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strummer2k

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Everything posted by strummer2k

  1. strummer2k
    Hey thanks for everyone's input. My situation is exactly as Daveq put it, you can move the neck a bit by pushing on the peghead. Guitar_ed - that is what I thought too, but the guy I talked didn't want to do it that way. You guys have definitely kept this project from going down the crapper on numerous occasions - I appreciate it.
  2. strummer2k
    I finally found what I was looking for, good 'ole Woodcraft. It is called a Precision Drill Guide in case anyone is interested and can be found here
  3. strummer2k
    Well, don't have a dremel yet. So, you just scored it with a utility knife over and over until got through(after drilling the end holes)? I will give that a shot, thanks again.
  4. strummer2k
    Dude, I like the body shape for the same reasons as everyone else - it's different. It has a Jazzmaster meets a Tele/Paul kinda vibe to it. One thing, I wonder if that switch position is gonna be easy to get to with the knobs right there.
  5. strummer2k
    I know I am posting alot of questions, but he**, I keep getting good answers Anyway, what do you use to cut a straight slot for a 3-way or 5-way pup switch. I am gonna mount it directly to the wood, so I want it to look right.
  6. strummer2k
    Man, I am trying to drill the holes for the strings on a tele body and my drill press (10 inch) will only reach the outside holes. I don't feel comfortable drilling by hand and having the holes not lining up on the back of the guitar. I may be crazy, but I thought I saw a rig somewhere that converts a hand drill to a cheap drill press. I have looked at Home Depot, Lowes and the Woodcraft catalog and cannot find the thing. Anyone have any ideas???
  7. strummer2k
    daveq, yeah, that sounds like it would work ( I think you posted this somewhere else because I remember the laser thing). So, the neck was made for me - no center line and it is already fretted. The body does have a center line where the maple caps were glued together. The back was a one piece mahogany (no centerline). I assume figuring out where to mark a center line on the neck would be pretty easy, but what would be safe to mark it with (pau ferro fingerboard)? And yeah, I will be using a drill press.
  8. strummer2k
    Morbden, you're kinda saying what I was thinking in that you have to have some kind of slotted nut to hold the strings in the right place. This guy at the store said to just throw a couple of tuners on the pegs, string up the E's and line it up. After driving off, I began thinking that there is no way that method would get the strings in the right place over the nut area.
  9. strummer2k
    I am about to drill the neck holes for a bolt-on project I am doing. I had the neck made for me and it came without the nut. I am almost finished with the body and I went down to the store where I get most of my setups and other work done to get them to install a nut in the neck. My thinking was to line up the neck with the two E strings installed and then mark the positions where I should drill. However, the guy said he couldn't put a nut in it until I had the neck attached. I have Hiscock's book at home, but I don't remember what it said, if anything, in regard to this. What do you guys usually do about drilling the neck holes?
  10. strummer2k
    Hey Litchfield, what guitar did you post. I can't read the headstock. I like the body shape almost as much as the drawing that started the thead.
  11. strummer2k
    What I was trying to say was the single coil mounting ring that I bought (also from Stewmac) here at least seems wrong for the template in that the outside screw holes will barely have any wood to bite into using the template as is and using the recommended bit and bearing that Stewmac sells. This is my first project, which is why I am asking so many questions and trying to be careful. Scott, what is a collar?
  12. strummer2k
    I just got through binding a tele front and back and basically ended up softening it a bit with a heat gun to conform to the basic shape using just a few pieces of tape to hold it down - no glue yet. It will kinda hold the curves a bit at this point and be a whole lot easier to work with. Then, I did what Drak laid out. I used the Stewmac white binding. You do have to be carefule with the heat gun or hairdryer though, it will absolutely burst into flames ruining not only your binding, but scorching the wood (nothing like learning the hard way).
  13. strummer2k
    I saw that tip about the tape somewhere else too. Can't remember if it was Myka or not. I will try that. The funny thing is that I got a single coil pickup cover from Stewmac as well(I know they don't make them). The single coil template is even too big for the pup cover - the screw holes don't have anything to bite into. Is any type of tape preferred? I assume you don't want anything that will compress very much as you roll the bearing along it. I have duct tape, masking tape, electrical, scotch...oh, and some binding tape. Drak, I agree the extra wiggle room is probably good, I re-measured and it is about a 1/8 inch extra all around the single (I really exaggerated when I said a 1/4 inch). Still - there would be very little for the pickup screws to bite into. Thanks for the input guys.
  14. strummer2k
    Does anyone have any experience with the Stewmac pickup templates? The strat or single coil one seems to be about a 1/4 in too large all the way around. I know you need some wiggle room, but do I really want to make a pickup route this big? Also, I have their humbucker and tele bridge pickup templates, but my pickups haven't arrived so I don't know if these will have the same problem. How much bigger than the pickup should a route be?
  15. strummer2k
    Thanks for all of the info guys. There is no way I could have come this far on this project without all of the wonderful help I have recieved here. Just one more question, the next time I bind something, is there a better to apply the glue than just squeezing out of the tube and onto the wood? I thought of using a small brush to apply it, but the stuff was drying pretty darn fast. I am using the StewMac glue btw.
  16. strummer2k
    I just completed my first attempt at binding and while the binding looks fine, I am a little worried about some places where I got a little sloppy with the glue. So, here are my questions: 1) I plan on sanding the glue off of the wood and binding. Is this the right approach or is there a better way. 2) Will any glue residue affect the finish if I don't get it completely out of the pores. I am guessing "yes". Thanks.
  17. strummer2k
    Wow, that guitar is obviously beautiful, but I am learning alot just seeing "how" you did some of those things. Especially that neck pocket rig, very cool. I wish I had seen that a little earlier.
  18. strummer2k
    I have some leftover laquer thinner, from what you said, that should work?
  19. strummer2k
    1) I have finished binding the front of the body I am building and am about to rout the back and put binding on that as well. However, there is gonna be a seam where the two ends of the binding meet, how do I avoid that? 2) I see it mentioned that people scrape any glue drippings off after the binding has had a chance to set. Couldn't you just use sandpaper to get rid of the glue as well as kinda leveling ( just a tiny bit) the binding with the wood? Thanks. (EDIT) I finally found a post that mentions using Acetone to melt some binding to patch up the gaps. Can anyone elaborate on this and can you get Acetone at Home Depot?
  20. strummer2k
    Ooops, right, thanks for the reminder.
  21. strummer2k
    I think I used the wrong term. Maybe drop-top isn't right. It is just a flat piece of maple that I am putting on a tele. I am not having to bend anything.
  22. strummer2k
    I am about to glue a drop-top onto a mahogany body. I have already spent way more on this than I expected Anyway, I only have a couple of quick grip clamps and was wondering if there was anything wrong with just applying alot of weight (like from a weight set) to the top after I glue it? I want to save some money here, but not at the risk of screwing something up.
  23. strummer2k
    Ok, ok, it was a newbie question. I guess I was just wondering if the glue and enough clamps would be enough to get the top attached. Anyway, I will proceed as you suggested. Thanks again.
  24. strummer2k
    Thanks for the quick replies guys. This is my first project and I am actually making it for a good friend of mine as a surprise. Anyway, from what both of you said, I can assume that it does need to be flat before cutting it out and glueing?
  25. strummer2k
    Got a nice piece of 1/4 quilt maple joined and glued. A week ago, I took it out to check the quilt and get an idea of where I wanted to cut out the body shape. Well, I took a damp paper towel and wiped it on there to kinda pop the grain out a bit, then I put it back in the box it shipped in. I was ready to cut it today and I took it out and it was warped about a quarter inch. Ouch. So I have applied a damp cloth to the other side, set it on a flat surface and then put as much weight on it as I could. Is this the right thing to do? Will it ever go flat enough to glue on to the body(or does it matter)? Any suggestions would be appreciated. It was kind of a expensive piece of wood and I feel like I made a really dumb-a$$ mistake.
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