vaxination Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 i tried searching, but since i don't know the right term, i am coming up empty. so how does one drill the PRS style sunken potentiometer holes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 There's no one way to do it-- use any method you can devise that you think will work! It seems to me that a drill press and a forstner bit (is that what they're called?) will do the basic job, and then use sandpaper to smooth out the perimeter of them. That's totally just a guess, though, and is the way I'd personally try to do it if I wasn't given a better suggestion. Maybe someone here has a better idea than that. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaxination Posted October 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 thanks gregp. yes, i also thought about using a forstner bit too, but i thought i better tap some the experience of the members of the forum before i started drilling. however, seeing how we both had the same idea, it might be the way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 router bit in a drill press, the bearing being the same size as the hole. Careful, its semi dangerous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaxination Posted October 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 yes, that does sound dangerous! not sure i have the confidence to do it that way. btw, is that how you are doing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Alex Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 router bit in a drill press, the bearing being the same size as the hole. Careful, its semi dangerous. ← I use that method too, "fun fun fun" is the only way to describe it, the wicked noise and the jolting, and the fact that the carbide tipped chunk of metal is spinning round in front of your face. Its not dangerous, just gotta be the right kinda man. You can also do it with a plunge router(I feel its way safer, but you've gotta decide on the depth you want the hole to be, as obviously the top is uncarved at that stage for it too work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaxination Posted October 28, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 great news! dangerous has been upgraded to "fun, fun, fun"! i will practice on some scrap so i can have fun too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Alex Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 If you're ever doing a painted finish, you can replace the piece of wood with auto body filler, its not so dodgy when using the drill press, it kinda goes without saying ,but wear safety goggles, I forgot once, and auto body filler under your eyelid is insanely painful. But really, I think my idea of fun is a little different to most. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 I just finished recessing the holes for TOM bridge posts. I used a 1/4" radius cove bit, with the bearing removed, on my cordless drill at high speed. Straight down to center on the hole and then a complete spin on an angle to widen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01879.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01774.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01688.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v195/Maiden69/DSC01001.jpg Like Perry mentioned! Router bit with the hole for the pot the same size as the bearing on the tip of the bit! If you don't have one with the bearing, that's when things get kinda scary! But if you have the bearing, live is good! And a lot easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 If you've got a drill press I can think of a way that's even easier than that (for PRS style ones only though, cause they have the like "rounded" sink hole). Take a BIG bit with a diameter greater than than of your knob (you can find bits with "rounded" bottoms) and drill down as deep as you want it set in the body. You'll end up with like a little "cup" in the top. Find the center of that cup and drill you hole. Tada, done. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 A variaton on the router bit in dripp press theme: use the rounded bit with bearings in your ordinary router before you contour the body. Works perfekt and without the need for a realy powerful drill press. The guys seemed to forget to mention THAT part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted October 28, 2005 Report Share Posted October 28, 2005 you dont need an ultra powerful drill press... 4hp should be more than enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 OK, I see a lot of talk about big drill bits, and huge drill presses!!! Here is a router bit that will do the job. http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/s...440969_13388+79 or this other in the 1 1/2" or bigger http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/s...440969_13388+24 now IF you take your time, and clamp the guitar body to the drill press table (which I haven't had to do!!!) any drill press will work. As long as it has a "fast" speed. I did found out that router bits will tend to chatter at low speed settings in the drill press, but once the press is set to it's max speed, there was no problem at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javacody Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 I'm surprised no one mentioned the sharpened spoon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 you dont need an ultra powerful drill press... 4hp should be more than enough ← 4hp! Thats about twise the power of mine, so that why that method is out of question for me And, Yeah. I should upgrade the drill press, but that goes for a lot of stuff in my shop so the list is long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted December 5, 2005 Report Share Posted December 5, 2005 Like Perry mentioned! Router bit with the hole for the pot the same size as the bearing on the tip of the bit! If you don't have one with the bearing, that's when things get kinda scary! But if you have the bearing, live is good! And a lot easier. ← Would I be asking for trouble using this method on a really nice, already carved flame top? Visions of maple chunks dance in my head. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted December 5, 2005 Report Share Posted December 5, 2005 I'd use a plunge router with the amount of depth you want dialed in and clamped to the top tight . Way i do it, but then i do it before i carve the tops... so... hummm... try it on a scrap bit o' wood and see what works best If you look at my padauk petrucci photos that was done with a drill press (my **** 1/2hp jobby). just need to take it sloooooooooooowww..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duff Beer Man Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 if u recess the tom you dont need a neck angle right? I love the recess tom look and if i dont have to do a neck angle then its a two for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 As long as you recess it enough you wont. It does look cool doesnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 Draw. It. Out. In. Full. Seriously. Side view, detailed drawing will answer that question, every time. Bring it down to a Strat/Tele bridge height, and you need either a tiny amount of angle (flush fingerboard), or a standard Fender type joint, with the neck slightly proud of the surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 Like Perry mentioned! Router bit with the hole for the pot the same size as the bearing on the tip of the bit! If you don't have one with the bearing, that's when things get kinda scary! But if you have the bearing, live is good! And a lot easier. ← Would I be asking for trouble using this method on a really nice, already carved flame top? Visions of maple chunks dance in my head. Mike ← You mean like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 Yup, something like that, except it's AAAAA flame. Did you use the router bit after the top was carved? Can I pull this off safely (with practice) on my drill press? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 Try it on scrap, and decide for yourself, I'd say. I did mine with a forstner and a bunch of sanding, but I'm trying this cove bit method next time 'round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted December 6, 2005 Report Share Posted December 6, 2005 Thanks for the input... Definitely scrap scrap scrap. Warmoth routes the control cavities on their carved tops to match the top radius, so I've got to figure out how much wood they left me to work with. mattia, do you have pics posted anywhere? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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