Floyd Rose "block" Depth?

[Digideus]

Guys,

I just accuired a Jackson Performer and decided to swap out the jackson licenced floyd rose with a proper one I had sitting around doing nothing. The problem is that the body thickness is 1.5" as opposed to 2" so the metal block under the trem that attaches to the springs sticks out too far.

I seem to remember someone asked about this before, but search doesnt bring up anything so I guess that thread has been archived somewhere.

Im thinking all I need to do is swap out the block from the licenced one and hope that the screw placement is the same on both trems. if it isnt, Im not sure what to do. Cut the offending depth off and redrill it?

opinions please

Edited April 2, 2005 by Digideus

[Scott Rosenberger]

The long blocks are for flat mouted Floyd applications. You can try to swap the blocks if the licensed one will line up or machine the original one down to size. If you do decide to machine the original one, make sure you drill the spring holes deeper before you cut. You can also buy the shorter block. I believe Allparts sells them

[scott from _actual time_]

The problem is that the body thickness is 1.5" as opposed to 2" so the metal block under the trem that attaches to the springs sticks out too far.

Im thinking all I need to do is swap out the block from the licenced one and hope that the screw placement is the same on both trems.  if it isnt, Im not sure what to do.  Cut the offending depth off and redrill it?

normal strat-style guitar thickness is actually 1.75", but yeah. Ibanez makes two different sizes of block for their trems so the short one will fit in their Saber guitars, also 1.5" thick.

if your two different trems attach their blocks with the same size screws, with screw holes in the same locations, you can swap the blocks. if not, just cut and redrill like you say. dan erlewine mentions doing this in his Guitar Player magazine repair book [a great reference, btw]. he cuts off from the bottom of the block, not the top. he also drills the spring holes deeper first before he cuts, to get their locations exactly right. the then he cleans up the hacksaw cut with a file.

if your trem has a screwed-on plate to hold the springs in, like the Ibanez Edge trems, then you'd have to redrill and tap those holes. in that case, i'd just leave plate off -- my Ibanez Sabers don't even have them installed.

[Kevan]

normal strat-style guitar thickness is actually 1.75", but yeah.  Ibanez makes two different sizes of block for their trems so the short one will fit in their Saber guitars, also 1.5" thick.

if your two different trems attach their blocks with the same size screws, with screw holes in the same locations, you can swap the blocks.  if not, just cut and redrill like you say.  dan erlewine mentions doing this in his Guitar Player magazine repair book [a great reference, btw].  he cuts off from the bottom of the block, not the top.  he also drills the spring holes deeper first before he cuts, to get their locations exactly right.

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This is correct, but I'd like to add something to it: not all spring attachment holes are drilled vertical to the block- some are angled! If you're not careful, you might drill thru the wall of the block.

Not that I've ever done that....

When you trim the block down, the feel of the trem vs. a long block will change. The shorter block will be stiffer, because you don't have as much leverage when using the trem. Just something to take into consideration when you're doing 'feel comparisons' between long and short blocks.

Also: EB/MM trem blocks are NOT a standard size. They are their own "special" size.