Prostheta

I agree with the press side of this as there's no real learning curve. If you want the visceral feedback of hammering then put up a fence, or go kill a neighbourhood chav.

Use the search function as this has been done to death a million times before. The difference is in apparent volume, but the size and dynamic response of speakers comes into play a lot also. Your mileage - as always - will vary whatever you choose.

Here are some more pics so you've got an idea of how the edge varies....

top edge

inside the cutaways

bottom edge

strap button

Ugh. Looks like I need to do a full teardown and cleanup on my Iby. Funny how flash photography makes everything look 10x worse!

Definitely - I would probably approach it with my head before putting hell to wood :-D

My Ibanez S1640FM is just over 1/2" thick at the rear button and horns, and widens in the recesses....

I realise the shape is computer carved, but as a CAD technician I kind of wonder what the basis behind the radii are around the body....it could be as simple as a flattened football (rugby ball to us English!) or a number of radii....I'd love to know the answer to that one....and then to be able to build a non-duplicarver jig for it :-D

Excellent! The constant radius carve reminds me a lot of my Ibanez S1640FM which is quite lightweight, plus quite thin looking/feeling. Kind of like comparing RG thickness to Blackmachine thickness...!!

Great work man. Isn't the body hellaciously thick? I presume some heavy body contouring is in order there!

I could do it in a couple of hours. Wouldn't be a top class job though. Depends who you take it to, how busy they are and how much care they take.

Thanks man. I've put it onto a back burner for a bit until I refit the workshop. I usually step back from projects to make sure my progress is solid and correct. That and my spindle sander went back to the retailer for a warranty repair :-D

That's exactly how i'm making my BIG router jig! I'm using the rectangular cold extruded iron bars for the horizontal and round tubes for the vertical instead of the U sections (they had a bit too much play).

Isn't B&Q novel to improvise from? The electrical dept. had round black ABS conduit which i'm sure would work nicely as an insert for top mount jacks a la the Ibanez' S I have....

Was the maple ready cut or did you have to do that yourself?

It's similar to Westone....even though it isn't, it might be the one you're thinking it is.... :-D

Hmmm. I think as good a Taylor acoustic as you can afford would be fitting :-D

I think there has to be a lot of sarcasm in there man. I haven't really gone out of my way to see proof of sarcastic concept however! An acoustic V must be the most pointless thing ever unless you want to play in the classical stance all of the time of course :-D

An acoustic V? hahaha

Posh git :-D I use Painshop Pro, when it works...hahaha...

"Should"? It's a subjective matter!

I would go small, say 1/4"?

I use a chamfer bit on a router to rough in the angle, then use a spokeshave and surform to shape, then a spindle sander to round and finally a long strip of 80 grit using a pull-pull method with both hands and the neck's back facing upwards. Rounds it off a treat!

Oh yeah - last piece of important information:

Ed Roman talks out of his filthy ass.

Other than that, you're on life's right road man!

I think that you need to consider playability over tone. For example - I have two ESP Explorers, one of which is set up for standard tuning and the other set up for heavy top/light bottom in open C - the lower strings require higher gauges to compensate for lower tuning whereas the top three strings are in standard tuning, except B (2nd) is tuned up a semitone to C.

Looks like a lassoed area, a bit of gamma to increase contrast and colorising.

...l.ike Tru-oil, which was designed for gunstock finishing....there are plenty of threads on here referring to Tru-oil finishing. I believe the consensus is to whang on as much as the wood will take (LOTS!) for the first coat and after that, thin coats. Usual tack rag prep applies etc....

Sorry to paraphrase your post Stiggz man!

If you look online for guitar gauge calculators, you can roughly approximate your overall tension from the tuning, gauges and scale length. If you have a guitar which you like the feel of, stick to that. Hell, metal comes from your playing and your amp - not from high string gauges!

I was going to have our car resprayed gold, and then given a serious dark cherry red kandy over the top, but I couldn't convince my wonderful wife of such a thing. As it turned out, we could have gone that far but hey - no regrets in life man!

Your bike frame looks awesome...how does the colour look under bright light considering it's silver base? This is why we were going gold first....I wish HOK jobs weren't so expensive.

</cry cry cry>

It's possible. You might find it difficult to get a flat clearcoat over the top as the paint in the engraved parts will be thick, and move over time. I guess if the engraving was less than a millimetre deep you might get away with it, but same as metallics I'm not sure if you are able to sand glow in the dark paints as they probably have coarse grains in a paint suspension, same as the flakes in metallics.

Anyone else?

Man, that's like an amp where knobs go on vacation.

Knobland on the subcontinent of Dimetania.

Does that mean you were a Friends addict or comatose?

Or are you merely trying to make a distinction between the two?