!! Nice talking to you
  2. Hey, it took me only 2 1/2 months to build my 9th guitar in my life time, 63 old, two of them were classical and after a few years of making carbon fibers paddles. I reach up to some scrap pieces of wood and most importantly a Hurt-gen spruce brought by sergei lipovetchky after the war that I acquire in exchange of paddles in CA. the Topic is, WY do you have to bent the strings from the bridge saddle into a 5/8 in. tunnel and make the twist from the bottom. Well, I went by the back door, the total opposite, the bridge is pull from two hitch because you snag it with the locking nut and it's slightly below the saddle, so the end of the bridge, the nut in the middle and the saddle get an equal vibration and give a equal mid-range. I'm not saying it is good way to tie the whole six, but to bring your mid works wonderfully... I've tried to find if anyone has done it before and a luthier friend of mine told me of 12 holes in which he would crisscross but starting from behind. To end it stays tuned !
  3. I am not sure what you guys , most of you, anyway do with can spraying acrylic. I have 47 years of all kind of product, and in my enterprise of high-end canoe paddles all over the world to top athlete and the acrylic that I use is pure, colorless, and add 1/3 of xylene as a thinner for gun spraying; First just a fume, 15 min. a more glossy look, Half hours a full body coat but lay easy on the gun it's a runner. You can let it dry overnight, than, wet sand 320, 400, 600, and as the beginning a fume and one last glossy coat, You can buff it with a light compound, personally I find it dulls it a bit, the best is to rub it vigorously with ``chamois", soft leather or the palm of your hand, the thing is by creating heat by friction it sort of melt and fills micro area without the need of re-coating. At the end you get a durable UV protection that is no thicker than saran-wrap! :)
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