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Stereo Wiring Help Needed!


Sambo

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Hello Y'all.

I'm making a copy of a musicman petrucci (pics coming soon :D) with a piezo bridge pickup (in this case a Baggs X-bridge). Now, i've got the wiring sorted on a stereo jack, but, i want to have another jack, that when a jack is plugged into it it turns both jacks into mono (one for magnetic, one for piezo) Anyone got any ideas on how to achieve this?!

Thanks!

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Some home stereos have a headphone jack that allows the audio to pass to the speakers unless headphones are plugged in. A lot of those have extended prongs, that would touch contacts until you plugged in the headphones; then the plug would push the prongs far enough to break the contact(s) for the speakers. However, when you consider how prone that type of connection is to RFI, you probably want to avoid it.

I would think that a mini-switch would be easier and less prone to problems.

D~s

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No problem. Take a stereo (TRS) jack and bend the ring finger so it touches the top of the tip finger without a plug in the jack. Make sure the insertion of a plug lets the two fingers seperate just a bit but the tip finger still has good contact with the tip of the plug. You can buy them like this but probly hard to find. Take the pickup wire off the ring connection of the other jack and attach it to the tip connection of your modified jack. Run a jumper from ring connection to ring connection. Presto! Rickenbacher split-pickup jack!

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Sambo, I have been wrong before (lord knows) but Rickenbacher and Ed Roman NEVER have! Just ask Ed! lol lol lol lol, etc. :D

By the way, there will be no RFI, GMC, TWA or UFO interference problems with this jack/switch. It just has to make "decent" connection when the tip and ring fingers come together. Don't know the body style of this axe but shield everything, when possible. As always!

Edited by thedoctor
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Explain the body style to me. Shielding of a solid-body is best done with the copperfoil/tape but some body styles make that impossible. If you are dealing with cavities carved/routed out of solid wood, copperfoil is the best. Semi-hollows take a completely different treatment. The conductive paint is not only a comprimise IMHO but you can do the coppershield faster and cheaper. You can solder to the coppershields and you don't have to mask off anything to do it. Also, no drying time. If you are looking at two output jack orifices (which I think you are) the output jack holes need to be shielded as well. Then all shielding needs to be hooked together with a seperate ground conductor. The pockets for the output jacks is where I always have problems. Seems any stray strands always find the shielding.

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By the way, there will be no RFI, GMC, TWA or UFO interference problems with this jack/switch. It just has to make "decent" connection when the tip and ring fingers come together.

If that connection is not "decent" (ie: barely touching) you can pick up radio stations. Been there, heard that. That's the only reason I have reservations. If Sambo does a nice tight job, then you're right... but I hate recommending that kind of thing without some warning(s).

D~s

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