daveq Posted September 3, 2003 Report Share Posted September 3, 2003 I've been looking around at various manufacturers to see how they handle the arm rest on maple top guitars. It looks like PRS uses a very thick maple top and they just carve it to about 1/4"? at the sides. Others use a paper thin veneer and just carve the arm rest like a normal solid body. Lastly, some just don't put the arm rest in (Peavey Wolfgang, some Jacksons,...) and leave it flat. I don't like the feel of a guitar that has no provision for the arm rest area. I have a 3/8" thick top I'm planning on using - do you think that's thick enough to get a good arm rest curve? I noticed that the guitars that have real maple tops don't seem to ever go very thin where it meets the back piece (usually 1/4" or more). Is there a reason why you can't go to something like 1/8"? I realize you will lose the figuring if you go too thin, but I'd think that 1/8" should still be OK, right? Anyone have experience doing something like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted September 3, 2003 Report Share Posted September 3, 2003 if you get that top down to 1/4 or 3/16" you can steam and bend the top over the contour like I did with this one. 1/4" bent top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKG Posted September 3, 2003 Report Share Posted September 3, 2003 Scott is right and that looks damn good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted September 3, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2003 What did you use to steam it? Did you clamp it to the body to get the shape right? How about the outline shaping, is that done after steaming, gluing, ...? Thanks Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted September 4, 2003 Report Share Posted September 4, 2003 Keep in mind, also, that a thicker maple top will add brightness to whatever wood you're using for the bulk of the body. Thin veneers don't add anything, but you'll notice a difference in tone starting at about 1/4 to 3/8". It all depends on what sound you're after. A distinct advantage to thicker tops is that, if you make a finishing mistake, you can sand back down to wood and start all over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted September 4, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2003 Scott, can you provide a little info on how you bent that top to fit? What did you use to steam it, how did you hold it down, ...? thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted September 4, 2003 Report Share Posted September 4, 2003 I 'd recommend using a Clothes Iron. Glue the top to the flat part first then use the iron to steam the part that goes over the contour and tighten it up with as many clamps as you can fit there. Also make sure that the contour is a gradual bend and not a sharp angle where it starts or you'll risk cracking the top if you tighten it up too fast Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveq Posted September 4, 2003 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2003 Thanks Scott, Do you do the final shaping (matching the outline of the body) after doing all of this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted September 4, 2003 Report Share Posted September 4, 2003 You can rough cut the body and final shape or if you have a pin router you can use that to flush trim the top to the body. you can't use a hand router because the contour is angled and you won't have a level surface to run your router on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Rosenberger Posted September 4, 2003 Report Share Posted September 4, 2003 Also, Use care when steaming near your Bookmatch Joint as the steam will soften the glue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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