6 Posted March 7, 2006 Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 (edited) Ok, I have a Jackson JS30RR Rhoads V that I bought a while back as a beater guitar. I'm going to use it for my band's live shows. Since I paid very little for it, I have decided to "trick" it out. Do things to it that I wouldn't want to even dare trying on my other very, very, very expensive guitars that I have in my collection. Now. I have never painted a thing in my entire life. I have never done any woodwork like this, the only wood work I have ever done is build a deck for my home by myself 7 years ago. Yes, it's still standing and very level, I'm quite proud, hehe. Anyway, I made a mock-up of my guitar using PhotoShop so that I could play around with paint designs and inlays and whatever I wanted to. Here it is: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/006...ps/ORIGINAL.jpg So I fooled around for about a week with that, and finally came up with something I am very happy with. First one is with strings, the second is without, to see the custom inlay better: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/006...ith-strings.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/006...-no-strings.jpg NOW. Like I said, I am completely new to working on guitars. I know how to set-up and intonate my guitars, but as far as replacing a fretboard, making my own inlays, and painting...uh...nope. I was going to order a couple of blank ebony fretboards with the correct radius and scale length from a wholesaler with the cuts for frets already in them. Three to be exact. One for me to practice on, one for me to try for real on, and one to send to a real luthier in case I bugger mine up, lol. Also, I have found most of the supplies I need from Stewart MacDonald, online. I am going to need a peice of Mother-Of-Pearl (or similar white/grey material) for the inlay, some tall-wide fretwire (2ft. or so should be enough) and a bunch of files and glues and stuff like that. Clamps and whatnot can be had at Home Depot locally. I have read all of the tutorials pertaining to this work on www.ProjectGuitar.com, but I would still like any tips and/or tricks anyone can give me. Also, binding...best way? Etc. Also, does anyone know the radius and scale length of my guitar's fretboard? I'm still looking around trying to fine it online, but no luck yet. I'm assuming 25" or so. And I've heard that Jackson uses a 16" radius typically, but that is on their USA models. The first thing I want to try is doing my own inlay on the fretboard. So that's why the importance of the scale/radius information. If I can do that myself, I can send the neck to this guy I know and he can just switch the fretboards out for me, much cheaper than him taking the old one off, doing the inlay on the new one, putting the new one on, and fretting it. Plus I can learn how to do it . As far as the finish goes on the body and headstock...I would really like to try it myself, but...I think I would feel much more comfortable sending it to that guy and having him do it, just so I *know* it comes out right. I've seen his work and it's amazing. I have never seen my own work, heh. I am going to post this in the other forum as well. So, thoughts? ~006 Edited March 8, 2006 by Maiden69 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSuttle Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 Well, I can't help you too much with the paint, but inlay I know. First practice practice practice. Instead of starting on an expensive finger board, start on on a 2x4 and make your first inlays out of some cheap wood or plastic. To cut the pearl you will need a jewel's saw and at least one package (12 blade) of 02 wire. A dremel will be a necessary tool for the routing, but is also very handy for getting the edges of the numbers smooth. Use the large sanding drum where possible. A good place to get the pearl is www.RescuePearl.com. They take small orders and their prices are pretty good. Plus, they are one of the few places that will hand selected certain size, color, or figure pieces for you if you request it. If your inlay are going to be that wide, be sure to get the .06" pearl. you will need the thickness to stop from blowing through the edges when you sand it down. I would suggest getting a radiused sanding block too. Get one the same radius as your fingers. Not sure where to get these since I make mind myself. Sounds like a fun project. Good Luck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 9, 2006 Report Share Posted March 9, 2006 What cSuttle said, although the 'standard' .05" works fine in most applications. I'll put in a good word for MOPsupplies.com (if you don't mind shipping costs from Australia), and for Andy dePaule (DePaule supply, google it), just phone him and tell him your needs. StewMac sells sanding blocks. Not expensive. To find your scale length, y'need a ruler: measure the distance from the nut to the 12th fret, multiply it by 2. That's your scale length. As for fingerboard radius, you can make cheap gauges with some carboard. Draw circles of the right radius, cut out carefully, see which one matches best. Finishing: there's a discussion going on somehwere on the boards re: Eddie Van Halen stripey paint jobbies, not sure where exactly. Use search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 (edited) Ok, well I think I have the EVH finish thing covered. My friend bought me that "Paint Your Own 5150" e-book from PaintYourOwnGuitar.com. It seems like it'll be pretty easy to do...the hardest part seems to be the two month wait for the finish to completely dry. I feel as though I could tackle the inlay myself as well. It doesn't seem all that difficult...I mean, you just gotta have patience, it seems. You make your inlay, you make the hole in the fretboard to fit the inlay... I have a dremel, as well as a drill press, sanding materials, wood glues, epoxy mixes...My dad is a carpenter as a hobby, and so he's got a lot of tools laying around for wood work, luckily for me . The MAIN thing I am concerned about tackling myself is the binding on the neck and headstock. Do I basically just route a very small channel all along the edges or....??? Also, does anyone know where I could find a new Jackson headstock logo? I'm afriad when I go to paint the headstock with the stripes, I will bugger up the Jackson logo, so I'll need another one to replace it. I saw the headstock decal making tutorial on the PG.com main site, maybe I could make mine that way? Annnnnnd....when I go to paint my guitar, which order should I put the colors on in? As in, white base, red, then black? Masking off my stripes as I go? The only thing with that is my white stripes are suppose to be on the very top of the rest, as in, the red stripes run underneath the white, when you look at it. So I guess just some very clever masking is in order for that part? Binding materials, best place to get them? I was going to go with StewMac for a lot of the materials and supplies for this project. I did check out those sites you posted, MATTIA, and I will be ordering the shell from one of those guys for my real attempt, but my practice runs will be with synthetic shell from StewMac. Just in case I do a really good job on that and bugger up the real shell, at least I'll have a shell inlay still instead of a wooden one, heheh. OH, also....anyone know where to get fretboard blanks in ebony? Preferably with the radius and scales being optional, as well as the fret slots already cut too. Basically a place that has all the options to choose from. Maybe Warmoth? I'm not sure, and a google search turned up exotic wood dealers that sell LUMBER, not fretboards, *sigh*. Ideas? ~006 Edited March 10, 2006 by 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Arbor Press from StewMac I'm assuming that would be the ideal choice to do the fret seating on my new fretboard. Or are there some bad things about it? ~006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Hmm...ok, for tools specifically needed to do this myself, for the fretwork, binding, and inlays alone, I'm looking at about $300, +/- $50. That's not including the supplies to finish the guitar with my stripe design. I'm starting to wonder if it would be just easier, as well as cheaper, to just send the neck off to a guy I know to have him do the binding, inlay, fretwork, and fretboard install. I have to buy the paint, clear coat, buffing supplies, headstock decal supplies, painting supplies, new tuning machines, arbor press, caul for the frets, fretwire, fretting tools, binding material, binding supplies, neck level stuff, fret leveling stuff, rulers (specific for application), pickups, adhesives, masking tape....I mean, the guitar only cost $300 itself. I would be spending nearly $600 alone on supplies and tools. As much as I would absolutely love to do this work on my own to get the gratification from it, it seems it's more trouble than it's worth as far as cost is concerned. It would cost me about $300 to get the new fretboard installed, custom inlay done, fretwork, binding, and shipping to and from the luthier I know. I have seen all of his work and he does an amazing job. That would leave me with about a $210 cost to do the rest of the work, a paint job, the headstock logo, Sperzel locking tuners, and new pickups. Total that way would be $510 (+/- $30)...while that's not very far off from $600, I will know the most important part of the work (the neck) is done properly and professionally. Or should I just bite the bullet and buy the tools and everything to do it myself and take a crack at it? Believe me, I would love to go that route, but would it be worth it? ~006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cSuttle Posted March 10, 2006 Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Hmm...ok, for tools specifically needed to do this myself, for the fretwork, binding, and inlays alone, I'm looking at about $300, +/- $50. That's not including the supplies to finish the guitar with my stripe design. I'm starting to wonder if it would be just easier, as well as cheaper, to just send the neck off to a guy I know to have him do the binding, inlay, fretwork, and fretboard install. Well that depends. You won't get any experience from having him do it. If your just trying to create a one time nice guitar, then by all means have him do it. If your a building nut, like most of us around here then you really should do it yourself just for the experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6 Posted March 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2006 Well, now I'm trying to find the cheapest ways (tool wise) for me to do the work myself. I have a Dremel, and lots of wood laying around, a drill press, a 6in. bench grinder (which can be outfitted for buffing a guitar), I have files and whatnot as well, all kinds of levels, rulers, drill bits, titebond, etc. Here already. So looking at it, all I really need to buy is a proper fretting hammer and the little base for my Dremel to use for routing. If that's the case...I'll do it all myself, or at least try to. Heh. Anyone know where I can get an ebony fretboard that's got a compound 12" to 14" radius and 1-11/16" width at the nut end, 25.5" scale, slotted for frets already? ~006 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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