fryovanni Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 Thanks for nice words on the Explorer. That is a shop project that I am helping a coworkers son with. He put together a body and didn't know where to go from there. So I am helping him along a bit. I have a good template for my truss rods. I usually use a router and guide or my overhead table. When you route the channel I would recommend stopping before you get to the nut area, and them route back twards the nut area from the headstock side. This will leave the wood under the nut in tact, and then use a drill to connect the channels. It seems to work well and is a little cleaner. Not hard to do at all. As for the truss rod. Hot rods are good, but I really prefer the LMI style that have the flat bar that sets behind the fretboard.They don't require as deep of a channel, and you have a flat bar against the fretboard instead of a round rod. They cost a couple bucks more, and the Hot Rods will work fine. The LMI rods design is better IMO, and a little extra material between the rod and back of the neck is really nice on a thinner profile neck. BTW I use both Hot Rods and the LMI rods. I am not saying that one or the other won't do the job, just one seems a little nicer. This is going to be so cool to see one of those lethal bodys and your neck, 100% Matt-Meister built . Keep the pics coming!!! Peace, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 (edited) Ok Ok Iam going to give it a try Iam going to build a fretboard for this neck as well BUT if it sucks when its' done iam buying one! , that's a pic of the wood I will be useing I have a good template for my truss rods. I usually use a router and guide or my overhead table. When you route the channel I would recommend stopping before you get to the nut area, and them route back twards the nut area from the headstock side. This will leave the wood under the nut in tact, and then use a drill to connect the channels. It seems to work well and is a little cleaner. Not hard to do at all. Ya man I was going to ask you about that I saw that on your neck and I thought It looked deadly and It makes more sence to do it like that anyway right it give's it more for the nut to hold on to! Man realy thanks for all the info your realy helping to make this an enjoyable experience for me I will have more questions. !!METAL MATT!! Edited February 22, 2005 by !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 hey matt good to see you are making some progress! If your dong your own fingerboard I would SERIOUSLY sugest getting the table say blade for slotting the fingerboard. Sure it's a little bit pricy but trust me it will save you a lot of nasty headachs. Sloting with a saw is hard as hell. I dont know how I lucked out and pulled it off but the next neck I do I will definitly be getting the table saw blade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MzI Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 I personally have no trouble slotting a board by hand as long as the board is not ebony, if your using that flamed maple you should be able to fly right through it, just measure 2 or 3x and then cut MzI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 22, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 I personally have no trouble slotting a board by hand as long as the board is not ebony, if your using that flamed maple you should be able to fly right through it, just measure 2 or 3x and then cut Ok but is there any way that I could cut the fret slots with maybe a template or a Jig?, also is there any info on where to place my cuts for the frets or can I just copy a premade fretboard? also should I cut the slots first and then profile it? and one more thing how thick should I make the board before the inlay is done? !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePlague Posted February 22, 2005 Report Share Posted February 22, 2005 there are fret placement calculators online. the sites of any of them escape me right now, but i know people on this site can recommend one. there's also some common scales in the back of melvyn hiscock's book. i'd cut the slots and then profile it. i don't know how others do it though. 1/4" is a pretty standard thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 23, 2005 Report Share Posted February 23, 2005 Matt, Cutting slots is kinda painful, and if I had a table saw set up I would be much more exited about slotting. I will attach a link to the shot of my slotting set up. It actually in the Explorer folder. Slotting setup As you can see its home made. The main thing about setting up your guide is to be sure the blade guides are tight enoungh to keep the slot square,and the guides stop the saw at the correct depth for the tang. Also set it up so that you lock or clamp the piece before you start sawing. I dunno if ya have a saw yet, but make sure the kerf of the saw is correct width for the tang width. As for the layout. I design my fretboards in CAD. I print them on HEAVY Mylar and just tack glue the template to the fret board. I mark the outside edges and then start cutting each slot with the lines on the template as a guide. It has proven to be very accurate. Be sure not to cut the shape of the board until after you slot it. You will need to have a good straight side on the fretboard blank to keep you square in the slotting guide. I hope that makes sense. P.S. if you don't have access to CAD or a plotter. PM me and I will set you up. Luck Dude, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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