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Muzz

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Posts posted by Muzz

  1. Thanks guys, so good to know I am not the only one, if I can get an hour free tomorrow I will catch the bus to the guitar parts shop and pick one up. They have a box of spare parts there that Wez would love, they are really reliced and ready to go on a suitable project.

    i prefer distressed... or FUBARed to reliced - unless its restoration. you will notice i dont do accurate replicas of vintage guitars as quite frankly it bores me to death, doing it... although i will get to play another bravewood fender relic with original 57 v neck next weekend (my forth bravewood experience and they always impress more than i think they should) and i appreciate the art a lot - just not what i am after doing

    generally my supply of proper vintage parts comes from people who want proper vintage parts on a guitar, sometimes because they have planned a project around that proper vintage part. although i did do the same thing for myself when i managed to get my 70's wide range humbucker for a bargain price so i understand that philosophy

    i am the same type of builder - i aim to order everything up front, still not sure its ever worked out that way... i normally forget things like nut material and jack plates - i keep loads in but never have the right type :?

    Yep, I can understand that, I think there is a lot of art and skill in making a reproduction, and I really enjoy seeing other people do it, but I think I'll leave that to the experts, I like starting without knowing exactly what the end product is going to look like too much. A project I have always thought about is finding a really cool rescued part with history, something like an old Bigsby trem and using that to build a project guitar around. My second guitar project fantasy is to find a beautiful piece of wood at a second hand shop, so it was great to live that vicariously through Our Souls inc's Shaka Zulu project.

    Thought I would chuck out a few more thoughts on fretboard clamping, and hope more people realise not to put clamps directly on the fretboard when they are gluing and use a clamping board to evenly distribute the pressure, so they do not make hills and valleys in their fretboard causing lumps that then have to get ground off their frets.

    2l8cc9d.jpg

    Here is a close up of aerated rubber that takes a few seconds to mold to shape, especially good for radiused fretboards to evenly distribute the pressure. You can get aerated rubber stickers for putting on furniture feet, they work a treat on clamping boards.

    20fb6du.jpg

    And you only need 5-6 clamps down the middle, not 36 all over the place :D

    Put the holes in the scratch plate, I used a hand countersink, clamped the plate onto the guitar and went round drilling the holes and putting the screws in.

    35lhwfp.jpg

    A few were out by a fraction of a mm, plugged with hardwood toothpicks, re-drilled, all OK. Marked out pickup routes.

    11lpf6x.jpg

  2. I should point out that the two photos above are of the mdf practice model, not the ash body. Even so it doesn't matter the router gash is where the tummy tuck is going, check out the huge gash also in the mdf body's trem block hole.

    Or did you know that and were disappointed that I am not going to drop the guitar on my foot? :D

  3. Thanks guys, so good to know I am not the only one, if I can get an hour free tomorrow I will catch the bus to the guitar parts shop and pick one up. They have a box of spare parts there that Wez would love, they are really reliced and ready to go on a suitable project.

    The back of the guitar will be rounded over, kind of like this,

    ndk8ph.jpg

    Must remember not to put the router down too hard and then start rounding over without checking the bit depth, or this will happen

    207tgs0.jpg

    The front is going to keep the sharp edge, must also remember not to drop on foot :D

    Looking forward to routing the pup holes on the weekend, have a great one.

  4. Hey RestorationAD, Sometime try this technique for gluing on a fretboard,

    Get 5 clamps, get a piece of flat inflexible timber, ~20 mm thick the same area as your fretboard or a bit bigger and put pads of medium density rubber (furniture foot pads are perfect) down the sides. Then put this clamping board on your glued fret board and evenly space your clamps along the middle of the board, like in this post

    the pressure will be evenly distributed over the fretboard to neck join by the clamping board, your glue join will be pristine, your fretboard will be so perfectly flat that you won't even have to level your frets.

    So many people do it but when you clamp directly on your flexible fretboard, you are putting hotspots of pressure on the board that put valleys hundreds of micrometres deep in your fret board and push up hills around them. Try clamping an 8 mm thick piece of perspex and look at it with a pair of polaroid sunglasses and you will see the uneven spots of pressure. The more clamps you put on, the more valleys and hills you create.

    All the best with this project the wood looks fantastic.

  5. Hey SB, those photos are AWESOME :D thanks for sharing them. So it was a great night, those guys sure know how to put on a show. Hope they played some songs from Sonic BOOM :D

    I routed out the bucker hole

    2u6memf.jpg

    Next stage is to put the holes around the perimeter and screw the plate to the body

    14e9xrk.jpg

    and mark out the pickup routes. I think I am going to do the counter-sinking by hand rather than use a power drill, it is very easy to overdo it on 2mm of plastic. I decided to go with Gibson style/size scratchplate screws in stainless steel rather than Fender style in chrome.

    2cpdqn9.jpg

  6. Please tell me you jointed those pieces before gluing...

    Yeah, I don't have a jointer, but I planed them as flat as possible.

    You can use your router to get a perfect join, just put a straight edge along your wood and run along it with a pattern following bit, as low as it will go

    95u69y.jpg

    Then flip the wood over and run along the straight edge you have routed with a bit with a roller on the bottom,

    29x68sp.jpg

    Then repeat for other piece of wood, your join line will be razor thin. If the join you have doesn't look perfect, yes, I think Hizodge is right cracking it open is the way to go, good luck with it.

  7. Man, I was liking this so much until you put the pickguard on it... Now i hate it. It makes it look like those super cheap ibanez guitars that come in those beginner kits.

    :D Well bugger off then killemall, coz your really gonna hate whats coming up :D

    Found an old plate template that had a good single coil outline on it a

    11hz1c8.jpg

    and used that to cut the space in the present plate, started spacing out where the knobs are going to go

    a0fpk6.jpg

    Made an outline for the humbucker, this is an easy technique

    be6ba1.jpg

    and finished the template

    2uiklti.jpg

    Hey I am really missing Moth, I hope she sorts the drama out and comes back to the forum.

  8. Is that the final shape of the insides of the cutaways, near the neck pocket? They look REALLY wide and cumbersome to play around.

    On the top there is going to be a bit taken away, the bottom may or may not, still deciding on that one. As it is restriction on the pinky starts at fret 23, and both fret 23 and 24 can be played with the ring finger without any problem.

    You have to do it blue man. then it will win GOTM, koz geets win GOTM on acount of bein blue :D

    I definitely like the blue stain on the ash better than the red, it looks rust coloured on that wood, I guess the 'cherry red' stain needs some red in the wood to really work. I am getting some non stained bits in the grain though. I am hoping grain filling solves that problem.

    14wdg9f.jpg

    mine wont!! hehe.

    and ponyo!!!!!! yay!!!!!

    Your blue guitar is a winner anyway you look at it, ponyo is such a great movie, loved the bit when the mum is driving home in the storm, so surreal.

    I used this bit to put a slope on the edges of the plate

    9stlhl.jpg

    and used the technique explained at Stew Mac, put the plate up on a template with anti wobble scrap around it

    72dsno.jpg

    Inserts in the trem cut out and neck so they don't get slopped.

    and did a bit of routing around :D

    2nkl6t.jpg

  9. Here's the two colours on ash offcuts

    30ikdib.jpg

    I finished shaping the scratchplate, it needed a sliver taken of the bottom of the forward horn

    vq38zp.jpg

    So I rasped and sanded the template then shaved the plate

    maazwp.jpg

    While listening to Shadows Fall, love 'Redemption' and 'Another Hero Lost'

    5ob0w5.jpg

  10. I got a start on the scratchplate template and the plate itself. Straight edges first, I used the trem template on the rear and used the guitar as a template fro the neck pocket route.

    3142pmu.jpg

    The template isn't complete but I got a start on the plate. I made a sandwich of mdf on either side of the plate blank.

    14t9cmr.jpg

    And routed down until I could see the plastic was cut right through.

    4tnl6r.jpg

    Plate so far

    24o94hw.jpg

  11. good solid advice. :D

    As for drill bits - Rodman bits have no equal in my eyes. One bit can do steel , masonry , GLASS , tile and more. I absolutely love them , too bad I only have them at work and not home where I build.......... :D

    Wow, glass is something I have never drilled into before, I must check those drill bits out.

    My stains arrived this week

    ayx8jb.jpg

    I'll try them out soon.

    I made a template for the single coil, I used this pic as a guide

    32zswv8.jpg

    For the edges, I drilled an 18 mm hole with a spade bit in mdf and cut the piece in half

    qwwu9i.jpg

    Positioned edges and routed out the shape

    e8tipw.jpg

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