The Order Of Things, Help!

[sepsis311]

It's an RG7621 (basswood body)

Here is what i want to do...

Strip the body and headstock chemically

Add binding (body only).

Add flamed maple top (body and headstock).

Bring to auto body shop for clear coating (body and headstock).

Here is what i have...

3 pieces of veneer from universaljems.com, 1 for the headstock, 2 for the body.

I am in the process of ordering binding and weldon glue.

What do i need?

Where can i get a small router just for the binding?

Questions:

1) What order should I do things?

2) What masking tape repels paint stripper? I just want the face of the headstock to be stripped. I don't want to redo the entire neck.

3) Is an auto body oven too hot for the neck? I know its ok for the body.

4) Should i use grain filler if the whole guitar will be clear coated or stained?

5) Or should i use sanding sealer instead?

Thanks for everyones help in advanced!

[CudBucket]

You might want to do a search for the anwsers to these questions. Plus, you might want this in the proper forum too.

[sepsis311]

You might want to do a search for the anwsers to these questions.  Plus, you might want this in the proper forum too.

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I do know how to apply a veneer top. I do know how to apply binding. I've read the tutorials, done the searches. All i wanted to do was tie up loose ends that i didnt find addressed in the tutorials. Instead of discouraging new users by saying "do searches", howabout either helping out or just leave it alone and let someone else help. As far as it being in the wrong forum, i think routers, masking tape, grain filler, sanding sealer, routers, and questions about them fall under the category of tools. This is not a work in progress because i havn't started, or taken any pictures, and this isnt just 1 general question.

[jnewman]

Question 1:

Strip it, add the top, add the binding, do the clear.

Question 2:

No idea... I tend to stay away from paint stripper.

Question 3:

No clue - if you're sure it's fine for the body, I don't see how it could hurt the neck. I guess make sure the truss rod is loose so that uneven thermal expansion of metal/wood doesn't flex things too much.

Question 4:

You may want to grainfill to keep the clear from sinking into the pores as it cures. This should be done after staining if it's a water-based stain used on the wood, or before a few layers of clear and then staining if it's an alcohol-based stain dissolved in lacquer/poly/whatever.

Question 5:

Sanding sealer is a high solid content lacquer that you apply after pore filling to give you a strong base coat before you start buildling your gloss top coat with thin layers. It's completely separate from grainfiller.

Random Questions:

Small router: A hardware store. Including home depot. You can do the routing for binding with a dremel, dremel router bits, and by hand or with dremel routing stand. Or you can use a "laminate router" which is a very small router. A big router's probably a bit too much for this, as you're trying to get something that's about a quarter to half inch deep and an eighth to sixteenth wide. There are some threads here about jigs to make this easier, one is very similar to the stewmac dremel binding routing guide. You could theoretically do it with chisels if you know what you're doing.

This topic properly belongs in the "Inlays and Finishing Chat" section - while all your questions involve tools, so does every aspect of guitar building, and all your questions are about how to finish your guitar, not really about the tools themselves. Not a big deal, don't worry about it, but that's where it goes .

Edited March 16, 2005 by jnewman

[sepsis311]

Question 1:

Strip it, add the top, add the binding, do the clear.

Question 2:

No idea... I tend to stay away from paint stripper.

Question 3:

No clue - if you're sure it's fine for the body, I don't see how it could hurt the neck. I guess make sure the truss rod is loose so that uneven thermal expansion of metal/wood doesn't flex things too much.

Question 4:

You may want to grainfill to keep the clear from sinking into the pores as it cures. This should be done after staining if it's a water-based stain used on the wood, or before a few layers of clear and then staining if it's an alcohol-based stain dissolved in lacquer/poly/whatever.

Question 5:

Sanding sealer is a high solid content lacquer that you apply after pore filling to give you a strong base coat before you start buildling your gloss top coat with thin layers. It's completely separate from grainfiller.

Random Questions:

Small router: A hardware store. Including home depot. You can do the routing for binding with a dremel, dremel router bits, and by hand or with dremel routing stand. Or you can use a "laminate router" which is a very small router. A big router's probably a bit too much for this, as you're trying to get something that's about a quarter to half inch deep and an eighth to sixteenth wide. There are some threads here about jigs to make this easier, one is very similar to the stewmac dremel binding routing guide. You could theoretically do it with chisels if you know what you're doing.

This topic properly belongs in the "Inlays and Finishing Chat" section - while all your questions involve tools, so does every aspect of guitar building, and all your questions are about how to finish your guitar, not really about the tools themselves. Not a big deal, don't worry about it, but that's where it goes .

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Thank you, this is very good information. I will be sure to take pictures and put them in the proper forum when i start.

[Doc]

There is no masking tape taht will suvive stripper to my knowledge. It all turns to useless goo.