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Logo Paper


DaveK

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Has anyone out there ever used "dry transfer paper" to make or copy a logo?

From what I understand, you just rub this stuff with a coin & the ink transfers onto the wood , but only on the part you rub

Sounds like it would be great, but I wanted to see if anyone has ever tried it

Thanks & Happy Thanksgiving!

Dave K :D

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Hey Brian, while were on the topic of logos, just thought Id let you know that I finally got the logo that I sent you, finished in a matching flat metalic gold. I got a meter of the vinyl for $25 and about 140 logos. ( I only needed one). Hehehe, I dont thing there are that many 50's model Gibsons left in the world.

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Has anyone out there ever used "dry transfer paper" to make or copy a logo?

From what I understand, you just rub this stuff with a coin & the ink transfers onto the wood , but only on the part you rub

Sounds like it would be great, but I wanted to see if anyone has ever tried it

Thanks & Happy Thanksgiving!

Dave K :D

I've had problems with that stuff before. Most finishes that you would want to put on top of it will react with the ink and make it disolve and pucker up. Really a mess to clean up.

What I have done that worked in the past is to use the dry transfer and then cover it with clear plasticote (some left over from a fleckstone kit from Walmart). There's no reaction between those two. I guess that you could protect the dry transfer with the plasticote and then put a proper finish on top of it.

Worth a shot anyway.

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Cool, but where did you get the Dry transfer paper??

Can you print on it from an inkjet or lazerjet printer?

Thanks in advance

Dave

Keep in mind that I'm still new to guitar building. This was for a senior project about... 10 to 12 years ago.

I had the entire thing assembled and basically took COTS transfers from an office supply store. Just simple letters and basic shapes. So now I had every dial and switch labeled. To protect it (it'll scratch off with a fingernail), we sprayed on a clear coat (I forget what it was). Instant melt down. Everything curled up and it had to be taken apart and redone.

I tried about a 1/2 dozen clear finishes, all failed and melted the letters. Then my wife handed me this can of plasticote from one of her fleckstone projects. Perfection. I put a few light coats on to build it up. It was still a little ugly from all the scraping that I had to do on the plastic bits, but the marking were flat and protected now.

As for where you get the stuff...

Walmart, Staples?

And from the sounds of it. This site suggests that you could use that iron on transfer stuff. Hmmm. I have my doubts. Experiment anyone?

http://www.wyndstone.com/mouse.htm

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