Removing A Truss Rod

[river]

I have a Les Paul knockoff which I pulled the fretboard off of, ( followed the project guitar tutorial) and it went well. The Truss Rod is pretty oxidized and tight in the route, I'm looking to put a hotrod double action in place of the old. This is the first truss rod I'm attempting to R/R, what's the safetest way to get the old stubborn rod broke free from the route for removal.

Thanks

[Bluetic]

I have a Les Paul knockoff which I pulled the fretboard off of, ( followed the project guitar tutorial) and it went well. The Truss Rod is pretty oxidized and tight in the route, I'm looking to put a hotrod double action in place of the old. This is the first truss rod I'm attempting to R/R, what's the safetest way to get the old stubborn rod broke free from the route for removal.

Thanks

You might try heating it up with a soldering iron.

[river]

Yeah that rings true, heating it might make the metal more pliable and loose.

[river]

Truss removed finally, heating with soldering iron was the kicker. The old truss rod is a single-action with an aluminum channel on one side. Overall length including adjustment nut is just under 16". I'm looking at putting a "HotRod" in as a replacement. Hotrod makes a 14 1/2" model apparently sized for acoustics; I don't know if that length includes the 1" nut or not though. If someone knows please clue me in. The 18" inch HotRod is a little too long for my needs, as I really don't want to extend the route to squeexe it in. These Hotrods whether they're supposedly intended for guitar, banjo, acoustic or whatever are all the same right, application based on length specification. I havn't seen many or any short style truss rods for 25 year old Japanese LP copies so this a best guess kind of thing it seems. Also the route is 7/16" wide and 7/16" deep, definitely square, the Hot rods go 7/16" deep and a bit narrower. What's the best way to shim it in securely and cushion it from rattling/vibration. Thanks for any help on this