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Inlay Scribe


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inlay tutorial

I glued mine on with a small amount of Duco cement and used an x-acto #11 blade to scribe around it. After scribing I popped them off (carefully) with a razor blade, then rubbed white chalk in the lines for routing.

Pieces that span a large section of the fingerboard work better if you can inlay them in segments, otherwise you may end up sanding through any edges :D that don't lay flush in the cavity.


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Whatever you do DON'T do thast last idea... :D:DB)

It's impossible to get it even from behind.

Just lay out your inlay over the curve, if it is still in seperate pieces then you can even lay down some wax paper first, lay out your pieces over the curve and then glue them in as curved position. Then let it dry, duco glue it down, then use a #11 blade to scribe around the edges. Remove it, clean the board off with acetone, and then fill the lines with chalk. Then rout.

Good luck, but sanding from behind in inlay, unless your starting out completely flat to begin with, is rough enough. I normally just glue everything face down and fill in from behind if it's un-even with dust, etc.. I try to never sand from behind.

Good luck.

Craig Lavin


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well I guess i'll just be conservative like ya'll said, and also, put "risers" on either side of the board so my dremel has a flat surface to glide along, etc. So now new question... would ya'll recomment inlaying on the fingerboard BEFORE i cut it to shape (taper) and glue it to the neck wood?


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