Mattia Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 Thanks for the input... Definitely scrap scrap scrap. Warmoth routes the control cavities on their carved tops to match the top radius, so I've got to figure out how much wood they left me to work with. mattia, do you have pics posted anywhere? Mike ← Umm, guitar of the month entry for November, but this should do: During spraying: http://www.xs4all.nl/~mvalente/guitarpics3/pat_body15.jpg http://www.xs4all.nl/~mvalente/guitarpics3/pat_body22.jpg They look pretty huge, but here's the finished product. Fit just fine: http://www.xs4all.nl/~mvalente/guitarpics4..._finished03.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 I forgot that one was yours... I love it and I thought it should have won GOTM! That's exactly what I'm trying for... if I have enough wood to work with. What size forstner did you use? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 I forgot that one was yours... I love it and I thought it should have won GOTM! That's exactly what I'm trying for... if I have enough wood to work with. What size forstner did you use? thanks! ← Heh..thanks! It was a very close race, but I was up against some incredibly tough competition. I think I did ok for myself. I believe I used a 1" forstner for the original recess, cleaned up with chisels, dremel, detail sander. A few pics of the recessing process, earlier on: Forstner drilled: http://www.xs4all.nl/~mvalente/guitarpics/pat_body_37.jpg Roughed out (dremel tool, mini router bit IIRC): http://www.xs4all.nl/~mvalente/guitarpics/pat_body_38.jpg More or less finished product: http://www.xs4all.nl/~mvalente/guitarpics/pat_body_39.jpg The difficulty in doing it this way was getting evenly-sized countersinks. Some will also seem smaller/larger than others beause of where they are on the top, and what the carve is 'doing' at that point. I did some more work to even them out after that last shot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 Thanks, mattia, that helps a lot. BTW - nice save on the worm damage. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZoSo_Spencer Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 why doesnt someone just get a small block of wood bigger than the sunken hole you want, drill a hole through the centre of it the size of the pots shaft or drill bit that you drill the pots holes with then round the block on a lathe, then round one end until it is the shape that you want your pot-hole to be. get some adhesive backed sandpaper and cut it up into strips and glue it to the curved face then cut the sandpaper of that is covering the drill bit hole and stick the bit in and somehow clamp it to the bit....havent thought of how to do that yet.... then drill away and adjust the block so that when your bit goes to a certain depth the block will start sanding away.. keep going until the desired depth is met. hopefully that makes some sence to other people..... and you dont have to make the sanding cylinder thing you can always find something similar like an end of a wooden mop or something and just drill through the centre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 The forstner bit worked well. Cleaned it up with a rounded dremel high-speed cutter, then lots of sanding. Thanks again, mattia - your pics were worth a thousand words. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8rofwyo Posted December 7, 2005 Report Share Posted December 7, 2005 Zoso: the only problem is that you just reinvented the wheel and this wheel requires alot of attention to keep you going down the road. Creative idea though. Nate Robinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendelcrow Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 Something like this? Diameter = 40 mm. The drill is for drilling out egg cups. Vendelcrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 Something like this? Diameter = 40 mm. The drill is for drilling out egg cups. Vendelcrow ← Awesome. Are those for sale, or did someone custom-grind that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 On the JV-1 I puposely didn't go for the sunken recess look. I just used a 1-1/16" forstner bit to drill the holes, just so the knobs fit perfectly. Mattia is telling you a cheaper way of doing it if your wanting the PRS recess, a cove bit would cost more but be faster like Maiden used. It really doesn't matter, because they both will give you the same results. You know after looking at the old pictures of the JV-1, I'm really wishing I'd have done the black epoxy method.. man what great grain I hid with the finish.. Oh well, you live and learn.. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted December 8, 2005 Report Share Posted December 8, 2005 Yeah, I think that router bit is over $50, so I bought a 1" forstner for $9. Did the trick, just more work. Plus I was a bit nervous about using that cove bit on my carved top. ps - here's that egg cup bit: 40mm egg cup bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vendelcrow Posted December 9, 2005 Report Share Posted December 9, 2005 Hi Mattia, They are for sale here in Sweden, price 166:00 SEK (about $20). There must be a lot of makers of egg cups over here, but so far I have not met one ;-) Vendelcrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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