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I want to see it!
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Very nice, clean looking. But I think this should have been posted in the progress and finished thread.
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Red! I want red, there's no substitute for red.
Red! Paint it red, green ain't mean compared to red.
Sweet!
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Very nice and mucho tone i'm sure.
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Would this type of saddle/bridge work?
This should work for your pickup.
If this bridge works a little drop of CA glue would hold it in place.
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ohh ****, sorry, i didnt mean to post multiple threads, im a noob here, id like if the replies could be posted here
Start with reading the forum rules (*language*) and then maybe some of the tutorials on projectguitar.com. The home page has lots of tutorials listed. Also try reading "Make Your Own Electric Guitar by Melvyn Hiscock,"
After you do some reading settle on a style you want. Maybe your own maybe some thing else. What tools do you have and how are you at using them?
When you settle on a design ( Phish's guitar was built by Paul Languedoc . I couldn't find out much about his axes) you need to start with what type of wood of you want to use. In this case the guitar is koa. Not to discourage you, but koa is fairly expensive (or a lot depending on your finances) and is not something to learn how to build with.
Most here would suggest something like poplar or alder which is less expensive.
Read through the form as well as the others I suggested and you'll soon find and answer
Good luck and welcome to the forum. This is a place where questions are welcomed.
I wish I could give you an easy answer to you question. I am sure you will get more answers later from others.
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Whoa, seriously cool. I especially like the first one. The one with a mirrored image.
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Trying to picture my old one in my mind. Seems OK to me, but I never measured the one in my Gibson Tennessean.
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Try it and see. That is what it is all about. IMHO the only thing that the upper horn is used for is to balance the the guitar while playing standing, so it is not too neck heavy. The lower horn is just asthetics and balance. I would build it without the horns. Again just MHO. The old lutes had a similar design, so it is some what a proven design.
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Any nut material will work with the right cutting tool, but I don't think your idea will work well. I do not believe that the strings will cut most material made for nuts, especially the unwound strings. The strings are not designed for cutting and if the wound strings do cut it will take a long time.
If you can't buy expensive nut files you could try a set of inexpensive needle files (sold at most hardware stores). I used them for a long time untill I purchased the right files.
I just had to take my time and measure often while trying to keep the slots the right size.
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I don't know about the switch, but the Grovers are nice.
The moderators are asking people to use the EDIT button instead of a new post when the posts are back to back. It is part of the new rules. Just a reminder.
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I don't imagine the inlay will get in the way.
You won't get many reply's here. The main "Inlay and Finishing chat" is where you should post this. You might ask one of the mods to move it to the correct thread via PM or Email.
Oh yeah! welcome to the PG forum.
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89 files are you planning on a large prison break or somthing?
I have no more than 30 or so, and I though that was excessive.
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PS: Where is the bass player rockin' dude??
I didn't think bass players rocked...I thought they just "sat in the pocket".
Every bass player I've played with has (1) had his feet nailed to the floor, and (2) wished for a better drummer.
Ummm! I resemble that remark, except I "stand" in the pocket, I try to move every minute or so.
I have only found two or three drummers that I like to play with out of maybe 30.
So let's see that fretless BP.
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Can you see the "Edit tag"?
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Welcome to the PG forum. I think putting a hologram in the finish is a good idea. Read through some of the tutorials on the main site Here.
I believe there is a lot of knowledge that will help you on your project. Good luck.
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That is a sweet bass. Thanks for the good link. I'm drooling all over my keyboard.
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www, the only reason i've encountered the need to take off all the strings was to do a through cleaning, or reset a bolt on neck. that's about it.
I would agree.
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Can't help you with the guitar tuners. I bought a set of bass tuners and a bridge and I think the quality vs. price is second to none.
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Tastefully done. Looks very clean and the color is fantastic. Good job.
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That is a good reason. I do remember my old Aria Pro saddle moving once after bending hard. Who wudda thunk?
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I was going to say the Saga kit from UniversalJems.com, but they are not listed anymore.
Not quite up to Warmoths specs, but similar and much less expensive.
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Acrylic fretboard could work, but the swelling and shrinking of the wood might cause you trouble later. You need the radius for ease of chording and bending the strings, so I don't think going without a radius will work. Unless you are going to build a classical guitar. I don't believe they have a radius, or not much of one.
Wait for some answers though I am by no means a expert on this subject.
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That is an ambitious undertaking. Looking forward to the finished results.
The most beautiful guitars!
in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Posted
I don't think the horn and my belly would be a good match.
But those Pagelli basses do something for me. I'm not ready to tackle a project like those yet. Maybe in a couple more years (or twenty).