USAF1989

Here you go: STEWMAC It's a pick-up ring for a single coil. Is that what you are looking for? If using a ring, the order from top to bottom is: ring, spring, pup cover, pickup...a screw goes thru all of it, just like using a strat pickguard. If you don't want to use a pickguard or pick-up ring, then you place the spring under everything: pup cover, pup, spring...screw goes thru it all.

The only "hum" I have in mine is from reverb. It only happens in certain playing environments. I solved the problem by placing a small towel flat on the bottom inside the amp. No more hum.

I have a booster that I built and installed into a guitar of mine. That guitar has lots of switches and knobs. Reverse polarity, coil cuts, varitone switch, booster unit, etc. It's crazy! That guitar is my experimental one. I use it on gigs sometimes, it's cool. You can change tone easily anywhere in the bar. Expensive to outfit all your guitars with on eeach, though. If you have a guitar to mess around with, try it. Build one yourself, though. You'll learn a thing or 2.

Follow the positive/negative rule, use resistors (unless they're built into the led), and use a perf board if they'll be lined up or in a pattern. Of course, you can solder point to point. does that help?

Can you raise the value of a resistor?

As a cabinet-maker, I have some knowledge in wood characteristics. You can only control expansion/contraction to an extent. That said, properly sealed wood won't affect playability regardless of seasonal changes. You also must consider moisture content, among other things. Think of burl (not Ives)........look at the numerous grain directions, but it's vastly used. Mahogany vs. Ash Vs. Maple and on, and on, and on. Different grian patterns, sizes, etc. Different movement, and so on. Grain movement discussion can go on forever. String tension acting across the grain vs. with the grain shouldn't be a huge deal, either. How much pressure is being applied to the fulcrom of the bridge screws, strings, nut? Who can answer this: what is the shear-strength of your bridge screws? Ask a Structural Engineer if you need more in-depth definition of anchors relating to strength/tension/strength. Sound vibrations travelling 5X's faster in one direction than another? I'm not literate on that topic, but I'd be interested for the statement to sight references so I can investigate further. Aesthetics would be the main reason to consider running the grain parallel wiht the neck. Mandatory, not by any stretch.

White stuff = filler. Yes, you need to add filler back to the places you sanded through. If you see red (grain not paint), you probably did take too much off. Of course, that depends on how deep the dings/scratches were. Anywho, add filler, then sand flat. Think of it as body work on a car, except it's on a guitar. WOW! What a comparison. It's kinda like joint compound on sheetrock walls. You got the idea? Add filler, let dry, sand flat. Then again, and again, and again until it's eprfectly flat. I'm assuming (OH NO!) that the filler is covering th eentire body to where you can't see any grain?!!? Of course, you can always remove all the filler and leave natural. Depends on the look you're going for. Good luck, wear a mask, and that that safety stuff!

You could always fill it with liquid refreshment. You'd have to add a spicket to your guiter so you could pour it into a shot-glass.

There is a ton of information on the net about modding pups, etc. Try this place out for some ideas: Info & Schematics You'll also be able to find shcematics/layouts for boosters, etc all around. If you can solder, you can make a simple booster/tone-shaping circuit and install it in your guitar. Have fun experimenting!

Very simple, been done hundreds of times. Just know your color-coding on p/ups. Do a search in this forum & on 'net; there are schematics all over the place.

This guy's site has some pretty good info on it. About 2/3rds the way down this page, you might find useful: Def Eddie

You should be able to unwind the cloth tape instead of cutting it. I would always turn them into 4-wire just in case you want all option later down the road. Plus, when you upgrade to better PU's, whoever you give the modded ones to might want all options. Heat-shrink tubing over all wires...done. Pretty cool modding the PU wiring, huh? Your 1st one?

I mean, more like painting a canvas, as opposed to painting a wall. Isn't the difference between painting a canvass and a wall just the size of brush you use?

NP about body blank thickness, Desopolis. I'm currently located in Indiana. During the past 17 years, have lived in Montana, Illinois, & Florida, too. I've used it a few times at each location, and it was always on hand. I would normally expect that here in the midwest region. It's also been my experience that people in a hardwood trade such as lumber mills, cabinet-makers, furntiure builders, luthiers, etc know what swamp ash, white ash, & mountain ash are. The main differences are weight & some coloration, as well as growth location.

Rick500, yes, the aluminum tape used to seal ductwork will work. I use that, and have never had any problems. It's inexpensive, adhesive-backed, and another roll is 5 minutes down the road. I'm impressed with the wiring & shielding you guys have shown. Very clean and professional looking. Don't you hate when you open one up that looks like a spider's been living in it! Ha!