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Entry for November 2019's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!

RDub

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About RDub

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  1. If you set the saddles at the same height as the frets, the strings will angle down from the nut to the saddle, being closer to the last fret than the first. I'm fairly certain if you try this the strings will buzz in open positions and get progressively worse as you go up the neck. Don't forget to factor in the path of the vibrating string when you ponder this. But what the heck, try it out and see how you make out!
  2. Did a refinish and changed pickguards on a couple of Ibanez RG's not to long ago. When I inquired about gettin them made from one of the internet custom pickguard suppliers, they told me RG pickguards can vary depending on which factory they were made in and would only make them if you supply the original or a tracing of it to them. My suggestion, since you'll be making your own, is to use it for a template. You'll have to figure out the pickup locations on your own, but with your background in machining, I think you should be able to handle it. Just center the SC up on the humbucker location and you're good to go.
  3. all depends on body size and stiffness of the wood. I usually start flexing and feeling things around .125" with Sitka for an SJ or OM. The last 2 I did ended up at .120" and the other top I had went to .110 for an OM. Usually I see people recommend .125" for spruce. When you've done a few you develop a sense for the stiffness and can feel and hear when it's where you want it.
  4. Just learned something. I just read, and can't verify the accuracy of this, but... Thining will make laquer dry quicker, and be worse than brushing straight. You use retarder instead, because it slows drying time allowing the product to flow out better. Makes sense. Also makes sense to add a little time to your cure time before leveling than with straight laquer.
  5. And I agree with Avenger's earlier post sayin a quality fine bristle brush isn't neccesary. If you don't use one though, you'll be more prone to bubbles and brush marks and spend more time level sanding....
  6. I can't answer your question. I'd suggest going over to Target Coatings website and asking it on the forum there. Jeff Weiss from Target is great to deal with and will be able to tell you the hows and whys.( or why nots) And if you're gonna do tests, you shouldn't have results by midweek. You should test the full finish schedule, includeing all the coats and a full cure time....
  7. OK, First go on over to kit guitar forum or the OLF and search water based lacquers. And search here too, I've posted on them, and a lot of good stuff on the other boards. Hate to plug the other sites, but that's where the info is. Second, I have no experience with Stew Mac's product, but I use Target coatings EM-6000, which is a replacement for Their USL, which is what Stew Mac relabels and sells. Third, you can brush water based lacquer. But, you don't THIN it. You need to add RETARDER, 15-20% by volume. It, does burn in so no witness lines. You want to use a very fine bristled brush, and put on very thin coats to keep brush marks to a minimum. I recomend the Davinci brushes Target sells in their website. I found that NOT loading the brush helps get a smoother coat. And keep the brush nearly perpendicular to the surface to avoid bubbles. I like to put on @ 6 coats then level, then @ 6 more level again, and if I get no sand through, I'll put on 3 more, let cure a week, level, micro mesh to 2000, then hand buff with Mequirs products. You can even use TransTint or Mixol pigments to create toners and shaders, although you don't need retarded if you use pigments. Make sure you get the ones for Waterbased.
  8. Thanks for all the props guys. I'm surprised though. I must be getting better. Nobody even mentioned the missing truss rod cover yet Just noticed it myself... Great work by everyone this month. Especially the Raven and the Drifter. Such a toss up between those two, I couldn't pick, so I voted for myself. I'm really liking all the new body shapes out there. Most aren't my personal taste, but it's great seeing people not just making copies. Keep up the good work
  9. Ok I'll start it off, my latest acoustic,we'll call it the Lone Wolf Specs: OLF-SJ 14 fret to body 25.5 scale length Top: Engleman Spruce Back and sides and Headplate: Zebrawood Binding: Koa Neck: Mahogany Fingerboard and Bridge: Pau Ferro Tuners: Gotoh Open Back Finish: Target Emtech 6000
  10. Comiccaster hands down for me this month. Not a comic fan, but I love the look of the chrome edging. Lots of great and different stuff this month. Thanks for posting up everyone.
  11. Davee gets the nod from me this month. Really don't have much to say except, if that's your first, I can't wait to see the next ones. Great job. Dickie comes in a close second. Really dig that shape. Great job by all!
  12. I like it all except sanding and finishing equally. But I did find a new thing to enjoy, the smell Pau Ferro gives off when you work it. MMMMM, cinnamon!
  13. I gotta go with low end fuzz, although I agree with the previous posts about the headstock. Would've looked nicer with the lacewood on the top. I like the understated look of the wood fret markers and pickguard. #2 definately the Green LP. Awsome job on the finish. Not a big fan of gold hardware, but I like it here. Great job to everyone. They all look great. Hopefully I'll have one to put up next month. Got 4 in the works!!
  14. Great poitsn Setch. Forgot about the large flat surface of the tenon on the bottom...
  15. When people do neck resets on acoustics, they pull a fret at the neck joint, and after measurung carefully, drill a smell hole into the neck joint through the fret slot. Then, using a special setup with a hose and needle, they put steam through the hole into the neck joint to loosen the glue. Look on the OLF for a tutorial, I think there's some there. And check Stew Mac for the equipment. I've seen people rig up a pressure cooker for the steam, or an espresso maker, but I caution you. Steam can build up VERY high pressures, and you must have a relief of some sort, so you don't blow yourself up. Don't see why that wouldn't work for an electric too.
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