WiFiGuy

Hi all, Thanks for the advice posted last week. With the mahogany body on its way, I went out and made a template this weekend--and I got some very helpful advice from an unexepected source: my 11 year old daughter. She saw me struggling with transfering the CAD drawing, at scale, to something I could trace out on the template. She came up with the idea of using the overhead projector to trace out, here's what we did: Body Template Template was created by downloading CAD drawing and printing it out on a 8.5” X 11” transparency. Using an overhead projector, CAD image was projected onto a piece of cardboard construction paper that was pinned to a wall. Paper was pre-marked with a straight line that was then matched to the center line of the projected CAD image. Projector was adjusted until projected neck pocket outline was as close to actual dimensions (3” X 2 3/16”) as possible, with center lines matched. With neck pocket scaled correctly, guitar image was then traced onto construction paper, then cut using an exacto-knife. Cut paper image of guitar was then laid onto 3/4” thick slab of birch plywood, traced and cut using a band saw. Belt sander and block sander were then used to smooth out edges. Template edges are not perfect I may work on them as time permits, will need to get a drum sander set up for my drill press though. Check here for a pic: http://www.geocities.com/savespark/GuitarBuild.html Next step will be to figure out how thick the top and body will need to be--I have a neighbor with a 12" planer who'll happily let me use it. One small thing though with using this planer, the max width of the template at the "toe" of the guitar is about 13 inches. My neighbor said we may be able to the turn the guitar as it feeds though the planer--this of course means that the body and top will need to be cut prior to planing, instead of just planing down the raw wood. Any issues with this that we should be aware of? Also, turning a piece as it goe through a planer to make it fit--any issues there? How does this sound for top and back thicknesses: Top = 3/8", Bottom = 1 3/8" I figure with a 3/8" top, I'll be able to shape an elbow contour into the bottom left part of the body. I'll be ordering the top shortly and will be getting some templates for the neck cut out, pick ups, trem and contols. As always, I'll take any insights that you may have. Thanks

Hi, Just bought a one-piece mahogany body blank on e-bay last night and would like to use it for the bottom of a semi-hollow strat-style guitar that I'd like to build. Are there any "rules of thumb" with regard to the thicknesses for the tops and bottoms of these type builds? To keep the guitar in the 1 3/4" thickness dimension that I see commonly used for solid body builds, I figure I'll have to plane down the bottom in order to accomodate the top's thickness. I'm not planning on going for a carved top--I figure I'll have enough trouble figuring out how to laminate a flat top to the routed mahogany bottom anyway. Instead of going wth the traditional Strat shape, I'd like to use the body shape of a JazzMaster. Although the body will be that of the JMaster, everything else will standard Strat--with the exception of a piezo type pickup in the bridge that I'd like to add for some accoustic versatility. Anyone have any tips on drawing this so that I can make a template? I'm not so good at freehand drawing---traciing the real McCoy or using a computer drawing would be best for me. Anyway, thanks in advance for any info shared.

Hey guys, Stumbled across this while looking for some info on a woodworking project that I might be doing: http://www.woodworking.org/InfoExchange/viewtopic.php?t=3913 Nice pic's and clear explanations. Makes one wonder about adding some cool inlay designs to an ax body or neck.

Thanks for the quick replies, and I appreciate those of you who took the time to read and share your insights. Re the X-Bridge---yup, that sounds like what I need for my accoustic sound, I'll be adding one to my parts list. Although the X-Bridge or something like the X-Bridge appears now to be a "given" for this guitar, the EMG pick ups are not. I checked their website and read that the primary ads to going with their active system are noise reduction and volume. Since I'm basically a hack playing with a wanna-be jam group, maybe I don't need to complicate things by going quite as upscale as that of the active route. I gotta figure that there are alot of traditional passive pick up configs that'll give me a very nice sound but without the complications of trying to integrate the two systems. I'd be open to any pick up suggestions that you guys might have experience with. Re the switch, yes I will look into something that would give me the most versatility. Ideally, I'd like to be able to switch between the mag pups as is normally done AND mix in the piezo if desired OR just go with the piezo when a true accoustic is needed. If a three-way will do this, then it'll be on the list as well. Re the the lubed nut and locking tuners--thanks for setting me straight on this, it makes sense. Re the pick guard, since this guitar will be strummed a good bit of the time, I'd feel better about the guard. While I'm not so focused on a "Strat Look" appearance, I'd hate to marr the finnish or have it show wear. I saw some clear pick guards that I'll take another look at---or I'll find one that works with the wood tone. I saw a couple finished strat style hollows that had guards in the picture galleries and they didn't look too bad to me. Re feed back, I had heard that a hollow body with F hole is more prone to this, but feel that I should be able to deal with it if it rears its ugly head. At present I play a '81 Gibson RD Artist that from time to time picks up sound through its humbuckers. Although it is very infrequent, I have been able to control it by moving or repositioning amps etc. Anyway, happy Friday to all of you and thanks again for the words of wisdom. I'm happy to hear from any and all.

Ok (insert the emoticon of someone rolling up their sleeves and clapping their hands together)---gonna build me a git box!! Maybe "build" is the wrong word. Since this is my first attempt, "assemble" may be a bit more like it. Whatever anyone wants to call the process, I'm excited and looking forward to both the challenge of getting it done and the end result: my first new guitar, built exactly the way I want it!! Been readin' up at various sites, lookin' at tutorials here and elsewhere, and marveling at the craftmanship and creativity that many of you possess. So now that my brain is fully swimming in a sea of details, here’s the “vision” so far: Sound I play in a neighborhood jam band and we play all sorts of music, from blues, to country, to progressive modern (not much into metal though) to classics from the 60’s and 70’s. This being said, I’d like it if I could get a guitar that could give me a bluesey sound, a country twang, and could even sound like an acoustic. I can use my POD to get crunchy stuff and power chords going if necessary. Look At first I was thinking of a painted or dyed finish, but in seeing some of the guitars many of you guys have made, I’m leaning toward natural finish, clear coated for protection with black or stainless hardware. Here’s what I have come up with so far re parts etc., this list was mainly compiled from Warmoth's web site: Body: Warmoth Hollow Strat, Bubinga over a Mahogany base, with one F hole and routed for a pickgaurd Neck: Warmoth Pro construction, Arrow, Standard Thin, Mahogany Frets: SS6105 stainless Fretboard: Ebony Nut: Earvana Tuners: Gotoh Kluson Tremolo:Gotoh Wilkinson Pickups: EMG SA/SA/81 ***Since I’m new to all of this and don’t pretend to know what I’m, talking about, please feel free to make any necessary suggestions or to flat out tell me if I’m doing something dumb or that won’t work very well**** Here’s a question: Since I’d really like to be able to get an acoustic sound when needed, should I consider going with some saddle pickups? I’ve seen a few guitars in some of the "finished" galleries were the builder included Graphtec Ghost Saddle pick ups, but I really don’t know much about these. If I could simply throw a switch and go from the magetic pickups to the piezo for acoustic strumming, I’d like that. Will this be a big deal to install or require a bunch of routing etc? For assembly and finish, I was thinking of doing that myself. I can solder and am pretty good with assembling stuff. My assumption based on what I’ve read is that I’ll have to spray about 12 coats of clear nitro cellulose sealer on the neck and body from a spray can. Anyway, let me know what you guys and gals think of all this.

Every time it happened to me, it was by far the best thing that could have happened. Sometimes when it's time to go, you ignore the obvious and hang on---at least that's what I did a couple times. All I succeded in doing by hanging on, was to waste more time at a job that wasn't doing me any good. Funny how I never went hungry, or became homeless as a result of being let go. Once I got out of my "black holes" I was always amazed and excited at the possiblities. You'll be fine. In a month or so you'll look back and laugh about it. And oh yeah, on the odd chance that you get asked back, don't go!!!! Enjoy the tail end of this summer, then go back to work and kick some ass!!!!!!