ibnaz5150

hello folks...I'm getting ready to build an ibanez body. I want to route a Rg direct mount type hum without the ring of course. You see this route on their prestige RG's. My dilemma is the corners on this route is pretty tight..I'd guess at 3/16's. What bit could I use to accomplish this??? To my knowledge the smallest bit is 1/4 inch and that's without a bearing. It would be nice to make a template and use a bearing bit if possible. Any ideas or input will be greatly appreciated! Thanks Tom

Thanks for the info Rich! I plan on getting stewmac's scale rule & fret slotting rule.Ofcourse will need a caul, radius blocks,fret tools etc. etc..All that good stuff you can't find at your local hardware store. My problem is I'm spoiled with tools. I hate using or refuse to use garbage tools. The better tool not only last longer but generally does a better job! I'm also a fan of gadgets and jigs making the job faster. Cheers Tom

Thanks for the info brother. I'm still researching with this whole process. Have my body wood,ibanez template, 3 books and ofcourse this forum. I decided to take on the neck as well since very few next to none will make a custom ibanez neck. Only downfall is more tools needed which slows things down...upside is I'll have em forever and most likely use them over and over. I'll just pick away here and there as I go along.

I know how critical measurements are in instrument making. So my burning question is.where does one find a rule to lay out increments of a thousand of an inch???For example how to I measure .765 or.062. I'm sure your aware most of the hardware is measured this way. I know a digital caliper would work but geez they're not cheap. What's your method of converting these measurements to standard measuring rules in 1/64's?

Thanks for the post Drak........I've been building them for some years now. Would'nt really call it building since warmoth did all the work. I just focused in finishing and constructing it. It's funny ...I have a great woodworking back ground and I could build ya cabinet,end table etc etc. However this is a whole new realm if you will to what I know. I've read Melvyn Hiscocks book and another by Tom Hirst. Great info yet it's time to dig in and get the experience. I'm not rushing this by any means. I actually picked out the wood in May and managed to get the pieces glued up. The blanks and templates been sitting there since then waitng patiently. I'm sure I'll face some pitfalls,road blocks etc etc but this is how we learn. I applaud this site emmencly for it's support and info . I'm sure to make a contribution soon since I have a feeling I'll be on here a bit once I dig in. Cheers Tom

Very interesting chunkielad... Thanks for the post! You got me thinking for sure. 45 degree for the scarf? Not too worried about cosmetics cuz this would be tucked away in the neck pocket.

From the center to the heel it measures 3". Ibanez rg's,jems use a curved or rounded heel joint. It's not squared off like a fender where it measures 3" on each side.it's roughly 2 1/4" on the bass side going to 3" center and down to 1 3/4" on the treble side. no room to play there! musikraft interestingly has some different options ....most likely would suit my needs...however I know they won't do an angled headstock.options are minimal far as finding someone to make a ibanez replacement neck. most in the bizz cater to fender. don't get me wrong I can find them all day on ebay....yet the're used and not the most desirable wood selection like on most stock instruments. I give ya much credit tackling a neck. The fretting frightens me and I do believe requires some costly tools....most essential tool needed would be experience!

I measured the template necks. I came up with 18-7/16" for the fender and 19-1/2" for the ibanez. That being the case the warmoth neck is out of the equasion...unless I move the bridge an inch toward the bottom of the body. warmoth keeps that 18-7/16 measurement(heel to nut) and only extends the fingerboard to gain the 2 frets.

Thanks for the post.......what throws me a loop is ibanez uses a 24 fret neck. Their fingerboard overhangs the heel roughly a 1/4" inch. Now my plan was to use a warmoth 24 fret extension neck.....think I'd be in trouble there since they're extending the fingerboard only...where it overhangs the heel by a inch!!! May have a quick solution....have ed roman make me one. Definitly not ready for neck work!...tools and lack of experience!

hello folks......I'm new to building so bere with me! I have my wood (body blanks) all ready to route. My plan was to use a warmoth neck. I ordered 2 template kits (ibanez Rg, & a strat). I knew going into this that the warmoth heel is rounded . The ibanez neck pocket is square at the heel like a tele. So I figured I'd use the strat template for the neck pocket to compensate the fit. My goal here is to make a ibanez body.I was getting ready to get my router out when it dawned on me.....geeeez the ibanez neck is longer. Now I know ibanez and fender both use the 25 1/2 scale length. So my burning question is...can I use a warmoth neck on my ibanez project??? Something tells me I'd have to move the bridge location...yes??? That would suck since I have a template with everything lined up already. Pease help! Thanks Tom

keep in mind that sparkly factory finish you have on there is roughly 15+ coats . You add to this and your adding weight plus pending what you use can defintely dull your instruments tone. I would use some chemical stripper and strip her down. Use waterbase lacquer....stewmac.com makes a brushable mix if you don't own any spray equipment. They also have a quick reference finish schedule to give you an idea what your up against. I recommned the waterbase lacquer.easy to work with with less fumes to worry about!

The foam pads do pretty well but not as well as a pedistal buff. I'm so picky it drove to buy one! Everyone that's seen my buffs from a foam pad thought they were factory..then again there's always me knowing what's there. Your not going to get a factory finish with those foams.Bottom line is it's what pleases your eye that matters.Just givin ya a heads up as to what to expect.

Not this one. It hasn't been touched - that's just the clearcoat straight off the gun. The plan is to hang it for at least 30 days, wet sand up to 2000 grit, then buff with fine compound and swirl remover. Mike [/quote Hey Mike....you've done a fine job to this point ! If I can give ya any advice here it is....get access to a pedistal buffer! You've come this far and I'm sure you want super results at the buff stage.I've used every method out there...hand,car buffers,random orbital pads and foam pads through stewmac. If your going for a high gloss ..swirl marks will haunt you with those methods. Granted you can only catch them in angled lighting. I'm so fussy when it comes to this. The best results I've got without a pedistal buffer would be the foam pads from stewmac....however nothing beats a pedistal buffer!

scary thing visioning myself with a router on a 500.00 body.carved top to add extra stress. Never been there. I'd probably attempt it on a flat top but man...what's the trick with the carved top??? How would the template sit flat let alone the router to complete the work? I've made a bunch of furniture over the years . Used a router table for that...but were talkin running straight boards on a table..much different than this. One slip of the template and bammm ...it's done! I emailed schaller.waiting on them. Called floydrose direct.no luck there although they were very helpful! No hartails for me.I prefer the double locking floaters.....

Thanks for the reply Mike....already been there ...using that for my reference guide. It's the actual scahller route I'm after. Be nice if I had a warmoth body here with that route to measure. Last thing I want is a sloppy fit....If it's the other way(tight) no prob I can mod to fit. All in all I want to be sure it will function and look well before I go ahead and order. It's become a real quest the past few days!

Anyone have the measurements for this route???? Can't seem to find any routing info for this bridge! My dilemma is I have a original lo pro floyd and I'm curious if the schaller route will fit. Reason being warmoth offers this route yet they will not supply me the measurements...wonderful huh! Any help appreciated! Thanx Tom

Don't forget tru-oil......inexpensive and easy to use!

whoops!.don't know what you have on your end.seems I mashed em all on there........won't do that again!

Here's a few.sorry for the size .i'll post others following this ...having probs adding them all to this post.

Freagin gorgeous Mike! I see you use the ole pipe method to hold your work...I love it.I can turn my work like a chicken on a rotisarrie! I LOL when I saw the spray booth in the photo.....very similar if not exact to what I use. I've recently played with waterbase lacquer which abled me to shoot in the cellar during the winter months. used a portable heater to acclimate my temps. Only downfall I see with the waterbase lac is it seems to be a softer finish than nitro.BTW don't fool with nitro without an explosin fan........scary scary !...how the heck do ya attach a pix on here??? I'd be glad to share some of my finishing work.

Thanks much for your input Mike! I'm going for the same plan you went with. For the money I think the VIP body is the way to go....3/4 book matched top...carved to boot...contoured heel...hollow option. I'm not a big fan of set necks or neck through.... limited setup and if she warps.....well your done! I'll keep my quest going for specs and info to aid my confidence cuz it sounds like I'm going to have to dive into this myself in order to please my needs....should be satsifying when done...however could be devastating if I screw up!.Nothing ventured nothin gained. BTW...great site here I'll have to say!!! Geeeez Mike....check this out...1st search and bingo... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:PRS_headstock.svg

Actually, if it's too close of a copy they won't do it, even if you supply the diagram. I gave them a PRS layout and it was vetoed by Mr. Warmoth himself. Thanks - yes, I did my own abalone inlay - my first attempt at doing inlay work. edit: It's not that difficult to cut your own - just establish your center line and carefully copy your layout onto the paddlehead. Double-check your dimensions off the line to make sure it's centered/aligned/symmetrical before you start cutting. I used a coping saw and cleaned it up with a rasp and sandpaper. Much easier if you have a bandsaw or jigsaw handy. Wow!.I just spoke with a warmoth sales rep in regards to this yesterday. Only thing he implied was they can't do it without an actual diagram that I made. Man I hate to bash warmoth here cuz I truly love their craftsmanship but that's BS with a cap B! If that's the case where they can't do it for licensing reason then geez simply tell me so and don't send me on a wild goose hunt! You'd also think they could help me out with specs on the schaller route they offer. Afterall I would spending 800.00 and up on this new project..not to mention the thousands I spent before!I've bought quite a few necks and bodies through them over the years. One thing for certain I learned through all of it is they really don't sway from their options! If they do or will for that matter it will cost you dearly!!! I'm willing to do the headstock myself.....however I'll need a template for reference and confidence. Would'nt you have to have a picture where the camera angle was straight on??? My guess would be yes since that could screw up your measurments! How crucial is the tuner placement...do they have to be placed accurately or is their room for play? You can see some definite concern on my end where I'd need assurance. Last thing I want and dread happening is botching a 300.00 and up neck.

Warmoth will not do a custom headstock for you if your design is a copy of PRS (or any other patented shape that they're not licensed for). They will sell you a paddlehead neck, and you can cut out whatever headstock shape you want - which is what I ended up doing: Mike Thanx Mike.........Warmoth will do the headstock long as you supply the diagram of the so called custom work. They just can't whoop up a prs headstock for licensed reasons.Again they'do anything you want long as you supply the plans...and ofcourse pay them the extra custom expense. BTW....very nice headstock! Did you do the pearl inlay yourself??

Not to knock schaller but in my opinion the original floyd is better...now the lo pro ....better yet! I need the prs headstock diagram still as a reference. I don't have the tools or experience to conquer it myself. That being the case I have to have an exact diagram of my headstock design,tuner placement etc. so warmoth can perform the task. Anybody out there with some help???

Thanx for the reply..........already been there! I'm using their info for a comparison actually. I need the schaller route specs to compare if it ill be a good fit.