metalwarrior

I'm going to have an Earvana nut on my current build. I've never tried a compensated nut before but I'm hoping I installed it in the right place so I don't make it sound even more out of tune than a regular guitar at the first few frets.

I just tried taking the air filter off and testing the suction. To me it seemed pretty similar at start up and when full. I didn't have a squirt bottle to try the oil test though. I'm thinking of just giving up on it and upgrading to a better model. I am about to start spraying some guitars soon so I will need something more reliable.

This is what it looked like when I took it apart: I also unscrewed and pulled off the black square thing in the bottom right and ripped the gasket in half The only valve with a spring I could find looked like it was in good shape: http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/2391/compressor03bt0.jpg This is where it came from: http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/5840/compressor02fb0.jpg

I pulled it apart and couldn't see anything wrong with it - I'm no expert though. It isn't a belt drive so I couldn't do the test you suggested digi2t. After putting it back together again it is still suffering from the same problem. I took some pics but I'll have to download a program to resize them before uploading them.

I have a Powerbase air compressor which is pretty similar to this one: http://www.autobarn.com.au/products/15/198/4112873 It should get the air inside the tank to about 120psi before it shuts itself off, but it stops increaseing pressure at 30psi and never shuts off. It just started doing this recently, before now it has worked quite well. I don't use it that much and it is about 3 years old. Sometimes I leave it with air in the tank rather than emptying it out and opening the tank drain valve. I have checked and there are no obvious leaks that I can hear. The filter looks like it is still in good shape, and it has enough oil in it still. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this to happen or what I might do to fix the problem?

Come to think of it, the body blank I got was not Qld maple. It was a very similar species, also a Flindersia but slightly denser. The seller said it is often referred to as Qld Maple as well though. It is definately heavy. But since I am making a 540p style body a lot of it will get carved off. Routing mistakes also make it lighter.

At the moment I'm building a guitar out of Qld Maple. It's not the easiest wood to work with. The neck is made out of coachwood which works well and smells really nice. I got a 90x90 block of blackwood which I have sliced up to make a fingerboard. It's not finished yet but so far I like it.

I was just about to suggest a claw hammer. If you do use a hammer just remember to put a piece of scrap between the hammer and the guitar so you don't put a dent in it.

It's a cool original design. I think it looks good in white with the maple board.

Unfortunately it is not mine. The site I saved the pic from isn't even in english. If I remember correctly it was from Germany. Someone posted a link somewhere saying Germany had a lot of exotic woods.

I have seen Cronos from Venom with frets only on half the fingerboard. He doesn't play jazz.

In the last pic it looks like the bottom side hasn't cracked yet. This makes me assume that it's the string tension pulling on the neck causing the problem, and it will only get worse over time. I wouldn't buy it.

I have been looking into making a small guitar over the past few days. I have also been looking into intonation and various forms of nut compensation. It seems that the shorter the scale length the more intonation trouble you will have playing chords in the open position. If you know how to make a compensated nut you should be able to get it to play in tune though. The scale length for small guitars varies. You can still use a 25.5" scale by simply putting the bridge closer to the back of the body, like on a bass. If you are looking to reduce the overall length you could also consider making a headless neck. I have seen people put the tuners on the body end of the guitar. If you want examples of these try searching for "travel guitars". If you want to make the guitar for a child you will need a smaller scale to accommodate their smaller hands. The problem with this is using a standard nut / bridge will still give you regular string spread which may be too wide. If you are able to make your own brigde you can use one of those rail pickups, rather than one with pole pieces, to get an even sound. These are some random pics I've found so far:

The original version is one of the all time greatest songs ever. It sucked the guitarist played less than 3/4 of the notes in the solo, but the singer made up for it by singing his own back-up vocals.

It's not a veneer, it's over 1.5" thick. I got it at a wood trade show here is Australia.

could you not design the shape to have the knot in a control cavity or something similar? Unfortunately the knot is not where I would normally put a control cavity. I have been looking at small travel guitars lately, and although I don't travel I think some of them look pretty cool. This is how the wood was when I bought it. I didn't cut it to that shape, and I wasn't the one who drew the outline on in liquid paper

I recently bought a one piece body blank of 108 yr old mango. It has the best looking 3D grain I have seen in person. Unfortunately there is a knot on the back and some bark around the edges. I haven't decided if it would best to fill the knot with something, or to cut around it and make small scale guitar.

Could someone please let me know where to find these small screws? I am trying to direct mount EMGs at the moment.

I already have the pickups so using the P81/85 isn't an option. The problem with threaded inserts is I have no idea where to find them that size, just like the small screws I couldn't find. If anyone knows of a place that sells them please let me know.

I have the EMG KFK 81/85 combo and want to direct mount them. The problem is they have a threaded insert which is very small and I can't find a screw small enough to fit through, and I would rather not drill out the hole. The hole is stated as being 3/48. Why don't they just call it 1/16? The smallest screws I have been able to find are 1/8. What is the best way to go about this? I know it can be done but just don't know the right approach.

I haven't planned out my guitar very well either, but I find it gives me the oppertunity to learn how to fix mistakes and turn them into design features. I don't know what shape you are planning to make it, but if the wood is too big couldn't you just cut it smaller, or change the neck join? As for the neck not being as thick as the body for a neck through, I think you could probably rout out a channel in a one piece body blank and fit the neck in that way.

I have a similar saw so I have the same problem with the on/off switch and no connecting holes. I like the way you clamp the saw to the table. It allows for some adjustment that you couldn't get bolting it on direct. I would recommend using wingnuts though for easier use. I was actually planning on buying a new saw but I think I will try this jig instead.

Stewmac have just brought out some CA glue that comes with a brush which I will probably try in the future. I did try some india ink but it was all lumpy which is why I went with the airbrush ink instead. I will try wrapping around the sandpaper on an eraser. Thanks for all the tips.

I was hoping to finish the engraving this weekend but it turned out to take longer than expected, and I had some trouble with it. I just need to do a bit more on the 19/21/24 frets, and some minor touch ups and then I should be done. The engraving filler doesn't seem that durable and will probably not last very long after some use. Here's a pic of frets 1 to 12: Here's 15-24 almost complete. I didn't make abalone eyes for these due to the small size, but I think they will look better in the end. http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/43853DS...-Unfinished.jpg This is after engraving but with no filler: http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/812934D...ed-NoFiller.jpg These are some of the tools I experimented with: http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/92476DS...ravingTools.jpg This is what happens when you use ink and then cover with CA glue - it is virtually impossible to sand just the inlay without getting the board as well. Now I will have to re-dye the board which isn't such a big deal, but I would rather have avoided it. http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/952658D...ravedInlays.jpg