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monkyboy777

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Everything posted by monkyboy777

  1. monkyboy777
    Up late and really bored....
  2. monkyboy777
    Not sure what the radius is...gonna e-mail them and see if I get an answer. 14" or higher would be ideal for me. I am not sure if they are direct replacements for the Ibanez Lo Pro bridge, although the specs match up. Looks very close to the TRS bridge that Ibanez uses. They also have a 43mm nut that is available, which is the same size as the Jem. I would like to use the Lo Pro from Ibanez (I believe that it is machined by Gotoh), but they are just a little expensive for me right now The one advantage that I see is the it can be recessed, plus I like the way the saddles are set up with the string lock screw on the back of the saddle (easier to get to). I think Jackson has used this bridge on some of their models.
  3. monkyboy777
    I was looking at the Low-Pro version, (Low_Pro from guitarpartsdepot.com). It is "licensed" under Floyd Rose patents, so I am not sure who actually makes it. Thank you everyone for your time
  4. monkyboy777
    Hello, On the Floyd Rose system, does anyone have any information as to how far from the nut the mounting screws have to be set? Unfortunately, I no longer have any Floyd guitars to measure from. Also, is there any difference in whether the system is recessed or top mounted (inertia block length, namely)? Thanks for any info.
  5. monkyboy777
    guitarfrenzy, More power to you if you can use a handplane. I've got a nice one that I thought I would practice with for awhile, with not so good results. I'll keep trying.
  6. monkyboy777
    johnuk, There are wood suppliers nearby, but they won't plane, join, etc. They will rough cut a length for you, but that's it. There is a supplier some 40 miles away that I have yet to contact. I have discovered that the method that I did use worked fine. I just set the fence on my table saw (10" Ryobi with a good fence) to take off maybe 3 or 4mm then lightly sanded the edges. After routing the body shape, spindle sanding the sides clean and sanding the front and back with 150 grit, the joint is invisible. I am very happy with the results. I am still going to look into a jointer and have hit all the pawn shops with no luck. Craftsman had a 4' jointer for @ $140, but it appears it is no longer available. Thanks everyone.
  7. monkyboy777
    Thank you for the input everybody...guess I'll save my money and get a jointer.
  8. monkyboy777
    Hello, Been watching these forums for awhile and have decided to go ahead and dive into building. I already have 2 bodies started ( RG copies: 1 mahogany and 1 paduak) and hopefully, time allowing, will start on the necks this weekend. Here is my question....when glueing body woods, has anyone used a finishing blade to get a smooth edge for joining? I used a regular stock blade and then lightly sanded before glueing the 2 bodies that I have. They look okay, but I am aware that running the blanks through a jointer is the best alternative. However, I am looking for possibly a less expensive alternative. Any info would be appreciated. P.S. This forum is definately the best of its kind...alot of great stuff here.
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