silvertonessuckbutigotone Posted February 9, 2005 Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 HEY GUYS IM A TOTAL n00b AND BEAR WITH ME BECAUSE I WANT TO KNOW EVERYTHING ABOUT GUITAR BUILDING IN ONE SENTANCE READY SET GO! Just kidding. Back on topic. Ok, I got some maple in today I'm using for my neck on my RR V coming up. You see, it came in 2 peices and the big peice is like 4 inches too short for my design, so I just planned on glueing the short peice right onto the end of the long peice. I've seen people have joints that are angled (scarf joints I think their called?) and I've seen people have flat joints (usually on multiple-peice bodies and neck laminations). I was just wondering, would it be really beneficial for me to have some elaborate joint so it will fit together perfectly like a puzzle, or could I do just a butt-joint, or should I have an angled joint, etc. Just to make sure everyone knows it would be perpendicular to the string tension (parralell to frets). Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted February 9, 2005 Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 In your design, is the headstock a separate piece, or one with the rest of the neck? As it stands, where would the joint be placed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 9, 2005 Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 i would do a scarf joint... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvertonessuckbutigotone Posted February 9, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 (edited) The joint can be basically anywhere I want it to be in the neck. I also forgot to mention, the joint would only be about an inch across total because I'm laminating this peice of maple with ebony and purpleheart. So not ALL the stress would be on it. Thanks for the post Wes. Edited February 9, 2005 by silvertonessuckbutigotone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 9, 2005 Report Share Posted February 9, 2005 i would put it in the normal place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted February 10, 2005 Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 I also forgot to mention, the joint would only be about an inch across total because I'm laminating this peice of maple with ebony and purpleheart. Ok, I see. In that case, I agree with Wes. The puzzle piece stuff is fine for Japanese joinery, but simpler is better in this case, and a butt joint is worthless in almost any situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silvertonessuckbutigotone Posted February 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 wheres the normal place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 10, 2005 Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 between the first and second fret Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted February 10, 2005 Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 In other words, so that the glue joint is in line with the back of the headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 10, 2005 Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 i think that is a good way to do it...but my ibanez sabre 540 fm does not do it that way...don't ask me why though... maybe someone else could enlighten me? but i have never done a scarf joint...i intentionally buy my wood long enough not to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank falbo Posted February 10, 2005 Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 The idea behind nudging it up to the 2nd fret is to have it under the board, for added laminate strength, and to take it out of the "hot zone". It also leaves enough wood to carve the transition, and possibly a volute. If you moved it back into line with the headstock you couldn't do a volute. It's ironic that Ibanez only started doing a volute after they switched to laminate neck construction, and did away with the scarf joint. Also it was after almost 20 years of headstocks cracking at the lock nut bolt area. I guess it just takes that long sometimes I also wouldn't want a joint right where the end of the truss rod, for fear of blowout. Without a volute, that area is already weak enough. I know the glue joint is stronger than the wood, etc. But when you get real thin, joints have a tendency to fail. Also since the wood is cut there, there's more tendency for it to fail on either side of the joint than if it were a solid piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted February 10, 2005 Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 The idea behind nudging it up to the 2nd fret is to have it under the board, for added laminate strength, and to take it out of the "hot zone". It also leaves enough wood to carve the transition, and possibly a volute. makes sense.thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 10, 2005 Report Share Posted February 10, 2005 I am a little unclear about what you will be trying to do . I have a couple of questions if you don't mind helping me understand what you will be doing. 1. What are the actual dimensions of the Maple,Ebony, and Purpleheart that you are wanting to use? 2. Will you be doing an angled headstock or flat? 3. How wide will the Ebony and Purpleheart stringers be (I am assuming this will be a total of 3 pieces and then Maple-- M/PH/E/PH/M or M/E/PH/E/M). The thing that is not making sense to me is the 4" too short. If it is an angled headstock you will need approx 7"+ (or there abouts) for the headstock. If I am reading this correctly it sounds like you need to add 4" to the stock that will be laminated to get them all to the min. length and then you will cut again after you laminate the pieces to get the angle in the headstock (if it is to be angled)? If you try to add to the Maple around the 2nd fret, then laminate and again cut for your neck angle (I am picturing 2 small joints in the Maple stringers and a joint in the laminated stock,all around the 2nd fret).As soon as I know how big the pieces of wood that you plan on using are and if you plan on an angled headstock or not this will probably all make sense. If the questions seems stupid you can just dis-regard them. Peace, Fryguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.