!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ZAD...ALERandNECK.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ZAD...ewheadstock.jpg Ok I know this is just some wood sofar but very soon it will be the next IMPALER and a neck, that's right I said it "a neck" Iam going to try to build my own neck !!IT'S ABOUT DAM TIME!! right any way this is some maple I just bought for the build it cost me 40.00$$CAD bucks the wood is over 6 feet long, 2 1/2 inchs thick, and 9 inches wide, more than anough for a body and neck the plan for the next IMPALER is this Iam painting the body black aswell as the neck, on the body I will be useing an EMG-707, a hipshot bridge, and one push/pull V/T pot, and for the fretboard iam going with figerd maple with black dimond inlays and a flamed maple truss rod cover this one is going to be alot of fun I hope it turns out! If you have any tips, info, ideas or suggestions please feal free to add it in !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xebryusguitars Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 Sweet man, maybe for the next impaler, you should use korina. i would like to see that. Cant wait to see this thing at work. Oh yeah, your maple set should be coming today. (17th) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 (edited) Sweet man, maybe for the next impaler, you should use korina. i would like to see that Hay man It's funny that you said that I was just looking at some last night I almost got but I just did not have enough money for it and it had such a deadly looking flame to it it almost made want it over the maple but I need to learn how to paint so Iam staying with the maple but DAM it was some nice korina EDIT:> by the way is there a step by step tutorial on building a 7-string neck with alot of pic's !!METAL MATT!! Edited February 17, 2005 by !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 (edited) by the way is there a step by step tutorial on building a 7-string neck with alot of pic's blush.gif Have look at this Custom neck Tutorial Edited February 17, 2005 by RGGR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moreau Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 yo matt, looks like you get alot more accomplished than i do... wish i had the time to get started soon. but its gonna be a sweet axe. maples pretty heavy though for a whole axe. but its doable. i cant wait to see more progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 Have look at this Custom neck Tutorial thanks that should help alot man , I think I can do this I do have a few Qustions. 1. how do I rout the truss rod cavity? 2. how deep does the truss rod cavity need to be? 3. what would be the best way for me to cut the headstock at an angle? 4. do I put the fretboard on first than cut the rough shape of the neck? 5. can I use a large round over router bit to start the neck shapeing on it back? 6. can I cut an angled headstock out of a 2 1/2 inch thick board? 7. where can I find all the measurements I will need to build a neck? Like I said I have never built a neck before thanks for the INFO !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 From my experience with black limba, I would stay away from it (or Korina) for a metal guitar. I think there was another person here on PG who wasn't thrilled with it's low end either but I can't remember who it was. Maybe it's the pic but that maple looks strange to me. Is it hard maple or soft maple? Maybe it's heart wood or something - I've just never seen that kind of coloring in hard maple before. What type of truss rod are you planning on using? I would not use the round-over bit unless you are really comfortable doing so. I have never needed to use one (I know some people do). Shaping the back of the neck goes faster than you would probably think even with 100% hand tools. I use sand paper, scraper, rasp, ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 17, 2005 Report Share Posted February 17, 2005 Have look at this Custom neck Tutorial I do have a few Qustions. 1. how do I rout the truss rod cavity? 2. how deep does the truss rod cavity need to be? 3. what would be the best way for me to cut the headstock at an angle? 4. do I put the fretboard on first than cut the rough shape of the neck? 5. can I use a large round over router bit to start the neck shapeing on it back? 6. can I cut an angled headstock out of a 2 1/2 inch thick board? 7. where can I find all the measurements I will need to build a neck? Like I said I have never built a neck before thanks for the INFO !!METAL MATT!! ← hey I can anwer some of those 1. before you do anything mark where you need the neck on your peice of wood. Than draw out where you want your truss rod. Than useing a table router with a fence (a peice of board clamped to the table that you slide the wood along so it's cuts strait) rout out the channel (a little bit of depth at a time) Put stops on the ends of teh fence where you want to end the channel. 2. that depends on the truss rod your using. It needs to sit flush with the top of the neck. 4. I assume your talking about the sides, like not rounding the back profile, in which case no. Right after you rout the truss rod channel the next step is too cut out the shape of teh neck with a bandsaw. Than you slot the finger board. Than you insert the truss rod and glue on the finger board ( I wont go into detail as thers plenty of tutorials that show everything). You glue on teh fingerboard a little bit oversized than use a pattern trim bit and using the neck as the template rout the fingerboard perfect. Than you can shape the back of the neck. 5. I guess you COULD. But trust me you dont need too. With just a hand rasp and a power hand sander I finished profileing the back of my neck in 10 minutes. It's really not hard at all. I was REALLY worried going into that but it was all for not. That was one of the easiest steps I did on the neck! 7. I patterned my neck off of my godin. Just find a neck you think feels 'right' and take some measurments. You'll want the nut width, width at heel, and how thich it is from the back to the front in various places. If you need a fret calculator to get teh spacing use this one. I HIGHLY recomend buying a good quailty ruler with 64th measurments. Otherwise you wont get the frets perfect (and trust me you DONT want that). Lucky enough for me I found some rulers like that in my shop that I inherited from my grandfather when he died. sorry I cant help you with the angled headstock questions but i've never done one Well I hope all this helps! Just take it slow and dont worry. I was scared as hell when I started working that expensive peice of cocobolo but now it's all freted and finished and it looks BEAUTIFUL! And it was easier (and alot more fun) than I ever imagined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 Maybe it's the pic but that maple looks strange to me. Is it hard maple or soft maple? Maybe it's heart wood or something - I've just never seen that kind of coloring in hard maple before. It's hard maple there are a few reasons for the color 1. it's not cleaned up yet 2. It's a bit spalted 3. bad pics 4. it's coverd with dust thanks guy's for all the info sofar it's realy helping!! !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 Matt, you can get an angled headstock out of 2 1/2" but maybe not as long as you might like for a 7 string. Draw it out on some paper like in the neck angle tutorial. Another concern is grain runout, which makes for a weak point where the head angles away from the plane of the neck. That is the main reason for a seperate, scarf jointed headstock. Hard maple is freakin luscious when it gets spalty! You are in for a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 be carful with that maple if it's spalted. Spalting is a fungus that GREATLY reduces the strgenth of teh wood. It basicly makes the wood like cork. It's not a very good idea to make a neck out of spalted wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 be carful with that maple if it's spalted. Spalting is a fungus that GREATLY reduces the strgenth of teh wood. It basicly makes the wood like cork. It's not a very good idea to make a neck out of spalted wood. ← Iam not to woried about it man It's barely spalted and and its' still rock hard if it's wount work it will at least be a learning experience is there any kind of a chemical treatment that would stop the spalting?? !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 (edited) normally with a VERY spalted top you would go over it with CA to seal it. But if you think it's nice and hard dont worry about it. It should be fine. hey is that peice of wood big enough to make a neck through thats where the whole body and neck are one peice? That would SO rock. Man I really want to do one like that but I'm having trouble finding a peice of maple big enough. Edited February 18, 2005 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 Matt - Just use your judgement on it - I've seen necks built with spalt before and I've built a couple myself. Since each piece really has it's own unique properties, it's hard for anyone to know without examining it whether it is suited well for a neck. My very non-scientific advice would just be to bend it a bit after the piece is roughly cut. If it bends very easily, obviously it's no good. It doesn't appear to have any "punky" sections from the pic. I'm looking forward to seeing it come together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 (edited) hey is that peice of wood big enough to make a neck through thats where the whole body and neck are one peice? That would SO rock. Man I really want to do one like that but I'm having trouble finding a peice of maple big enough. Hey man now that would be cool and there is a ton of wood there so I could do a neck through but I think that would be a bit to extrem for my first neck build wouldent it? is it harder to do if not I would love to try it Just use your judgement on it - I've seen necks built with spalt before and I've built a couple myself. Since each piece really has it's own unique properties, it's hard for anyone to know without examining it whether it is suited well for a neck. My very non-scientific advice would just be to bend it a bit after the piece is roughly cut. If it bends very easily, obviously it's no good. It doesn't appear to have any "punky" sections from the pic. I'm looking forward to seeing it come together! thanks dave I think I will use this maple it is still realy hard, I cant even dent it !!METAL MATT!! Edited February 18, 2005 by !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted February 18, 2005 Report Share Posted February 18, 2005 hey is that peice of wood big enough to make a neck through thats where the whole body and neck are one peice? That would SO rock. Man I really want to do one like that but I'm having trouble finding a peice of maple big enough. Hey man now that would be cool and there is a ton of wood there so I could do a neck through but I think that would be a bit to extrem for my first neck build wouldent it? is it harder to do if not I would love to try it Just use your judgement on it - I've seen necks built with spalt before and I've built a couple myself. Since each piece really has it's own unique properties, it's hard for anyone to know without examining it whether it is suited well for a neck. My very non-scientific advice would just be to bend it a bit after the piece is roughly cut. If it bends very easily, obviously it's no good. It doesn't appear to have any "punky" sections from the pic. I'm looking forward to seeing it come together! thanks dave I think I will use this maple it is still realy hard, I cant even dent it !!METAL MATT!! ← Ya If you think it's a good peice than use away! It should work fine and it will look much better than a regular plain pamle neck. And the neck through theing. Ya I think it would be better if you diddnt do it for a first neck build. Umm I think it's harder. But I am by NO means an expert. All I know is I built a neck and it turned out perfect and my next guitar is going to be a 1 peice neck through of wenge. I think the hardeset part would be lining up everything correctly... I gotta go find some tutorials on how to do a neck through. Anybody got any places to start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2005 Man Iam loveing this broken B.C Rich neck Iam learing so much from it that Iam kinda glade that the dam thing is dead I can realy see how this neck thing works, the trussrod cavity, the fretboard, the headstock, the shape of the neck it's self,and all that this is realy fun anyway Iam not doing a "scarf joint" anymore, I did some thinking and some measuring and I can just cut the whole thing out of the one board! man I have not had this much fun in awhile, I love this building necks stuff! !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2005 NICE!! Ok I got started on the neck today and sofar so good Iam realy likeing how this came out!! I got it just a bit wet in the one spot so that's what that dark spot is behind the headstock just so you guys don't freak out hears more pics http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ZAD...ARS/myneck2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ZAD...TARS/Myneck.jpg And this is where iam geting my INFO from! man thanks for the deadly Tutorial rhoads56 http://www.monaro.com.au/guitar/1.htm So what do you guy's think !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 Matt, I see the runnout but I don't think it would make sense to stop. That wood is not perfectly flatsawn and the grain seems to kinda curl around a bit. I guess its not desirable but I doubt its gonna break because of it. Maybe go a bit heavy on the volute as thats the weakest link anyway, if your worried about it. Please let one of the other guys around here who are smarter than me confirm all that. Man that style of neck building is almost exactly what I do for neck thru (obviously I have the body wood also). If ya wanna see what I do on the neck thru I have pics on my Yahoo album. P.S. Keep that block square and true so you don't cut the headstock at a twisted angle. Not that twisted is all that bad, I've been kinda twisted for years. You will need it spot on though. My Yahoo Album Lookin good mister! Keep those progress shots coming!!! Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 (edited) Matt, I see the runnout but I don't think it would make sense to stop. That wood is not perfectly flatsawn and the grain seems to kinda curl around a bit. I guess its not desirable but I doubt its gonna break because of it. Maybe go a bit heavy on the volute as thats the weakest link anyway, if your worried about it. Please let one of the other guys around here who are smarter than me confirm all that. Man that style of neck building is almost exactly what I do for neck thru (obviously I have the body wood also). If ya wanna see what I do on the neck thru I have pics on my Yahoo album. P.S. Keep that block square and true so you don't cut the headstock at a twisted angle. Not that twisted is all that bad, I've been kinda twisted for years. You will need it spot on though. My Yahoo Album Lookin good mister! Keep those progress shots coming!!! Rich ← WOW! man thanks for the pic's I was woundering at what stage I could do the truss rod cavity, anyway Iam not realy all that worried about the runnout but It is good to know for the next one!! and again man thanks for the Pic's and deadly looken Explorer as you can tell I have become a real fan of the Explorer design lately what with the IMPALER and all. EDIT:> Ok one more thing how would I go about building a trussrod cavity cuting Jig, is there a set way of doing it?, also do I have to stagger my cut's or can I just make one cut and set the rod in? !!METAL MATT!! Edited February 21, 2005 by !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 What type of rod are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 What type of rod are you using? ← Well I hope to be useing the one out of my broken B.C Rich neck but iam not sure what type it is! !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePlague Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 if you're using a hotrod from stew mac (which are extremely easy to use) then you just make one cut. all you need is a router table set up with a fence for the neck to run against. you mark on your neck where you want the cavity to end, and then mark on the fence (if it isn't already) where the bit ends. i don't know about the bc rich rod though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted February 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 Ok these my help a bit but iam not sure because the pic's do realy suck! http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ZAD...S/trussrod2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/ZAD...RS/trussrod.jpg I think I may end up useing a hotrod if this one will be harder to use. !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orgmorg Posted February 21, 2005 Report Share Posted February 21, 2005 from what I can see, it looks like a martin style truss rod with the aluminum box channel? Measure the width. If it is 15/32" wide like the ones stew-mac sells, you can get a router bit that size. They are sometimes called undersize dado bits, made for routing grooves for 1/2" plywood, which is not quite 1/2" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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