RobSm Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 What do you guys use to carve the contours in an SG? Are thet flat enough to use a plane? All advice appreciated. TIA RobSm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redwhiteandthemaple Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 Normal people just draw lines as to where they should be sanding up to, both, on the top and on the side. And get a some sort of block with sandpaper on it and sand sand sand or even file.. For tighter spots, just get a narrower piece. Contours like on SG shouldn't be too bad, compared to carved tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psw Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 My goodness a lot of Australians are joining up lately...welcome fanlee I dont think a plane would be any good...the horns would be too tight and you will hit cross grain in no time as you go around. A surforn, rasp or some other tool might be better...maybe an electric sander to start, then finish of with sandpaper. An SG has a kind of flat bevel that a router probably would not be suitable for, maybe some kind of sanding drum in a drill may be of help if you must, might be easiest in those tight horn areas... Good luck...oh and check out this recent SG that is being built at the moment and is coming down to Oz as it happens a good example with pics... johnsilver's SG for Son Thread pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 (edited) For my SG I made a slimmed down paper template of the body, outside edges being the body contour lines. Then drew the contour lines on the top, back and edges of the body (for outside edge thickness). Then I went at it with flat, round and half-round rasps, staying within the pencil lines I made. Once its roughed out I sanded with 80 grit to 320 grit. I also use a small 6" steel ruler as a "batten". Hard to describe but its used to look for irregularities on a curved surface. I got the idea from my days of using a long strip of 1/4" aluminum on boat hulls. You hold the strip flush to the surface on a slight angle so it conforms with the general curve. Then "tap" your way along the strip. From there you can find the high areas (pinch points which make no sound) and low spots (gaps where you hear the strip bouncing on the surface). Of course, you don't have to tap a small ruler, but any gaps and pinch points should be noticeable. Beware when you get to the finishing stage. Its easy to lose some of the definition in those body contour lines if paint, clear, etc. is applied too heavily. Sand those bevels carefully, using a rigid block where you can so they remain flat. Edited March 30, 2006 by Southpa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 I don't see why you can't use a well sharpened block plane, maybe low-angle, for a lot of the work. I'd probably start with that, see how it went, then switch to the microplane, shinto, and half-round rasp. For irregularities on a curved surface the size of a guitar, your fingers are the best tools you'll find, period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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