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Spidy Project


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i like the way with the switch being up there but it might mess up the wood more. Well thats nice silvertone. Oh tiny cavities. Smaller that usual then adding a tube in there so i can send cables in and out. And that you for your

wait, screw my idea thats even better
line i think i hit it good its my idea mixed with your

i love my new one

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I think those knob locations will severely weaken the legs. Not a good idea. Drilling the holes to them won't be too much of a problem, as you can go in from the neck pickup cavity, but you'll have to use shielded wire, because you're going to be looking at a lot of really long runs of wire to get each pickup hooked up to its own volume and tone control, then to the pickup selector, then out to the output jack (wherever that's going to be). A big tangled web of wiring, if you will.

And you still haven't resolved the upper-fret access with the top pairs of legs being so close to the neck.

But i think you're on the right track... your design was getting a little too watered down, and youv'e gone back to the purity of the original idea. But i think this will end up being much more of a "show" guitar than a highly playable piece. And there's nothing wrong with that. Make what your heart is telling you to, and don't rely so much on the input of others. Especially me. :D

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my heart says playable and looking cool. Yeah thanks for reminding me the things i did on the newer versions before this. The cavity is wierd for me so someone please thak the pic and tell me where the knobs should go. Want it to look cool to so help with the knob problem.

new6.gif

they are extended a little. I will do more extending if needed

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Hey Monkey,

Your design started off... "lacking", to put it politely, but I respect the persistence and work you're putting into it, and the new design is the first that I'm able to say without feeling like I'm lying to you, "Cool! Not Bad!"

My problem is with the OUTSIDE shape-- in other words, if you drew a line around the guitar and then blanked out all the details (ie. the legs, etc), you'd be left with pretty much an oval.

Most guitar outlines are very simple to begin with, but feature some sort of recognizable silhouette that you'd pick out from a distance. If I saw a Strat, Tele, Les Paul, or Warlock from a distance, I'd know it was one of those guitars. If I saw yours from a distance, I fear that I'd see an unremarkable oval.

Now, don't get me wrong. I'll go back to my original point for a second-- I'm really and HONESTLY liking the design and the direction it's taking. But I would personally say "screw comfort" and make a few more radical design elements. Branching the legs out a bit more is my first thought, and it would help you get that upper fret access, too.

Greg

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thecrab.gif

i call it the crab. Well its a spider but endded up as a crab. Someone can take the design i dont care. Can someone tell me how to make my Spidy Project more bad A!@. And now im taking advise. Greg im not listening to the part about the oval. Who cares. You are supposed to look at it close. If you are looking for shapes in a distance go look at a banjo for your circle and a firebird for your rhombus

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Another thing to consider, if you still sort of want to think about comfort--

Take a picture off the internet of a guitar that has similar dimensions and comfort levels to what you want. You're going to get rid of almost everything about that picture, though, but it COULD serve as a launching point--

Using the neck pocket as a reference point, draw JUST the neck pocket and the 'waist' from the guitar in question. That way at least you'll know you're in good company with other successful guitars. Ie, something like this:

Taking Warmoth's "LPS" (double-cut Les Paul) shape as a starting point:

WarmothLPS.jpg

And then I used Paint Shop Pro to quickly rough out where the neck pocket and waist were, in another layer. I then saved the layer separately:

StartingPoint.jpg

Then, when you're deciding where to put the legs, it can be a basic starting point, with the flexibility to move it around as needed.

Now, I actually don't like the ergonomics of a double-cut Les Paul even though it's probably my favourite type of guitar, so you can always pick a different symmetrical guitar as a launching point; or if it's asymmetrical (like the Beast or Warlock) you can just use the bottom half and mirror it on the top.

Greg

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Here is what I changed, upper fret access is a necessity in good guitar design, that's the main reason the Leviathan has the lower horn so scooped and moved back so far.

This still gives your symmetry, kills the oval shape a bit, and allows the access, I also thickened up the outside legs for strength. Although a little less convenient, I put the knobs on the bottom of the guitar as in the legs will make them very weak.

I think if you used this layout the legs would be strong enough. Those legs are going to be probably 1.5" x 1.5" thick, go cut a piece of maple that size and see how much force it takes to break it, you're not going to easily do it. Remember the weakest point on an Ibanez is the nut section of the neck, it's about 14mm thick and only 43mm wide (where the lock nut is, not the 17mm thick portion of the playing part. The ONLY way these break is if they're dropped.

Also, check your measurements, based on where the neck will fit, your pickup spacing looks way to far apart and your bridge to far back, you need to remember to keep your scale length in tact or you'll never be able to tune or intonate it.

new6.gif

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I wouldn't bother with carbon fiber for a couple reasons.

First of all, putting rods in will be pointless unless you can manufacture rods in the shape of your spider legs. Otherwise you can't run a straight rod through all of those legs. It's just not possible. The truth is, I don't think you'll need them,

those legs are all as thick as the flames on Vai's guitar here and I don't ever remember hearing of those breaking terribly easily. Remember, wood is stronger than you think.

gtr048.jpg

If you are dead set on using carbon fiber the ONLY way it will REALLY be effective on those legs is you would have to laminate a carbon weave along the sides of each leg, that will be a major pain in the butt and carbon fiber is deadly to work with in a couple of aspects, I use it in fiberglass composite fuselages for airplanes and it's not a substance to mess around with casually. The Carbon itself shatters into microscopic slivers that can get into your blood stream. Many of the resins in epoxy are carcinogenic when heated and once your resin is cured into the carbon, sometimes the only way to cut it is to grind it with a dremel or other similar tool.

I honestly wouldn't worry about it, Carbon fiber also causes RF interference which means if you did use it on the legs you'd have to do some better shielding than normal in your electronics cavities. My only real suggestion would be to not put any pots in the legs, or if you do, put it into the inside leg that won't be sitting on anything anytime, at least then the weakest area isn't in the place of the most contact.

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