Jump to content

GuitarMaestro

Veteran Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,480

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by GuitarMaestro

  1. GuitarMaestro
    @Daveg: I guess you missed my post....where are the pictures of that limba axe?
  2. GuitarMaestro
    Why do you buy a basswood guitar then.... Concerning the soft maple: Is anyone else here who used it perhaps even for a neck? I just want to hear about some expiriences with that wood.... Thanks, MK!
  3. GuitarMaestro
    Thanks for your answers! If I would cut the inlay routes as badly as on the JEM I saw, I would throw away the fingerboard....
  4. GuitarMaestro
    Nice Amp....looks like you really did the circuit board the old fashioned way....
  5. GuitarMaestro
    Some days ago I had the famous white Ibanez Vai JEM with the vine inlay in my hands. As I inspected the inlay close I realized that there are black lines between the inlays and the fingerboard wood surrounding it. It looks like some kind of filler, paint or glue used to hide that the routes for the inlays are not that tight. It even looks a little like the inlay is only a thin pearl "sticker" and not really inlayed. Does any one know how Ibanez does these inlays and if they are real? What do the black lines come from? Thanks in advance, Marcel Knapp! P.s.: Is there any other good supplier for pre-cut inlays besides Custominlay
  6. GuitarMaestro
    Sounds interesting, but I cannot locate pictures of an amp at the link you posted....
  7. GuitarMaestro
    The width of the slot is perhaps not that important, but the depth definately is. It should be 100% accurate, so that the fingerboard has contact with the rod all along the slot. If you don't do that, you risk that your fingerboard cracks. Think about it: If the trussrod begins to bend and it does not contact the fingerboard along the whole length, it will put stress on the fingerboard at one small point only, namely the point at which the trussrod's curve is the highest. It is my understanding that this is the reason for people posting about broken fingerboards with the hotrod trussrod.
  8. GuitarMaestro
    why?
  9. GuitarMaestro
    @Daveg: Do you have more pictures of that nice limba guitar? If yes please post them or give me a link....Thanks!
  10. GuitarMaestro
    @Scott: Thanks for the info....Do I get it right that you only built the body from scratch and bought the other parts?
  11. GuitarMaestro
    Thanks for your opinions....any others here? @Scott: That guitar looks nice. What kinda Tremolo is that? What other woods did you use and how does the guitar sound?
  12. GuitarMaestro
    Thanks for your help guys, especially for draks detailed post! Do you think bending the top is a bad idea altogether? It is 1/8" thick....I would have steam bended it the usual way.... P.s.: I have pictures of the top, but no place to host them....I guess I'll have to join one of these free hosting services....but at the moment I don't have time for that stuff....
  13. GuitarMaestro
    1. The scale length is the distance from the nut to the bridge. You can build a bass in different scale lengths, but in order for it to work and intonate correctly the frets have to be placed accordingly. 2. The body can have any shape/size. The only thing that counts is that if you attach the neck to the body, the distance from nut to bridge has to result in your desired scale length. As an example: If you use a neck-through neck(a neck which goes through the body and is not bolt on) you can theoretically place the bridge on the end of the neck blank and don't use a body at all. So what you have to do is decide on a scale length and then design a body arround that. If the body begins at the 12th fret or at the 20th does not matter at all, as long as the distance from nut to bridge is correct.
  14. GuitarMaestro
    I have a very nicely figured curly softmaple neck blank here, that I did not use for a neck, because several people recommended not to use soft maple at all for necks. I decided to insert a center laminate of bubinga in order to make it stable enough. Some guy told me that soft maple will make a very mellow and dark sounding neck. As I would use it for a 7-string this would certainly NOT be desired....What's your opinion on this one? Thanks in advance, Marcel Knapp!
  15. GuitarMaestro
    Thanks for the answers. I think I'll rather go with epoxy, because it seems less toxic and dangerous to me. Concerning the finish I guess epoxy will work great with epoxy based paints. As the top I am talking about will have to be bent to the forearm contour, I guess it would be best to bend it to the desired form and then soak it with epoxy, because a already epoxied piece should be quite impossible to bend. Is it a good idea to do it that way? Thanks, Marcel Knapp!
  16. GuitarMaestro
    Thanks alot for the hints! Are you sure this is a low pro version? It seems to be a usual trem to me judging by the pictures, but it is hard to see it clearly.
  17. GuitarMaestro
    I agree with rnablistic 100%....which happens not often....
  18. GuitarMaestro
    In my opinion 1.75" is the standard. Many factory guitars have this thickness: Strat, B.C.Rich and the JEM(I am not sure here?) as well. But there is no fixed rule how thick a body has to be....you can do what you want, but you should do something that is comfortable to play and not too heavy. Although there alot of people liking Les Pauls which are quite heavy.
  19. GuitarMaestro
    Hi! I recieved a very beautiful spalted maple top today. As I have no previous expirience in workinh with spalted maple, I wonder if it is neccessary to harden it somehow. The piece I have has some bug holes and many weak spots, especially the black lines seem to be not very hard. I guess you cannot use spalted maple without hardening somehow....but how should I make it more stable? Using thin liquid epoxy? Or does that harm the sound? Any tips would be great, as I don't want to ruin this impressive piece of wood. Thanks in advance, Marcel Knapp!
  20. GuitarMaestro
    Hi! I am looking for two things for 7-string guitars: 1. A quality Low Profile Floyd Rose Tremolo other than the Ibanez units 2. A quality 7-string TOM I found nothing fitting #1 and not much fitting #2, so if you can recommend something it would be great. Thanks, Marcel Knapp!
  21. GuitarMaestro
    LOL....I like all the bands you mentioned except for Slayer, but my choice of favorite songs would be quite different. ozzy - Perry Mason maiden - 7th sond of a 7th son, Nomad, Ghost of the Navigator metallica - master of puppets, Seek & Destroy, Nothing else matters sabbath - Ironman, Paranoid
  22. GuitarMaestro
    LOL
  23. GuitarMaestro
    Thanks for all the info....It seems that like many other methods in bulding guitars the tapping check is a subject linked to science, expirience and myth! Now I'll begin to try tap checking my tonewoods too. I always knock on the wood I use for instruments, but so far I only did it out of curiosity. One question though: How do you locate defects in the wood by knocking on it as Brian suggested?
  24. GuitarMaestro
    @Jeremy: Mabye you should rather only route until short before the sharp points and do the rest by hand?
  25. GuitarMaestro
    Drak thanks for your apology....I am glad to accept it!!!! Concerning the impact of some of my words: English is not my native language, so some expressions might sound more harsh then they were intended....
×
×
  • Create New...