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anderekel

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Everything posted by anderekel

  1. Yep, I know that I'll need other tools to help shape the neck as well. The biggest thing is that I don't have much experience with planes and the like, I do, however, know how to sharpen a blade. I didn't think about goin' used, don't know why, I usually buy lots of stuff used, so I'm gonna take a look and see what I can find. Thanks for the info Spoke and Rich
  2. I used turtle wax on a some duplicolor clear, on a panel I painted, and it worked fine, no damage certainly.
  3. Ok, I had my aunt lookin' through my grandfather's tools to see if he had one I could use, but they can't find one, so I'm gonna buy one. I've seen that Lie Neilson (sp) seems to be considered the best. I've also seen that the veritas one's from lee valley are rather highly reccomended, at least the low angle one, the others I didn't see any thoughts on. Then there's numerous cheaper ones that I've seen are good after you give them a nice tune up and maybe a new blade. I'm in the position of not wanting to spend 120 or so for the lie, that's a lot of money, but I also don't want to get get a cheap one that I have to do a lot to to make it work decently. So, I'm wondering if there are any recommendations on a middle of the road one that will be pretty good, but not break the bank. I was lookin' at the low angle veritas one, I saw that Rich (fryovanni) got one and liked it. The biggest thing I wonder about is the low angle part though, does that make a big difference? Is it harder or easier to use, cut worse or better or anything like that? Thanks for you time all, Derek
  4. Wow, that looks very nice, very profession job on the case. Now I'm just waitin' for pics of the finished guitar
  5. I'd say you might as well give it a try, worse that'll happen is that you discover you will have to remove it anyway, at least as far as I can see.
  6. well, it looks pretty cool to me, but you aren't gonna be able to use the whole fret now is the only thing I don't like, though I very seldom use any string on the fret other than the high E.
  7. not really any progress, but I got my fretboard from lmii today Oh, think I should radius before or after I glue it to the neck and get it final size and whatnot?
  8. Cool, I didn't see this thread before, I'm excited to see more of it. My grandfather was a big woodworker (where I got it from) and he often cut down trees and had the local Amish woodmill cut it down for him, so it's cool to see how it's all done.
  9. Oooooohhhhh, I like the color of the stain, I'm not a huge fan of staining wood, just me, but that one turned out very nicely
  10. I was thinkin' about doin' a 45 on some of it, I'm gonna draw some out different ideas and decide what I'm gonna do. As far as headstock goes, I have the tuners I switched out of my les paul copy, which weren't the original tuners anyway, probably much better than the original, so it's gonna be a 3x3. A prs style headstock would probably be a good one. The wings are chakte kok apparently also called red heart and mahogany for the back. I saw that chakte kok board sittin' there and thought it looked really nice, so I had to get it lol.
  11. Ok, I had to look up what a shark egg looked like. It's actuallly pretty cool and I can see the resembelance http://www.shark-pictures.com/viewpic.php?..._1145855945.jpg Thanks for the comments all, and thanks for the help on gettin' the picture up orgmorg lol
  12. Yeah, to each their own. I never really thought about it till I saw a guitar from Ed Romans that had a small hole like that (we don't need to start anything there, hehe). So I wanted to make a guitar that had a cutaway like that, but bigger and a little more fancy on the ends. Thanks for sayin' about the quality, I'm glad it's lookin' decent to more experienced builders than I. The headstock is 3x3, forgot to mention that earlier lol. The finish is probably gonna be tru oil.
  13. Ok, I've been workin' on this for a few weeks, but I only get to work monday nights for a few hours, so I don't get to do a whole lot at a time. Anyway, I've been wantin' to build this for a while so I'm glad I finally got the opportunity. I started the design with a template I got from killemall, a prs copy of sorts, and then modified it from there to suit the shape I wanted. I'm happy with how it's turning out so far. I'm gonna get the neck width sawed and sanded out next and then the thickness cut and shapin' the neck. In the mean time though, I'm gonna try and figure out how I'm gonna carve out the body, various bevels and belly cut and whatnot. I also have to figure out the headstock design, I don't have any idea how I'm gonna do that, shape wise that is. Hardware: BC Rich tuners I switched out of another guitar I own Floyd rose locking nut, I didn't like the washburn one Everything else is from a cheap washburn guitar that I bought for the wonderbar, I'm not a fan of the pickups at all so at some point I'll probably switch those out, but until then I'll use what I got Any suggestions on how I should do the bevels or of a basic headstock that would compliment the body would be appreciated. The wings aren't actually glued on to the body yet. Let me know what ya think of the guitar overall. http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z120/an...=IMG_0167_2.jpg Thanks orgmorg for tellin' me that, I probably shoulda noticed that the image code was there, hehe
  14. I'm not really a fan of rhoads v's, but I really like that one, the little gills or whatever are awesome.
  15. Well, if you wanna be able to dive bomb and whatnot go with a floyd or edge or what have you, if you're not worried about it, go with a tune-o-matic or string through. It's all about what you wanna have in your guitar.
  16. Yep, Ebay's where I got mine. See if you can find one on a cheap guitar, that's what I did, got the whole thing for a few bucks more than a wonderbar usually goes for and now I can sell off the parts I don't want and get a little money back
  17. Well, That's where the neck and the body meet in the set neck, you could probably repair it if you really wanted, but I would most likely it would appear over time again. I'd say don't worry about it.
  18. How much did you think you would pay for a radiused/slotted cocobolo board? Like erik said, you're paying for a service, not for wood only. The cheaper you can get is a slotted board and radius block from LMI. You'll already have the block for future projects. And don't forget you'll have a harder time glueing a radiused board... Unless you use a radius block. But again, you'll have to buy it one day or another. Yeah, Like I said, didn't quite think everything out I'm just gonna get the board from LMII and the radius block from stew mac, thanks for the help.
  19. Well, I think you'll do a fine job on the sewing and whatnot, everything looks great and well thought out so far
  20. You make a good point, didn't think about having to true it up after attaching it, I can certainly see the reasoning behind it. I guess I might as well go with LMII and just radius it myself, thanks for pointing that out rich. Sometimes I don't quite think of the little IMPORTANT things. Thanks for the reminder, and actually, thanks for a lot of your other posts, I've learned a lot from them and many other posts on the board, but I especially like to see what you have to say. Anyway, I guess I'll go for gettin' the board at LMII and the radius block from stew mac.
  21. Thanks for the link, I sent a message, so we'll see.
  22. That would end up at over 45 bucks and I don't really wanna spend that if I don't have to, but I wouldn't be surprised if I do.
  23. I'm lookin' for a cocobolo fretboard that's slotted and radiused. 24 frets, 25.5" scale, 14" radius. I'd get it from LMII but they don't appear to offer 14" radii If anyone knows where I could get one or has the ability to make one easily let me know, the only places I really know of to get the stuff is LMII and StewMac. Thanks for the help
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