JohnRossitter

Sure have I actually used it once....but Im always looking for other ways to do things Actually Radius jigs are one of the most clever things I see on this site...eveyone has their own little way. I wanted to take pictures of the one I made the other night, but the wife didn't let me get into the workshop lastnight; I will try again tonight.

Sorry for the lack of liego Its an older washburn body can't find the correct neck for it thansk for all the help Tried Ebay?

Last night I actually made a clever little modified version of that design. I'm going to take pictures tonight and post them later.

OK I misunderstood. When you said you wanted to do a single peice neck, I thought that the stock you had was think enough for you to do a cutout headstock on the bandsaw. In that case I would have avoided the truss rod, because I don't think that it would have made any adjustments, but now I see that you have a much thinner stock to work with, so yeah I would use one, and I would use a dual action at that. One thing you can do to hide the glue at the scarf joint is to use a high contrast accent wood shim between your ebony. Something like 1/16" maple or bloodwood. It's a beautiful board man!

Why do you need a seperate Fingerboard? If you plan on skipping the truss rod, just fret the ebony itself.

I dont think that you would need a truss rod unless you were making like a 7 string long scale bass. Ebony should hold up under the stress, and I dont think that a truss rod would do anything to help anyway other than add stability. Do it as a set neck if you can, that should help. Make sure that the neck is as straight as you can get it. Could look nice with come purpleheart or bloodwood accents. Finish it with boiled linseed or tung oil. I would love to see pics of it before you start cutting.

His first build looks like it's gonna turn out better than lots of other people's. Keep up the good work Zeb. If I could lffer some advice, I would add more contours to the spape. Get a roundover bit for your router and round the edges. There is nothing like the excitement of playing your first hand built guitar...I looking forward to it for you.

Scroll saws are a good tool to have, but for guitar work wou will be far better off with a 9"-10" delta bandsaw to start with. I would say the must have stuff is: Drill Press Bandsaw Table Saw Router

Nice jig. I bet that could made into an adjustable one with some thought and wingnuts

Also check Youtube for setup advice. There are many videos out there which can give you visual aid

Yeah my brain was scrambling to understand what Astro was talking about. What kind of body do you have? Find the beck that was designed for it. Or build one

No offense taken at all man. I think we are probably both right to a degree. I don't think that companies like that are an evil empire or anything. There is a lot of good they do in the lower end instrument spectrum. However no Warwick is worth $5,999.99. Or a Chinese made NS Double Bass for $3,200.00. Thats just what companies do with branding.

Good one... But maybe a used one out on the curb

In the past I have made my own radius sanding blocks by copying the convex radius of something else. For example take a 5 gallon paint bucket and glue a strip of 80 grit sand paper to the outer surface. Then take a block of soft wood like Basswood or Pine and start sanding in a perfect straight line. After a few minutes, you have a radius sander of your own that you glue sand paper to. It's a poor man's solution, but works well. Now I'm challanged to find a way to copy a 14" radius. I need to find something I can copy it from, but am drawing a blank. Can anyone think of something easily accessable with about a 14" radius, which I could copy? I was thinking maybe a spare tire. Thanks for you input....

I think that it's a wonderful idea. I'm sure that your students could learn a whole lot, but at the same time I would hate to over expose them to non related topics. The admins may be able to setup a sub-forum for those projects only, maybe that could kind of help keep everything in one place with it. Best of luck with the project, I would love to see what they come up with. Perhaps you could partner up with the woodshop teacher there and actually make some of them.

I only use ferrules on my bolt on builds. I love the look.

It's amazing what people will pay for. It's all a matter of preception really. People associate big bucks with better sound. My usual case in point is Warwick. Personally I love their design and sound, but it's not worth the price they ask for it. What irks me the most about Warwick is the fact that their prices sky-rocketted when they switched over to CNCs for the majority of the work. I understand from a quality control stand point why you would want to use CNC. I also understand from a cost savings stand point, but they are milking the consumer for every cent they can....which is their perogotive I guess, but I won't be buying anything from them. But that exclusivity is the double edged sword that keeps them in business. Actually that's why I started making guitars, because I wanted a Warwick, but figured I could make my own for the same money. Boy was I right...and wrong

got a link?

Yeah, that's what I heard about Warwick. Like I said, I'm not sure if it's true or not, but it would certainly make an irony out of "The Sound Of Wood" slogan

Wow, I think I totally missed the point on this one. I thought we were talking about plates that go inbetween the neck heel and the body neck pocket.

LOLZ Thanks...Man, some people take this stuff way too serious.

I think you need to define fix. Do you just want it functional and playable? Or do you want it fixed and refinished and looking purdy too? If you just want it fixed: Remove the strings. Fill a syringe with some tite-bond wood glue. Pry the joint open enough as to get the needle into the crack and fill it with a healthy dose of the glue. Clamp it tight immediately, not too tight though. Wipe the excess glue away with a warm wet cloth. Let it sit overnight. That should "fix" it, you are in for a whole world of other opinions when it comes to refinishing it. Best of luck with the repair

Good point Rich! If you can afford to, go ahead and buy more wood than you NEED, and let it dry in the pipeline. And keep the pipeline stocked. I have about a 1 year cycle of woods to work with at any given time.

That is awesome.

I believe that Warwick sometimes uses brass plates between the neck and body in their sockets. I was told that they used them for better sustain, but I can't imagine how it would help any more than wood on wood friction. I could have been misinformed though.