bluespresence

There's two of these on ebay with 13 hours left. One blue and one red. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...egory=7266&rd=1

I forgot to mention Bubinga. Looks a lot like coco (which I don't know the tonal qualitites of) and is a lot less $$$. It's also a good neck wood. See link from Warmoth. http://www.warmoth.com/common/frames/bassneck.htm

Here's a quick link I happened to be looking at before I stopped here. http://www.westpennhardwoods.com/exotic/index.php 8/4 means it's 2 inches thick. I think the boards ar 6 inches wide and the price is by the board foot. see the second link for figuring it all out. I am by far no expert -I always email and tell them what I want and ask how much it costs. http://advantagelumber.com/sizes.htm Pretty pricey stuff! It sure is purdy though!!

OK it's time to sell some basses and look at building some more stuff or buying a new cab! I have the following for sale: Yamaha RBX170; Metal Flake red, excellent condition, bought from closing guitar shop new. Yamaha RBX270; Metal Flake red, excellent condition, new. Presence (My Custom Name) P Bass; Metal Flake Purple, One piece mahogany body, Basslines, etc. New and sounds great! email me for pic's and more info. Prices are well below retail and I will only charge you what it actually costs to ship them. If you are in central Wisconsin (I'm near Fond du Lac), email me and you can stop over and play any one you want. Although a beverage fee is required to jam at my house!! I'll have more for sale as I get more customs done too. If you want something special, I'll build it for you. email me for more info.

Is this what you're looking for? http://www.warmoth.com/common/frames/guitarneck.htm Hope it helps.

Leave it to the bass player to be different....I use my tone pot ALL the time. Blues and classic rock goes low for a mellow sound, rock, metal goes mid for more treb/punch and jazz goes high for a little more bite when I slap or pluck. But, like Jehle said "I'm mental" and what sounds good to me may be different for you. From what I know a log pot adjusts output more in the way the human ear actually hears sound (more in the middle, less on either end). A linear pot is obviously linear across the whole range of the pot. Just what Saber and Whisky182 said. I've used both and to be honest I just turn it until I get the sound I want so it doesn't much matter which you use. If you haven't used the tone pot much try it. Turn the amp volume low for a minute or two and try different positions on the pot while playing different songs. When I did play guitar (briefly) I found the more trebly sound to fit better with songs that you picked in (for example: GnR Patience, Green Day good Riddance, lots of Pink Floyd, etc) and the bass end sounded better in metal and distorted songs. My 2 cents!

PS: We need a Bass Player emoticon!! Just for us guys that can only handle four strings!

Here's a discussion from the MM site that may interest you. It's an "us vs. them vs. quality vs. etc..." thing. I have found other info elsewhere that confirms that Cor-Tec does a good deal of manufacturing for most guitar companies out there. http://mightymite.axegrinder.com/cgi-bin/i...orum=1&topic=11 Like most things now a days, one guy makes them and puts anyone's label on it. I've worked in manufacturing for many (too many) years and it was the same thing. We make it, 50 companies buy it, and we put 50 different labels on it. I've used the MM necks on several bolt on builds and found the quality to be more than acceptable. I'm not pushing a brand here I'm just saying I believe most aftermarket parts come out of the same doors and we only see a different name. The moral is: if you find something that works for you, fits in your budget, and sounds acceptable to your ears, who cares where it was made? Build it (or buy it) and play it. I'm sure it's been said before "I'd rather have a cheap axe than no axe". Play 'em loud and play 'em often!

The "Gang" Yamaha RBX170, Yamaha RBX270, Peavey Fury (My Fav - beat to crap - no worries about more scratches), Peavey Grind (a beauty), Purple P (home made with one piece mahogany body, basslines, etc....) "In Progress" http://home.centurytel.net/bluespresence/g...les/guitar2.jpg Follow the link - I pasted the pic but it came out huge. Yamaha RBX270 (busted truss rod - not my doing - from guitar shop when setting it up - oooops!), Black PJ (almost done), and a J Bass body and neck.

OMG!!! I thought us cheeseheads were the only ones to say "honking"!!!! It sounds AWESOME too! The wifey thinks it's much too loud ('specially when the house starts rattling!). I'm searching for a Hartke 410 to add to it. Of course I'll have to sell a few basses first.......

What is 0.6mm in american/english?? I know the most common fret slot (and tang) is 0.024 inch. There are others. Make sure you used the correct fret saw before you go crazy on this. Maybe you can buy a fret with a wider tang and it will fit the slot or maybe you have to start over. Boards are fairly cheap especially if you just buy a board cut to thickness and do the shaping and fretting yourself. Check out "Make your Own Electric Guitar and Bass" by Dennis Waring & David Raymond. It's got a ton of great info on all aspects of building your own guitar in both bolt on and neck through.

Try this link for the first pic. I typo'd. http://home.centurytel.net/bluespresence/g...es/image002.jpg

So maybe I'm not as old as I think I am! Try these: http://home.centurytel.net/bluespresence/g...es/image001.jpg Left to Right: Yamaha RBX170 (stripped tuner - on order); Yamaha RBX270; Peavey Fury (soon to be metal flake blue lacquer); Peavey Grind; Custom Purple P Bass (made by me; solid 1 piece mahogany body); Peavey Combo 115 Amp and Shure wireless (who needs cables?!) The Yamaha's and the Purple P are for sale. http://home.centurytel.net/bluespresence/g...les/guitar2.jpg In progress: Yamaha RBX270 (broken truss rod - on order then for sale); Black PJ (almost done! for sale); Jazz Bass (should be gloss white with all black hardware then for sale) I know, you thought I was bs'ing. I would have thought the same thing!

Ok I'm admitting defeat on my web upload How can I load my images directly in to my posting? I see an image tab but it wants a URL. Any guidance?

Tune the open strings with a tuner. When they're good tune them at fret 12 (one octave higher) on the tuner. If they are out of tune on 12 adjust your saddle on the bridge (towards neck = higher pitch; towards tailpiece = lower pitch). Make sure to tune the open string after each adjustment and check 12 again. It takes a while if it's out of wack really bad, but a fairly easy job to do. It's rare that a guitar has "perfect" intonation, but most get pretty close. If you're within 1/4 step I wouldn't worry too much because most of us can't define pitch that closely anyway. Some (not many) guitars won't adjust to a decent intonation. These should have never left the factory, or may have had a major problem after they did. If you can't hit it after a few tries e-mail me. Crank up the distortion and hope nobody notices until you can afford a guitar that does.

OK, OK, I should have known that was coming. If my "user pic" would load you'd see my Grind. (love Fender, but keep buying and playing Peaveys - IMO they just sound better AND they're much lighter) The others I'll get up on my web site today and throw a link on here for ya!

The board is off now too! Pretty easy job if you take your time and use that "bucket of patience". Now all I have to do is find a replacement truss rod. i was hoping to be able to fix this one or build a new rod using threaded rod but I ran into the problem of space in the adjustment channel to fit a socket in to adjust it. I see they're pretty cheap at StewMac (about $15) so I think I'll go that route instead. Thanks again for the help! Time to jam Problem is deciding which of the 6 basses I have lying around to use! Only 6, two more in progress.

Yeah Baby!! I steamed her up and got about 6 inches of the board up, grabbed the rod channel with a needle nose and she slid right out! It looks like I'll have to pull the whole board anyway so I can sand it and get it sitting flat again but at least the rod is out. Thanks for your tip!

Yeah, A or B, wasn't too clear on that was I? Thanks for the link. As soon as I hit the "add post" a friend of mine e-mailed me this link: http://www.dbeweb.com/guitar/ Same principle without the steam. IMO the steam looks to be a safer way to go with a lot less chance of burning the board. Hopefully I'll be looking this relaxed in 2 or 3 hours I'll let you know how it goes.

I'm new to the forum although I have stopped in on occasion to check it out. Since there seems to be a great deal of knowledge here I thought I'd give this a shot. I've built a few basses and also dabble in "repairables" (that's what I like to call them - some call them junk). I have a Yamaha RBX270 that is new but had apparently been set up by a gorilla. The truss rod nut is snapped off the rod in the adjustment cavity (adjusts on body side not headstock) leaving the neck with a nice bow. I think this is fixable but would like to know if anyone has any suggestions on the best way to remove the rod. My thoughts are: 1. Remove the fret board without damaging it or the neck and replace the rod and paste the board back on. 2. Rout a channel down the back of the neck providing access to remove the rod and replace it, then put a skunk stripe in the channel. Any suggestions? If removing the board is the best way to go (and I think it is) how do I soften the glue enough to get the board off without damaging the neck. I have heard of steaming to soften the glue and remove boards, but I'm looking for experienced input to the best approach to this. Thanks for your