Woodenspoke

Its actually a very good question. From what I have seen for sale most of the curved concave spoke shaves are just too small (the radius is too tight for a neck). They were built for staves and spindles not necks. I just want to point out that a neck is a taper so is not a constant curve from headstock to heel.I have seen nothing for sale that fits the bill for use on necks. A flat spoke shave is your only bet. It's been used for hundreds of years to create round objects, so using it for necks is not really an issue. Dont cheap out is my only advice, I suggest Lee Valley as a good supplier of quality spokeshaves at a reasonable price. I own several from them as well as several Records and use them all. You will need other tools too, you cannot complete a neck with just a spokeshave no mater how small. I use a combination of a spokeshave, Foredom tool with rasp, pattern makers file, scrapers and sandpaper for my work. Even though you will get a lot of opinions here it really comes down to what you can afford and what you feel comfortable using to remove wood. To could even use an axe as long as you can control it. If you understand grain direction and tool setup a flat spokeshave will work fine to remove the bulk of the material and get you where you need to on a neck. A good rassp will also work but will take much longer. If you do happen to find a round concave spokeshave that works let me know. Woodenspoke

To repeat my position; I use an arbor press for most of my work. When the instrument is too wide to use the arbor press, than I use my drill press and the cauls. I prefer not to hammer in frets except on an acoustic. and then only on the lower frets. I find using the Stumac Cauls a lot easier, and gives a higher quality fret job with less leveling. It will ruin your bearing and cause runout???? Nonsense You are applying downward force pressing in frets; you are not exerting laterial pressure. You would only exert lateral pressure on the bearings using a Wagner safety planer as an example. Ruining your bearings pressing in frets is utter nonsense. I have refurbed many old drill presses so I am familiar with its construction. If this theory is based on only using a cheap drill press than it is unfounded. Of course I have never owned a cheap drill press so I have no idea how badly the thing is made. I would assume if you can ruin a bearing applying downward force than the thing would be useless as a drill press. As far as tables go If you can support a weak one than go for it just make sure the support is tight without any play and use the biggest block you can find and place it directly under the point of force. Hopefully its flat under the table casting. Woodenspoke

Its hard to believe people can pick and choose what is or isn't ripping off an Idea. Did Perry build the thing from scratch or did he incorporate many ideas proven by others into his design. Just like Erlewine probably did with the neck jig and with most of his tool designs. I'm sure someone said why did I tell that guy; now he's making a fortune off my idea. It happens everyday. Instruments are OK in your book to copy but not Perry's amp? Your belief that Perry's amp will not be copied or his ideas never used by others belays what the corporate world does; build on other peoples work. Not just the instrument industry but everywhere. Everything posted here resembling a product someone produces is a rip off of someone else's idea regardless if they say they thought of it first or made something that resembled the item in some way, function or form; this includes guitars. I correct that statement; 95% of the stuff I see here is a rip off. Just like the broken link to the "Plans" of someone else's jig, its a ripoff of the Stumac design plain and simple. At least I'm honest about what I wanted to do and not hide behind it as my take on the design. This should earn me more respect as you call it for being the most honest forum member here. If you never looked at or followed one of the ideas posted here than you are of a higher class of forum member and can be called the "community standard". But if you incorporated any ideas from others into one of your tools, jigs, or designs than you are just as guilty, as you would put it as the rest of us non community standard members. To that end I will withdraw my offer to post the plans and offer it in a personal message to anyone who wants it. I will remove that line from the original post. But it seems no one has the jig so its now turned into a topic on "forum ethics". Woodenspoke

Vinny you should check out the Erlewine fretting videos from Stumac a great reference on fretting /refretting with the cauls and without. You can rent the first two from Smartflix.com for $10 each, guaranteed to demystify fretting for ya. They are not copy protected DVD's. Most of it is geared toward refretting (plus showing Stumac tools) but the basic techniques are the same. No one uses a drill press in the videos and I dont endorse any of these companies or duplicating video content for personal reference. Woodenspoke

Sorry about the dig but lets just say it aggravated me that you put my post down without reading it, and the products I make and sell. I apologize for the remark, yeah I guess I am the 10 year old. Unfortunately the tendency for people here is to refer you to someone else's post to find answers rather than helping you out with what you really need. Just read this topic, its already started. I could post what I have which are pretty detailed plans (what I have drawn from videos and pictures) and be hailed a hero, the guy with the plans, but I dont know its accuracy. Then someone would say well thats wrong and your back to square one. Yeah I believe Guitarfrenzy had some plans on a web site which is no longer up; but were they good plans? I know the Stumac jig works so why not copy it. Your a member of this forum have you ever seen anyone go out of their way to help someone. From my experience its rare, so I took the unusual step and offered a reward as an incentive. Am I an idiot for doing it; possibly; depends if the incentive works. This is my last post about my post. Woodenspoke

People always amaze me. Woodenspoke

Thanks Soapbarstrat its nice to know someone on this forum can read english. Woodenspoke

First both of you should read the post instead of making idiotic remarks about making a profit. I said "I will create high quality plans and provide a link to them which will be made available to everyone on this forum". I see no mention of selling anything. I said for personel use could that be any clearer. FREE is this easier to understand. Plus your comments on what I offered sounds like your a moron, what are you 10 years old. So you dont need what I have so move on and let someone who does help me, rather than just putting my offer down. Maybe you can afford to buy the Jig so this is not an issue for you, I know many other members who would like the information posted so they can build their own. I dont want to spend that sort of cash for something I can build for 1/4 the cost. What about all the other plans posted, hey lets remove the $5 fret bender because it may cut into Stumac's business? Well your on the wrong forum if you are defending them here. I too am a Stumac customer and a luthier Supplier and a builder. I could just order the thing but honestly I dont want to. So I am a little more direct and asked for help is that a crime. Plus I offered someone a reward to help me, again not to your liking. I post on this site because I have the freedom to do so, unlike other forums who are supported by Stumac and regulate what information you can post. I wont even mention all the free ideas Stumac has "borrowed". To ask for help and offer a reward seems reasonable to me if thats the only way to get someones attention who owns the jig. Woodenspoke

back to basics a hand saw and plane. A plane bigger than a block plane. sandwich the two together then plane them. The most important thing is a clean glue joint. If you are using figured wood it will be difficult, to not rip it up use a low angled plane. For me a table saw has no equal fast and fearless. Normally I bandsaw out my necks and do not joint the headstock. Always pros and cons to everything you do as you can tell. Woodenspoke

I dont see how anyone could break the drill press table unless the table was a piece of total (well you know). I have a floor standing delta 16 1/2 swing which I use to press fit the lower frets on a glued in neck and have never had any issues. I use the arbor press as much as I can but sometimes you just need more space at the lower frets. Alot of fret wire is sold in rolls. You can straighten it over a curved block of wood or gently straighten it by hand. Generally you shoud start with a sligh overbow to the fret which helps push the barbs on the fret tang somewhat sideways, but its not critical on a new fretboard from my experience, Some people also use two caul sizes so they can seat the edges first then change to the fretboard radius caul for the final press. Again I dont see how a drill press could not handle fret caul pressure. You put alot of force on the table just drilling a piece of metal. You also do not use 1 ton of pressure with a 1 ton arbor press. I say if you have a good drill press go for it, if your worried put a support under the table. Woodenspoke

I want to point out this is for my personal use only. I am interested in making a neck jig for myself and I know some home made plans were available but now cant be found, but I am not interested in home made versions of the Stiumac jig. What I am looking for is a detailed description of the real Jig. Enough detail to make my own version. Most of the details like insert sizes and bushings I dont need. This can be a rough document and not a plan as long as all the hole locations are referenced from a known edge and are accurate. The chart is also needed. I already have a (best guess) plan, drawn up from videos and pictures but I need to know how far off I am. I know others who have these plans too, but we are not in full agreement. I will reward the person willing to help, with either one of my Pro Fret Benders (see the auction forum or Woodenspoke on eBay) or enough bone or buffalo horn (or both) nuts and saddles to make you happy and compensate you for your efforts. Or you can just do it to help out another member, your choice. I can provide you with my plans so you can correct them if that is easier. Lines removed read full topic. I already know how it works so I dont need lessons, this is construction support only. Please send me a personal message,do not post on this topic letting me know that you are willing to help. Hopefully someone owns one and will be willing to come forward to help me get my personal jig right the first time. Woodenspoke *Post has been modified as not to offend other members*

Generally 5" is the minimum depth. A standard 16" swing model will work for everything including press fitting frets. I always do the upper frets in the drill press on a glued in neck, works fine. I own a Delta 16" drill press and believe me its no great wonder machine, in fact its pretty bad but it functions. The larger swing models are certainly easier to use especially with a safety planer where the shaft should have some bulk. As long as the chuck and shaft dont have horrible run out most drill presses should work fine. When you get the drill press make sure its within the manufacturers specs. If it isn't return it and get another one. You should own a dial indicator and stand. I had to replace the original chuck because it was horrible. GB

Thans for the post. George PLS

Orders over $50 will ship free in the States. Thanks George PLS

All I hear about is power tools, no one talks about hand tools, sort of the forgotten art; so I was surprised when I see a Hand Plane mentioned. Thank god someone knows how to sharpen a plane iron. I was getting worried routers were the new everything tool. I use power tools for 90% of a guitar build. With professional power tools the job is easy and quick and clean. But I also use hand tools because they work best for the details and fine fitting. I sometimes think I would be a better builder if I could do everything with just hand tools then I come to my senses and realize that the people who say they do must: 1. make a fortune from one piece 2. have real jobs 3. cant afford any other tools Hey I love hand tools, you can borrow any tool unless I have to personally sharpen it; then its off limits, This includes all of my hand tools. My Hand tools are displayed proudly in a prominent cabinet in my shop, but my routers, sanders drills etc. are thrown in a closed cabinet because their are after all just power tools. I love hand tools because I believe they have a greater intrinsic value than power tools. I would never expect my hand planes to wear out. But hell I love both so dont make me choose between them. Woodenspoke

The longer the string length the more room between the end of the fingerboard and the bridge. Its a small difference but a difference none the less. Some people care about harmonics or pickup placement others dont, yes the fingerboard pickup will be off of a harmonic position and toward the bridge. The real question you should ask yourself "can I really finger those tiny spaces at the 24th fret" or "will I ever finger at the 24th fret". Otherwise its been done a million times and works fine as Jnewman says everything moves a little toward the fingerboard. Just dont expect to find 24 frets designs from most books and plans. You will need to build your own body and neck generally. A large heal is also a negative to fingering in the higher frets so a bolt on neck and 24 frets is a waste of time in my play book. Woodenspoke

I dont get unbleached bone from my supplier and havent yet looked for one who does ship it unbleached. If the order is big enough I would consider shipping to you, send me a mesaage with your requirements Wooodenspoke PLS

This is an exclusive for Project guitar members Luthier supplies Nuts and saddles in quantity, shipped to the USA and Canada, payment through PayPal or Money order only. You must contact me through your forum email. These prices are current pricing and will be in effect for the forseable future. Check the retail prices you will find they are considerably lower. If you need smaller quantities I will mix and match as long as the minimum amout is 25 pieces total. If you only want smaller amounts see my eBay auctions under woodenspoke. Shipment costs will vary depending on the amount and location, my best gestimate is from $3.00 to $10. Most will ship first class up to 1 LB then I will ship out Priority mail over 1 lb. I can proviide over night shipping if you need it. Totals will be provided before payment. Bone nuts and saddles priced per piece, sold as an unshaped white bone blank. Blanks are checked before shipping for chips so you will receive a first quality product. Color does vary from bright white to slightly off white but they are uniform throughout. Gibson sized nuts: 25+ $1.10 each, 50+ $1.00 each, 100+ $.90 each Martin sized nuts: 25+ $1.40 each, 50+ $1.30 each, 100+ $1.20 each Fender sized nuts: 25+ $.80 each, 50+ $.70 each, 100+ $.60 each Standard Saddles: 25+ $2.10 each, 50+ $2.00 each, 100+ $1.80 each Compensated saddles: 25+ $2.55 each, 50+ $2.25 each, 100+ $2.00 each I will also be receiving MOP blanks sold by the oz (expected delivery in 2 weeks) not a pre order but if you are interested message me. The quantities will be limited at first so first come first served. I am looking at several suppliers to see who come in with the better product. Luiter grade pieces not seconds. White MOP per OZ. 1-4oz $18.00 per oz, 8+ oz $16.00 oz and 16+ oz $15.00oz MOP Dots 6.35MM x 1.3mm (1/4”): 25+ $.33 each, 100+ .30 each. I have a limited quantity on hand of this size as well as 7mm, 4mm and 5mm dots. Email me other size pricing as well as avalibility Buffalo horn Nuts and Saddles pure black, minimal streaks of color (very minimal) Rough cut buffalo horn in any size you need. Listed is what I have pre cut and sell on eBay. Contact me for other custom sizes. The smaller the cheaper, I cut it all so I don’t charge for moving my fence over. Polishes to a high luster to a black lacquer like finish Nuts Martin sized but can be sanded smaller for any guitar. 25+ $2.00 each, 50+ $1.50 each, 100+ $1.25 each Saddles in long lengths standard width 25+ $3.00 each, 50+ 2.50 Each, 100+ $2.25 each. I am also selling a Pro fret bender for only $50 which has been a hit on ebay as well as with several forum members, sold on eBay see my forum post. Woodenspoke PLS Pennington luthier supplies

Thanks thats what I wanted to know. How long did the routing take? Woodenspoke

I PMed Prestonswift and he gave me the name of an eBay store. Not a very impressive store, they specialize in violin parts so believe me you are not missing out on the best deals with this link. There are lots of eBay stores with even more stuff around the same price. Why any eBay store is a secret I dont know? If the service is good on a guitar parts Central go for it because the prices look good to me. I added this dealer to my favorites menu, thanks woodenspoke

What about the flat spot created between the outer edges of your router base and the jig doesn't this effect the final radius of the board? Second how are you centering the dish? It looks like you are using a form which is screwed to the bottom of the radius jig made from the cutoffs as you mentioned. Is that correct? I was also wondering if you pinned the center of the form as to be absolute sure its aligned with the router. Sorry about all the questions. I realized I could create a radius template in a cad program and transfer the printer output to the wooden pieces; then bandsaw them to rough shape and sand. How many forms have you made with this method and was there any overlap from the router bit on the plate and what size /type of bit did you use? Woodenspoke

I am in need of several radius plates for an acoustic I intend to build in the near future. Instead of spending $100+ dollars on a set does anyone have a method for making these? I have every tool possible and enough MDF to do the Job many times over just not a viable method that doesn't involve vaulted ceilings and a large pendulum. Any techniques and methods that you have seen or used that really work would be appreciated. No I dont have a CNC router (yet). Woodenspoke

Make sure the worst side is toward the pickups where you will cut the most fret slots. If its your first guitar and you plan on others, dont sweat it. My first guitar I trashed many years ago. Looked cool but was a better piece of firewood. If you are really worried buy a new board from a different dealer, if it was sold to you as a fret board it should not have warped unless it was exposed to excessive moisture in your workspace. Woodenspoke

Do you mean 9/64"(slightly over 1/8")? for your standard size. 9/32" would make them slightly over 1/4"(wider than your compensated). Peace,Rich Rich I think I need you to proof read all my posts and ebay auctions, yes I meant 9/64 and made the correction. thanks again woodenspoke