Saber
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Everything posted by Saber
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Try making it a jpg or a gif if you can. I'm only on dial-up!
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My sons new guitar...with pic...
Saber replied to Vendelcrow's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Nice clean job. I'm not a big Steinberger fan but I like the look of yours. -
Of course it's possible. If you post your circuit, I'll re-post it with the added switch. EDIT: ... if JohnnyG doesn't beat me to it.
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Don't confuse lively sound with sustain. A piece of granite would not resonate like a piece of wood but it would have loads of sustain because it would act as a solid anchor for the strings, but you wouldn't get the rich sound that vibrating wood adds to it, especially when played clean.
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I don't think having a piece of wood that resonates longer means that the guitar will have more sustain, though.
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The answer to both questions is: Nothing. You only use the power section of your amp since the Pod replaces the pre-amp section of your amp. Or just use a power amp instead.
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I'm no expert but installing inserts will result in removing more wood. I don't know if it will result in more wood being removed than when installing bolts through the neck, or how the resulting reduction in neck strength will compare to the other methods but I think it should be considered. Though the holes for the inserts don't go through the neck, isn't they're diameter larger than the holes required for through-the-neck bolts?
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So that's why he chopped down that cherry tree!
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A black chrome pickguard would be an interesting alternative if you could find one or figure out how to make one. They make 1/8" acrylic mirror that's tinted grey: http://www.bunkerplastics.com/pas_mp_clear.html It looks a lot like black chrome... but what the hell do I know.
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I think it looks even better than the original!
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You could always grind 2 or 3 of them off with a Dremel.
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I've heard something of that sort before about hi-fidelity cables but never knew why. How does the amount of oxygen in the cable affect it other than eventually corroding the copper?
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Women generally have smaller hands so a 7-string might not be the best idea unless you know for sure that she can handle it.
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Transtube is a Peavey trademark. Marshall's is Valvestate if I'm not mistaken.
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I used round files to shape the inlays down to the scallop shape. Then I sanded it with finer and finer grits up to 1500 though I would have gone to 2000 if I had some at the time. Then I buffed it by hand using Brasso. It might not be the ideal way but the final results are quite good.
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Just an observation, upon close examination of a MOP sharktooth-inlayed fretboard with very worn frets, the inlays were very scratched at a few places but it was not very noticeable. I imagine that the same scratches on acrylic mirror inlays would be more visible, but it wouldn't be so bad on acrylic inlays with something other than a mirror surface underneath. The presence of the strings also distracts from any imperfections, but my experience is very limited.
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First of all I'm a novice compared to Clavin and many others on this board so just to see our names in the same sentence is quite an honor for me. I've only inlaid on a scalloped fretboard so the strings never come in contact with the inlays. I better let the pros answer the rest.
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I'm not an engineer but I believe most of what you're saying. The di-electric properties of the cable's insulation will determine how much treble loss the cable has since thicker and better quality insulation between the wire and the shield will have less capacitance to by-pass the highs. This is especially important between the guitar and the amp input since we're dealing with relatively high impedances, though less critical with active pickups.
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The same pickups can be used for righties and lefties with maybe 1 exception: single coil pickups with staggered poles. Some have reverse-staggered poles for lefties. This doesn't apply to the pickups you're using, though.
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I don't have any problem with scratches but that's simply because my fretboard is scalloped so the strings never come in contact with the inlays. Only the pads of my fingers occasionally rub against them a bit when I do large bends since the scalloping is not very deep, so they only get a bit dirty. If there were small scratches, they wouldn't be very noticeable with the strings passing over but it's hard to say how a non-scalloped fretboard would end up. The request is flattering but since this is my only experience with inlaying, I wouldn't feel too confident about not screwing up at this point in time... especially on someone else's guitar.
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The piezo-electric principle is that a crystal will generate a voltage if pressure is applied to it. Vibrating it will produce an electrical signal equivalent to the vibration's frequency. The inverse is also true so that applying a voltage signal to the crystal will make it vibrate, and that's how some tweeters (and beepers or buzzers) are made. This is what the actual element usually looks like: http://www.musiklab.dk/stringamp/techdiy.html
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If you consider that you have both the fingerboard radius and the scallop radii going across each other, I think a routing jig would be a very complex thing to make. But your suggestion of using some kind of fence or guide to avoid scratching the frets makes sense. When I scalloped mine, I held a small metal scraper against the side of a fret when I had to get close to it with my 1/2" round file.
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It would sound very bright. If that's the sound you want then fine. If you want it to sound like having a volume control in the circuit set to 10 without actually having a volume pot, you can simply add a 250K ( or 500K or 1M depending how bright you want it) resistor across the output jack to simulate the effect of a volume pot.
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I think it makes perfect sense to make the right radius block for each fret if you're planning on scalloping a lot of necks. It would give you quick easy way to get nice uniformly graduated scallops. The only thing to watch out for is that, unlike the upper frets where you can use a full circular dowel without touching the frets, the lower frets would have to have "dowels" that are cut off at the sides or else the dowels radius would go through the metal fret.
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John McLaughlin's first scalloped guitar was an acoustic guitar that he used in Shakti. I see no reason not to do it if it's used for lead. Barre chords should not be a problem if you use proper playing technique on a properly set up guitar. If it hurts, you're squeezing your neck too hard. In fact, the best way to practise not squeezing the neck is by playing barre chords without using your thumb. Just hold the guitar's body against yours and apply finger pressure without using your thumb (just for practising of course).
