Dot Marker & Finishing Help (ignorant Newbie)

[Rolf G Riley]

I just finished scalloping one of my Strat necks (don't worry it's just a mexican 70's classic strat I bought for the purpose, it has a maple neck). Thing is I managed to sand through some of the dot markers, four to be precise . I read that a quick fix would be to use some black insulating tape and a hole punch to make some new markers, then just coat over it. I thought about fitting new markers properly, but I am concerned that the truss rod would be exposed if I drill out the holes where the markers go. So what would you guys do?

Ok the next question is about laquer. From what i can tell this neck has no stain, just clear polyurythane. After the scallop the back of the neck and the whole headstock still have their origional coating. I need to match the new laquer on the scallops exactly to the origional finish. How do I do that?

next stoopid question... where can I buy the laquer and or dot markers in the UK . I have Stew Macs catalogue but they dont ship flammable stuff to the UK.

I have never none any work on a guitar before this, I am a player not in any way a tech or a luthier. I read through the past posts and got some tips but any help you may be able to offer would be very much appreciated.

Many thanks.

Edited March 6, 2005 by Rolf G Riley

[ToneMonkey]

Just a quick one on the supplier questions:

David Dyke - Quite expensive, but you get what you pay for. Personally not used them myself but heard good things

Touchstone Tonewoods - Good bloke on the end of the phone, quick and easy ordering. Fast delivery, I've used them 3 or 4 times now and no problems as of yet (except for me ordering 1 less dot marker than I needed ).

www.axesrus.co.uk - Cheap. Never order from them but no doubt I will, they seem quite good.

Craft Supplies - No online luthier stuff (that I know of) but phone them up and they'll send you the Tonewood Catalogue. Quite cheap and I've used them prety much exclusively (gonna use them more because my mate plays bass in the bosses band - so hopefully sooner or later I'll be able to blag some free stuff )

I think that's your major ones, just shove the names into google.

****I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE IN THIS, SO GET IT CONFIRMED FIRST****

We'll as noone else has replied, I'll offer my bit on the dot markers...

... Remark the position of the hole and drill it WITH A HAND DRILL. The depth of the markers are only a couple of mm's.

[Rolf G Riley]

Many thanks for replying. I will check out the links. Thanks again.

Edited March 7, 2005 by Rolf G Riley

[ToneMonkey]

No worries.

Where abouts in the UK are you?

Kaj

[Rolf G Riley]

Basildon Essex mate! Land of White high heels, peroxide & huge four wheel drives

I think I am going to have to stick with the insulation tape idea as the scallops are pretty deep..don't want to hit the truss rod with the drill, also getting the black n' decker to line up exactly by hand is unlikely on one and a mathematical imposibility on all the markers. I still cant track down a supplier of clear polyurethane lacquer..I know most prefer the other stuff but this neck is already half finished in it so I need it to match. All I need is a hole punch the same diameter as the origional dots...

..this is turning into a masterclass on how to botch up a neck

[ToneMonkey]

Basildon Essex mate! Land of White high heels, peroxide & huge four wheel drives

←

Got a Burberry cap on?

I'm doing a job not a million miles away from you. I'm occassionally down in West Thurrock, if you know where that is.

Welcome to the forum dude and BEWARE - guitar building is highly adictive. It won't be long and your missus will be threatening to leave, if you even do so much as mention quilted maple. I know mine came out with the classic "Do we always have to talk about *insert expletive* wood" but admittedly that was about making a snooker cue. Her fault for asking me what I was thinking about

Anyway, good luck with the project.

Kaj

[Rolf G Riley]

yeah I know Thurrock & Grays etc...I used to work over that way.

..one more question,,,,what is the difference between the polyurethane laquer Fender put on the Mexican strats and polyurethane laquer I can buy from B&Q? I mean am I beating myself up hear over something when all I need to do is walk into B&Q and slap on a coat of their finest?

..oh and before I forget ..another question... would it be such a big deal if the fretboard was covered in nitro cellulose and the back and headstock left in polyurethane?

[Doc]

If you mix the finishes faries will come at night, steal your guitar and beat you senseless.

Really, it doesn't make a particle of difference unless you need to put one over the other. If they're on different parts it doesn't matter. If you were building a big flat conference table you would want to use the same thing everywhere so that the movement of moisture was equal. On a small area like a guitar neck it is far less important. All finishes still allow moisture movement.

Fine Woodworking magazine did a study a few years back and it was amazing to me how much moisture still bleeds through things like lacquer and polyurethane.

What brands of stuff do they force you Brits to use? Do they have Deft? (this is a brushing lacquer) How about Minwax or Varathane brands?

Over here lacquer and polyurethane are two different critters.

Lacquer is thinned with lacquer thinner, dries in fifteen minutes or so and is alcohol and water resistant if not proof. It redissolves evrytime you recoat it.

Polyurethane is mineral spirit thinned, dries in 12 to 24 hours and can be beaten with a hammer. It is used a lot for finishing hardwood floors. Each coat dries and the subsequent coats will only bond if you have scuff sanded the last coat.