verhoevenc Posted December 22, 2005 Report Share Posted December 22, 2005 any tips for scribing your inlay onto a radiused fingerboard? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted December 22, 2005 Report Share Posted December 22, 2005 inlay tutorial I glued mine on with a small amount of Duco cement and used an x-acto #11 blade to scribe around it. After scribing I popped them off (carefully) with a razor blade, then rubbed white chalk in the lines for routing. Pieces that span a large section of the fingerboard work better if you can inlay them in segments, otherwise you may end up sanding through any edges that don't lay flush in the cavity. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninoman123 Posted December 22, 2005 Report Share Posted December 22, 2005 (edited) You could glue them face down onto a scrap piece and then sand the back of them to the required radius. You would somehow need to make a sanding block with the correct radius so they will glue down. Seems like a lot of work but it could work. Hopefully that makes sense lol. Edited December 22, 2005 by ninoman123 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clavin Posted December 23, 2005 Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 Whatever you do DON'T do thast last idea... It's impossible to get it even from behind. Just lay out your inlay over the curve, if it is still in seperate pieces then you can even lay down some wax paper first, lay out your pieces over the curve and then glue them in as curved position. Then let it dry, duco glue it down, then use a #11 blade to scribe around the edges. Remove it, clean the board off with acetone, and then fill the lines with chalk. Then rout. Good luck, but sanding from behind in inlay, unless your starting out completely flat to begin with, is rough enough. I normally just glue everything face down and fill in from behind if it's un-even with dust, etc.. I try to never sand from behind. Good luck. Craig Lavin www.handcraftinlay.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted December 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 problem is it's a mountain with a moon inlay, kinda a SINGLE piece outta a "McNaught" moonscape style thing. it's in recon stone. It's already glued up.... and since it's a mountain it's quite big.... so the radius under it really makes it rock back and forth, etc. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted December 23, 2005 Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 Just mark it, carefully, with rocking and all, and be conservative when you route for it, and adjust as needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikhailgtrski Posted December 23, 2005 Report Share Posted December 23, 2005 You might want to trace the outline on paper first and use that as a template to gauge your routing progress. Better to have to go back and route a little more than to fill a large gap. Take it slow, have fun, and post us some pics when you're done. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted December 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2005 well I guess i'll just be conservative like ya'll said, and also, put "risers" on either side of the board so my dremel has a flat surface to glide along, etc. So now new question... would ya'll recomment inlaying on the fingerboard BEFORE i cut it to shape (taper) and glue it to the neck wood? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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