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Son of Magni

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Everything posted by Son of Magni

  1. The graphite paint will come off on your fingers. Are you talking about "Liquid Wrench" of something like that? I wouldn't get that anywhere near an instrument
  2. Where did you get the camphor, if you don't mind divulging...
  3. Don't fret http://www.thorbass.com/sounds/sonata3.mp3
  4. Interesting comments you received on that You still playing it like that?
  5. Yup, that's pretty much it. Only difference is I use a high power heat gun. Usually takes me about a half hour.
  6. Dielectric paint would be non-conductive paint. Useless for shielding. Stewmac sells the graphite mixed paint that I use. But I only use it for the controls compartment. As Russ mentioned, most pickups are pretty well shielded on the back.
  7. I'm not saying not to do it or even that it's necessarily a bad idea, but most people will tell you that a low B should have a 34 or 35 inch scale length. With a 32 inch scale you will have to use heavy gauge strings and even then the strings will probably feel a bit floppy. Of course if you have a light touch and/or mostly play near the bridge it might not be a problem. So I'd just recommend that you do a little research on low B's and scale lengths to make sure this is really the way you want to go.
  8. A simple fingerboard clamping caul I made from scrap pine. The two bottom edges are cut at angles that approximate the fingerboard radius.
  9. Ah, I see. You do have to take some care. The horns can be in danger too depending on your design. But I find neck carving and neck to body blending to be about the most fun and rewarding tasks of building an instrument Using a router or even a router table, these I don't really enjoy...
  10. Thanks for confirming my suspicions Erik. I'll round it over first. The worst is that I do my roundovers with files and the thought of filing the body close to the glued-in neck sends shivers down my spine Unfortunately I don't have a good pic of blending the body to the neck. But I rough shape the neck and roundover the body. Then after I glue them together I go at it again with the rasp to blend the two together for a nice smooth transition. Ideally it should end up looking like it was all molded from one piece. Someday maybe I'll have pictures of every step I guess what I'm saying though is, if you assume you're going to blend the joint then you won't be worrying about nicking the neck with your file...
  11. My only concern about that theory is that when you use a capo, you're creating a break angle over the fret. This in effect cantilevers (sp?) the string over the next fret. If your break angle at the zero fret is the same then all is well. If not, then it *might* make sense for the zero fret to be higher (probably only by a few thousandths).
  12. Wow, that is pretty amazing. Anyways, back to threadstarter, I wouldn't try to just add a pickup to the J configuration. Try to use all available space. My bridge pickups are much closer the the bridge than the standard J pups in order to get the most variance between pickups.
  13. That bass is Claro Walnut top and back with Mahogany core and Maple highlights. The neck is Maple, Macassar Ebony, and Purpleheart. One cool thing I did with that bass is the front of the headstock, the fingerboard, and the plate on the front are all from one piece of Macassar Ebony and it's cut so that the grain is continuous. Yes I have a small gearhead mill that I make bridges and tailpieces on. I also use it for cutting truss-rod slots and plaining neck angles, etc. Basically it's like two basses stuck together, but without the extra top and bottom. So it's standard thickness, 1 1/2, plus about another 1 1/4. So just under 3 inches. Thanks everyone for your questions and interest. SoM
  14. Maybe I'm missing something here, but it sounds like you're re-crowning without leveling the frets first. If what you're after in the end is nicely dressed frets, you should use your scrap neck to practice the leveling procedure first, then move on to recrowning and polishing...
  15. Ha, that's a great idea! Actually I did this because I glued the body wings together and forgot to cut the access first. Now it's my standard method.
  16. Hey, thanks guys. Here's another unusual one. Same shape but this guy wanted sort of a cross between an electric and an acoustic-electric. It certainly is unique!
  17. Here's some pics I took to help explain calculating neck angle. I haven't written the explanation part yet But here's the pics anyways... http://www.thorbass.com/images/coconeck1_.jpg http://www.thorbass.com/images/quilt1_.jpg http://www.thorbass.com/images/quilt2_.jpg http://www.thorbass.com/images/billTop_.jpg All your pics are too big and only one allowed per post as per forum rules! Sorry about that, I will reduce...
  18. Ha Jon, where did you meet FM, at Drexel? Well, thanks for the props
  19. So, I've been building basses for a few years, just ran across your forums and though I'd say HI. Some of you might know me from talkbass or sputnik(mx)... Anyways, I'll just be lurking... helping out if I can
  20. When I needed some measurements on a Hipshot bridge, I just called them and someone, Jason I think, was happy to measure one and give me the info.
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