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Unrealize

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Posts posted by Unrealize

  1. I guess it would be possible, but with hand tools..?

    What kind of tools would be needed for this. I have some fine blades from StewMac, but something tells me that even the extra fine blade is too rough for this one.

    I probably shouldn't even think about it, but still, I can't help for it.

    The design is 4 cm tall, and on this picture it should be at approx 200%

    So, any encouraging words and hints..?

    How should I go about doing this...?

    20-trusscover-designtest.jpg

  2. Hey man! Looks great.

    I was beginning to thing that you might have lost the spirit, since I didn't hear anything for a long time.

    Good to see that your back on track again. I have come a lot closer to the end on my neck, not as clean and nice as yours at all,

    but considering I haven't touched a woodworking tool for more than ten years before I started this project, I'm pretty happy with it,

    and I learned so damn much!

    Keep at it man, remember only quitters quit. You have a really excellent piece of woodwork there, it would be a shame if it were laid to waste...

    Unrealize

  3. wife has had me busy doing house maintenance

    I know the feeling buddy.. hehe..

    It looks really awesome.

    I'm thinking about building a case for my explorer, so a tutorial would be nice, I second that.

    On the other hand, there are some readymade cases that are really cheap out there. It depends on how

    one would make the case, to make it a little unique, if not, then I don't think it is worth the hazzle...

    Cheers!

  4. Ok, so here it is.

    I guess it's an ebony board, right? I take my boards to 1200 grit.

    That's an ebony board, correct. I was lucky to get a very nice and dark board. I was afraid that I had to stain it, the first board that I got I would have had to stain, but I messed it up in other ways, so I had to order a new one. Used epoxy to fill the gaps too, so I'll go slow with it then. I waited more than 24 hours before starting to work on it, so it should be fully cured. I'm unsure if I'm going to try to fill the tiny gaps that are in the inlay now, but at the same time it agitates me that they are there.. hehe..

    We'll I'll try to sand it some more, and then try to fit in some epoxy here and there..

  5. Ok, so here it is.

    The photo is not so good tho.

    19-star-inlay-finished.jpg

    It will look neater when I get the frets on the board of course, so all in all I'm pleased with it.

    I probably shouldn't have started out with such a complex shape, but I'm making my 'dream' guitar, so I had to try.

    I see some small holes in the filler here and there, I actually only saw 2 before I took the photo, so I'm unsure if I should care about it,

    I guess it is possible to add some more filler and sand it down, but I'm afrait to mess it up more than it is.

    About sanding, I have started to sand the fretboard, getting a 16" radius, but since I have no experience, I'm unsure how much to sand on every grit.

    To me it looks fine, but I doubt that it is, but I have nothing to compare with, so I don't know when every grit is 'finished'.

    Should I sand every grit for about 5 mins, 10, 30, no idea. It feels nice and smooth now, but I only sanded to about 320 grit now, I know I gotta go higher, but how high should I go..?

    Another thing, it is best to sand the board completely before fretting, right..?

    thanks a lot!!

    And happy new year btw.. :D

  6. Haha, that's great, Powerslave is one of Maiden's best albums in my opinion.

    For the headstock, go with the 'R' that Derek Riggs always signs his paintings with!! (joking of course).

    I'm actually still wondering what I'm going to use for my headstock too... :D

    I'm sure it will turn out for the best in the end!!

    (can't wait to get home from work and sand down the glue on my latest inlay...)

  7. Keep at it.

    I just glued in my star inlay for the third time today. I'll see tomorrow if it turns out ok.. hehe..

    It looks good, funny that we should do the same design, I wouldn't think that it was that 'typical'.

    I'm not sure when I'll do my Ra design, probably have to finish the first guitar before I start a second one, right..?

    Cheers, and happy new year!!

  8. I'm having a little issue with this one too, I'm in Norway, and StewMac don't send their stain overseas. I'm sure I can get something useful

    in shops here, but I wouldn't know what to look for, cause we don't use the terms stain or dye here.

    We have something called beis that is used to color wood, but leave the figure of the wood. I think that it is generally used on houses tho...

    Could someone give me more of a hint on what stain and dye really is?

    Perhaps some of the swedes here could help me out, as we probably have some very similar products...

    thanks.

  9. But what happens if you dont cut it EXACTLY as per the paper outline, when cutting the pearl?? Then you have a hole in the fretboard which doesnt match?

    Why not just scribe around the finish pearl piece, ensuring the fretboard cutout can be IDENTICAL??

    Well, it might be a little design related if it would be a good practice or not, but as I have it now, the pearl is ligned up nicely to the print, and then while routing, just take it slow, and testfit as I go. I don't see a reason why it should be less accurate than scribing by hand...

  10. When I was cutting my pearl, I found that for me, the easies was really just to print the design on paper, and use spray glue to put it on the pearl, and then cut it... I think it worked just fine, and now I was thinking perhaps I could apply the same technique when routing the fingerboard? Perhaps I would set the paper on fire, hehe...

    Well, it is just a thought, but it would seem like a way easier method of transferring the design to the fingerboard, rather than to scribe it on.

    Alright, just airing an idea here...

    Cheers!!

  11. Also if you're single you might not be getting any "action" for a while 'cause your forearms will be a bit sore.

    Well, you won't get any if your'e in a relationship either. The time you spend doing (!) the guitar instead of treating your better half will suffer this. And your arms will still be sore, so there you go.. :D

    I think it looks good so far. Bummer with the inside cavity, but it's not gonna show anyways, so not too bad...

    Keep on it!

  12. Sort of reminds me of what someone said about dealing with how to recover from hitting the wrong note in a song. Do it a couple more times and everyone will think its jazz! :D

    I also heard of this one, hehe, a guy played the wrong note on his guitar, and thought let's do the same until the verse is finished, and then a guy in the audience went like: "Hey, that guy played the same mistake three times!!!!"

    Maybe jazz makes it easier to hide... lol

  13. Hey...

    Did some stupid things to my fretboard today, as I was trying to thickness it slightly, at the same time as sanding the inlay flush...

    I'm not going to go into details about what I did wrong, I know, and learned from it.

    It ended with me having to sand away the entire inlay to get it level again, and now I'm left with a fretboard that is about 4mm thick. Can I still use it, or is it too thin now? I just want to ask before I start doing too much work with it again, like routing a new inlay cavity and so on... So, 4mm thick fretboard blank, is it doable? I'm going for 16" radius on it, so I don't think that it will turn out too bad, but will it be strong enough against the trussrod and so on..?

    thank you!!

  14. Hey there..

    I was told that one does not need to shield the electronics and pup cavities when using EMG active pups.

    Is this correct..? I was not told by a very reliable source, so I wanted to make sure it is this way or the other..

    Thank you so much guys, I wouldn't have gotten this far without your help!!

    Cheers!

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