Jump to content
Site upgrade hiccups - post editor disabled....working on a fix.... ×

RobSm

Members
  • Content Count

    85
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About RobSm

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Merimbula NSW

Recent Profile Visitors

2,293 profile views
  1. HI. I am considering using a 1" (25.4mm) roundover bit - without the bearing, see photo.For feeds & speeds how should I think of it? V-bit, End mill, form bit?In ferreting out info from various sites the speeds & feeds are frightening to me .Any advice appreciated.Thanks.
  2. Hi. I have just been entertaining myself removing a fretboard from a neck with heat vinegar and a putty knife...with a view to re-using both. I've yet to completely clean up the gluing surfaces ready for the next iteration. Having got all the titebond residue off the surfaces and lightly sanding etc etc do I need to neutralise the vinegar residue with soapy water or baking soda - or anything? Where's the end point? (I don't do this a lot) Thanks, Rob.
  3. Hi. I'm playing with a 'dry run' of an ES type semi hollow body guitar. (in pine) I've watched videos done a harness and am going to glue on a pine back to practise mounting the pots jack and switch. While playing with them with no back on it's become clear to me that I'm not getting the nuts snugged anywhere near enough just using star washers. (Jack no problem - I have a 'Jack the gripper') . I f I go ahead and glue on the back & fish the harness into position I'm going to end up with sloppy nuts and/or broken solder joints. So - how are the nuts for the switch an
  4. Hi. I have a strat with a wilkinson trem which I made some time ago. The E1st string has developed a rattle all the way up ie on each fret , from about fret 10 and it even buzzes loudly on the very last fret. The string is not touching the end of the neck or the pickups. I have put plumbers' tape around every grub screw and thread I caN find gone up & down the neck with 600 grit , a stewmac fret rocker files etc etc - ie there are no high frets underlying the E 1st string. As far as I can tell the frets are seated well. I'm not sure where to look next. I think this
  5. Nice work. I agree the Un cutaway method doesn't give the desired result and then you have to fix it... I'm using Rhino basically. I have V Carve but have never tried doing complicated modelling because at this stage I'm still not experienced with the interface. Did you use cross contour profiles like those that appear on plans? If I understand correctly you stack up the contour shapes like a pancake stACK and surface them pair by pair and split and trim. Does it work arounds the cutaways? Thanks for your help.
  6. Hi. I'm modelling a cs356 (smaller 335 type) and am doing well up to a point. The sticking point is shaping the cutaways which are quite different to those of a Les Paul I have an instructional vid, but the strategy is to model an un-cutaway guitar and trim the model with a cutaway shaped surface - that gives you a sort of Les Paul cutaway. On youtube vids I've found, no one goes near the cutaways. So - any advice on where to go foe help insight and general info? Thanks, Rob.
  7. I have used a water slide decal undder shellac without any problems. Make sure you follow all the steps recommended by the decal supplier. IIRC Mine need spraying with some sort of fixer first...I mean it's not complicated it's in a spray can from the hobby shop.
  8. experiment a bit, but as I understand things, dye sits near the surface of the wood and certainly where darker dyes are, you can apply a lighter one over the top to lighten the colour. eg yellow over a darker amber looks yellow. So as a first step try dying some mahogany yellow and seeing how it looks.
  9. You would need to do a compatibility test, but shellac with talc suspended in it is a useful clear filler.
  10. Is the top contoured? It doesn't look like it, but it's hard to tell..
  11. If you're going to paint it or have a really dark part os a burst there a cheap & nasty fix is sawdust & glue. You's need some sort of backing placed on the inside. Make sure you get really nice sawdust... (sorry ..) Good Luck.
  12. In a DIY (non-industrial) set up,what would you use to do the polishing, and what's the best way to go about it? Not so much the finish on the frets, but the fingerboard?
  13. Hi. it could be Red gum see hereunder: http://www.monarotimber.com.au/sp_river_red_gum.htm It doesn't look like much fun to work. Good luck.
  14. Hi. it could be Red gum see hereunder: http://www.monarotimber.com.au/sp_river_red_gum.htm It doesn't look like much fun to work. Good luck.
  15. Hi guys. I used a heat gun & vinegar (since I figured there was enough 'safety' water in the vinegar) and a putty knife. It came apart surprisingly readily. If anyone is reading this... once I got the scraper edge into the join I applied the heat to the blade and every now & then prised the join open a bit & tipped a small amount of vinegar in & worked the blade down keeping the heat on the blade. There was a little discolouring of the wood (neck side) and surprisingly little clean up on the headstock side.
×
×
  • Create New...