Page_Master

i am 17.

hi there capacitors are quite easy to get. as for best brands, i can truly say i have never seen a brand name capacitor. most of the time they are made in china or taiwan or where ever else they make capacitors. and don't buy them off the net, that would be waste of time and money. they only cost like less then a buck. check out your local Tandy or Radio Shack or Jay Car or what ever the electronic component shops are in your area. or look for one in your phone book or something. if they have plenty of them in Brisbane, Australia, they must have plenty of them where you're at. i hope this helps. Page.

ok then! thanx for the replies dude, it really helps. i have my wood. i still have to glue them together as it is a 3 piece neck. i am just doing my home work before i do the wrong thing. and yes, i am talking about the hot-rod truss rods as well (i should have mentioned it first, but you people are so smart, i don't need too. ) i have heard good things about them. besides, in Aus a double action Truss rod cost AU$40. and i don't even know what brand that is. Cheerz! Page.

hello can someone tell me how the truss rod channel for a double action trus rod is done? [i know the channel it is done with a router, i am asking which way it is done ] is it done where there is a wider channel for the nuts so they can fit, and a smaller channel where the rods go through - so it can be tighten together or stretched. isn't this the way a single action truss rod works? or is it just a channel where it routed all the same width so the truss rod simply sits inside the neck. thanx. Page.

hello in response to death metal tonage, i am one step ahead of you there dude. i have 1 EMG 81 sitting in its box ready to be inserted in the bridge. [in about 4 months time] yup, only one pick up in the bridge. i want as much wood on the axe as possible. and i have to reitterate the neck. i have not actually glued the neck together yet. but i might swap the piece of wenge to a piece of bubinga that i should hopefully get tomorrow. it will be 3 pieces of wood glued like: maple-bubinga-maple - you got that part. so the grains are forming that of a quarter-sawn cut neck. plus the headstock is angled. that is going to be one piece. not a piece that is cut off, turned around then re-joined like the typical peg heads. --> the mothod used by Gibson, Ibanez and so on. that's what i meant, 1 piece neck & headstock. Cheerz! Page.

hi i think bolt-ons are so under-rated. they rule. especially all access neck joints found on all good ibanez guitars. they have a unique sound to them which i like. kinda bright and crystal like. personally i don't like set-necks. i just don't like the fact that it is glued on. my uncle dropped his Gibson Les Paul studio head first, snapped the neck by the joint. it was terrible. he has a Korina Telecaster with EMG 81's. that has been dropped neck first on plenty of occasions. it still rocks out the tunes. bolt on it is. they feel more stable to me. that's just my opinion. Page.

hey man i am pretty much in the same boat as you are. may be a bit further. this is what i did. i templated my friends Ibanez RG 470 on to some cardboard. body and headstock. for the headstock i reversed it, i think it looks better. than i added some cuts and points to the headstock pretty much creating my own original headstock. the body horns are bit longer too. i wanted a baritone scale with 26 frets. to do this i used a program called winfret. i used the length of the fret board and knowing where to connect it on to the body, i had the neck pocket dimensions at this stage. the fret board made 21 inches, so then 6 inches up the body would be where the bridge is. with bridge to neck = 27" scale = baritone. with all the accurate dimensions, i then went about making templates on to MDF. so far i have the body, the fret board, and the headstock. next i will make another template of the body with pick up routing, neck joint routing, electronic holes, bridge holes, and another of the neck with fret board connected, with the headstock on a 13 degree angle. yes i am creating a peghead. this is the wood i am using: Body: 2 piece Honduran Mahogany Neck: 3 piece Rock Maple-Wenge-Rock Maple - Quarter-sawn 1 piece Neck Fret Board: African Ebony hopefull this will create a death metal machine guitar. if you don't know what the hell i am going on about. you should do some more homework. i have been studying this stuff for about 2 months straight now. it won't take long if you are obsessed with it like me. i hope this helps or inspires you with ideas. Page.

hello there hey GhesQi J, i just want to say your Blue and White is a fine piece of craftmanship, and has inspired me to make own axe. i found your website very informative. i know this has nothing to do with the topic, i am just admiring your work. Page.

cheers dudes this is exactly what i wanted. a template would have made my life easier but this is pretty much all i need. the measurements. thanx again. Page.

hi there thanx for the help dudes. i was thinking that it would work like that. what i wasn't sure about was, do i connect it to the positive, or negative wires. i wanted to save trial and error. and Brian, i am the dude that told you about that missing link in Gallery 2. thanx for the reply. Page.

hey dudes what about Makita and Hitachi? i found Ryobi a cheap brand too, but i have seen other brands that are heaps cheaper then that. Ryobi are midranged compared to brands like Arlec or Warrior or Black & Decker. [do these brands exist in the stares?] well they do in Australia. Page

hello everybody can anyone give me a DXF file w/ 1:1 scale of a template of a humbucker that is print ready? thanx! Page.

hi there i am new here. from the responses i have already read in this forum, it is very responsive and considerate. i am also a member at the guitarbuild.com forum, however i do not find them in the least bit informative and helpful. by the looks of things, i would rate this forum better than guitarbuild.com already. on to my topic. i would like to install a killswitch and an LED w/ my pick up, 1 EMG 81 in the bridge position with 1 vol and 1 tone. so where abouts do i add the killswitch and an LED in the wiring you reckon? now an LED might seem strange in the electronics of a guitar, but when you think about it, i mean all home appliance and electricals have em, why not install one in your guitar! it came to mind when i was playing my PlayStation 2, i liked it how the LED where so bright in dark, then i thought, hey that would look cool on a guitar - the you could even see it in the dark. see my guitar is on, see my guitar is off, a bit like my PlayStation 2. i should have mentioned first that i want the LED to be connected with the pickup, so when the killswitch is on the LED turns on and accordingly, when the killswitch is off the LED goes off. on the guitar body, the pots will not be visible, it will only be a killswitch and an LED on the guitar face. the pots will be inside the electronic cavity, connect to a perspex bracket. so i wanted to be a little original, although the idea was thought of by my friend, the LED was my idea. thanx for reading. Page.