jefm

Hmmmm....a star sapphire dot job would be very very beautiful...too bad it'd be soo expensive

LOL I hope that's a reference to jehles thread...that's pretty funny

There is an italian company...eko I think that did that on thier guitars in the 70's they had a few models...one was a 3 coil pickup that could be moved on rails...I think it was Eko at least

Yeah...I've seen the q3 trick jumping stuff....some of it is crazy...I saw a video where a guy launched a grenade and did a rocket jump to the grenade that exploded in mid air and he cleared a massive room...very very insane I like more hide and seek type games... I've never been terribly fond of deathmatch because they lack consequence...except on really small levels...then they're a riot...rail arena is Sooo much fun Grrrrr....bunny hopping makes me crazy....they're always the first to go when I get a rocket launcher...

Q1 and Q2 are quite a bit better than quake 3... q3 was too much like unreal tournament...and OMG does that series suck Halflife is still the best anyway Has anyone seen the Doom 3 Demo... My friend can actually run it....OOoooooO Creepy...It's been a long time since a game scared me like that...and that's just a demo...

A bobbin is basically the plastic part of the pickup....the frame or chassis you could say and for the mini strobes you should be able to find battery powered ones that are about an inch around...the place I have in town has them...I'm not sure how much interference they introduce though

Yeah...it sets the mood for the goats....and they sell disco balls and...... No...it's for putting on the tractors and equipment...really bright ones

If that's the look you're going for just get a single coil PU bobbin...or make one I think people here have templates... the wiring shouldn't be too hard...

Yeah...from my experience...which is basically automotive type stuff unless it's scratches and scuffs that can be polished out it's easier to strip the panel and start over...with normal paint it's not so bad...with metallics the flakes all go on at once and any thing that looks like it was put on after stands out like crazy...So I might be wrong but from anything I've seen a touch up involving a sparkling finish usually makes it look worse than the damage... Actually the back of this guitar is what it can look like...Ewwwww http://www.warmoth.com/Showcase/wgp_body_d...temNumber=ps148

That could be funny... you can get some good small strobes from a farm supply retailer...that's where I got mine when I was a DJ

That's mind blowing...Every inch looks beautiful...

I'm not certain how much neons are like flourescent lights but they're almost cousins right??? Don't neons have a threshold where they basically don't work and then once they start up they need a high but not as high voltage to keep them up and running...they don't really have a "dim"...I have seen some that aren't at full brightness but never on purpose?? and wouldn't the camera flash just give a short burst...how could it be sustained?? I doubt the 9v would handle it It'd be a neat idea and it's not impossible but I'd imagine an external power source like what was mentioned a while ago... And the discharge of the flash would almost certainly be picked up even if it was well shielded... Meh...It's more trouble than I'd bother with... Ibanez made a guitar in the 80's that was clear and had lights in it...and they lit based on the frequency from the PU's...neat stuff...

http://espguitars.com/sig_max.htm

Err... sad to say but usually a flake finish can't be fixed without making the problem more obvious... even touching it while it's wet you're pretty screwed... see if you can maybe find an auto painting place that works with those kinds of finishes...they'd likely do the least bad job on it or you could just go with the base color and hope nobody looks too close... But unless you're really sure about it I'd just leave it I think toyota makes a holoflake finish...at least a black one for their new cars...it looks like you can jump into it it's sooo deep

Hmmm...neat idea And it should be easy to create something like that

I was actually thinking about this...as well Actual neon or flourescent lights would be a poor idea...maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're meaning...but last I checked those lights need a massive kick to get them going and a pretty decent current to keep them on... I'm not certain but the driver circuitry (which I think has a transformer) for them would demagnitize the PU's...and I know the flourescents in my house cause a pretty nasty hum LED's should be plenty fine...I was planning on doing the same thing...I love the look of my black white black pickguard...but I'd love to put a dragon in it...I remember Mazda using a material called perspex for the dashboard of one of the cars called the eunos cosmo...it was black and just looked like trim but allowed the gauges underneath shine through unimpeded what I'd like is something that looked like a normal pickguard but could become something different at the touch of a button.... and tinfoil makes a decent reflector...of course you could just use a flashlight reflector and mount the LED in that... I was going to mount several LED's just outside the edges of the design to help keep an even light...I don't know how strong you need to be to break through the transparancy though...but it looks like they have options for different opacities... http://www.perspex.co.uk/index_uk.htm This might help somewhat... :-)

Yeah free shipping and prices that beat the dealers over here even with the exchange... Unfortunately they don't ship to Canada...I asked :-( I did get a quick response though just over 24 hours so it might not be too bad

I came across this...it has pretty ok prices on some of gibsons stuff but what looks like really good prices on dimarzios (are these good prices???) http://www.gtrheaven.com/pickups/dimarzio1.htm and there's free shipping on orders over $100 (not hard to do with PU's) Are these guys trustworthy or should I look elsewhere...

Yeah I mostly commented on the web design to help with the class... I did like that it was a good intro to beginners... I don't know if you're done with it or plan to expand but it's a pretty decent start...but if you have an interest in the elecronics side of guitars it could turn into a valuable site if you continue it And to add my two cents on the magnets... I can't remember the resource but I heard the alnico magnets are stronger than ceramics in larger sizes...but the sizes used in pickups the ceramics are stronger... something like the ceramics are easier to align when small but as they get bigger that drops considerably...the alnico's get better... Again I can't remember the resource and I could have got the details muddled

Well....you COULD use plywood...at least for the body...

Errrr...I'm going to be completely objective here...so don't take this personally I know it was done for a class so you hit the requirements then go play guitar The colors and pictures and most of the layout of the site create a pretty unattractive combination... There is a few broken links - 3 single coil diagram - soldering tools - sethmetal guitar works The spelling is a little creative in places too Also for kicks I looked at your code for the front page It's cool that you're using style sheets although you really don't need them for this...it escapes me why you'd use 3 seperate files just for different font colors??? Also you go on to define the color anyway??? Being that humans are lazy expecially those involved with computers (Me included) I doubt you'd make that much of a mess using notepad...I'm guessing an editor...Most are crap...adobe go live is the only one I know that is easy and doesn't make a mess...It's expensive though...IBM websphere is good too but hard to find and expensive...arachnophilia is a great free text editor that highlites the tags...you can get that from download.com Stylesheets aren't really meant for small changes...they are basically meant to seperate the content and the formatting...so you can edit the content without changing the formatting or vice versa...really really crazy stuff can be done with them...much better for formatting than HTML...and combined with a little java absolutely mind blowing effects can be acheived... I guess I may have rambled there...but it's something I have quite a bit of experience in...if you need help with the class or something let me know Anyway...as far as content...it's pretty basic...a pretty good intro A few things that stood out to me You should mention what model the pickups are as an example of that particular breed the lipstick tube pickup you show...as far as I know it's just a look alike...the real ones are housed in a round casing....kinda odd looking actually...there's a pic of one about halfway down here... http://playmusicfree.com/musical_instrumen...ric_pickups.htm as well the soapbar PU is a P-90 ...the mini-humbucker is not...the p-90 is a single coil...as well with the ears on it I doubt the mini HB would fit in a soapbar hole I do like the animated coil tap diagram... but as was mentioned before...I prefer to work from actual schematic diagrams as opposed to the pictures...(that's personal preference) the option to select one or the other would be a good idea The soldering is a little simplistic...You should tin the iron once it's heated up then clean it...it gives a better heat transfer...also tinning the wires before soldering them makes life easier especially for stranded wire...for that you just heat the wire and touch the solder to it...it should give the whole area a thin coat...also twisting the wire to the connections gives you a better connection and eliminates the need to try to hold it...and takes a lot less solder Anyway...you asked what I thought and I pointed out what I noticed... It is a good start though if you do plan to keep the site up...

I'm not really sure if this applies to your guitar or not so you may want to hold out till someone confirms it... the parts that hold a TOM bridge are usually just pushed in and not held by anything (there is never any pressure applied to pull them out in normal usage)...so you could just thread something in and yank them out... they could be threaded in though...then you'd obviously just twist them out...

Most of the flame jobs they do at warmoth come off looking a little cheesy...this one is probably the classiest and most unique I've ever seen... http://www.warmoth.com/Showcase/wgp_body_d...temNumber=ps162 Once and a while they have some neat clear bursts...I don't think any right now though

Well I haven't done it before but from what I understand the dog ear ones are made to mount to the body and the screws go in the tabs and the soapbar's the mounting screws are in the middle of the pickup between the pole pieces(I love the way that looks too) at least this is what I've seen on most of them...unless you have something strange??

Yeah that's my experience... Also if you leave them on for a while the glue residue is a real pain to remove...I actually had a UPC on the back of the neck of mine...after removing it and cleaning it it took a few days before it felt as clean as the rest of the neck... Waterslides would be a cool idea if you're wanting something permanent... How big a decal can you do...I've been weighing the options between getting a decal printed or making a template and painting it...it'd just be monochrome lineart...maybe 6x6 at the largest... and do you ship to canada