RobSm

A radiused sanding block or the like doesn't have to be a 3d model if using vectric. I would use the moulding tool path which is similar to the fluting toolpath in that it's basically 2d and much quicker than machining a 3d model. Arm relief and belly relief cuts are the same and super easy to set up on a 2d plan.

HI. I am considering using a 1" (25.4mm) roundover bit - without the bearing, see photo.For feeds & speeds how should I think of it? V-bit, End mill, form bit?In ferreting out info from various sites the speeds & feeds are frightening to me .Any advice appreciated.Thanks.

Hi. I have just been entertaining myself removing a fretboard from a neck with heat vinegar and a putty knife...with a view to re-using both. I've yet to completely clean up the gluing surfaces ready for the next iteration. Having got all the titebond residue off the surfaces and lightly sanding etc etc do I need to neutralise the vinegar residue with soapy water or baking soda - or anything? Where's the end point? (I don't do this a lot) Thanks, Rob.

Hi. I'm playing with a 'dry run' of an ES type semi hollow body guitar. (in pine) I've watched videos done a harness and am going to glue on a pine back to practise mounting the pots jack and switch. While playing with them with no back on it's become clear to me that I'm not getting the nuts snugged anywhere near enough just using star washers. (Jack no problem - I have a 'Jack the gripper') . I f I go ahead and glue on the back & fish the harness into position I'm going to end up with sloppy nuts and/or broken solder joints. So - how are the nuts for the switch and pots effectively tightened in a semi hollowbody build ie with no rear access cavity? Thanks, Rob

Hi. I have a strat with a wilkinson trem which I made some time ago. The E1st string has developed a rattle all the way up ie on each fret , from about fret 10 and it even buzzes loudly on the very last fret. The string is not touching the end of the neck or the pickups. I have put plumbers' tape around every grub screw and thread I caN find gone up & down the neck with 600 grit , a stewmac fret rocker files etc etc - ie there are no high frets underlying the E 1st string. As far as I can tell the frets are seated well. I'm not sure where to look next. I think this has come on over time and indeed i'd swear on some days it's worse than others but that's a little subjective. Can anyone give me some clues and ideas on identifying the basic issue and fixing it please? All advice welcome. Thanks, Rob.

Nice work. I agree the Un cutaway method doesn't give the desired result and then you have to fix it... I'm using Rhino basically. I have V Carve but have never tried doing complicated modelling because at this stage I'm still not experienced with the interface. Did you use cross contour profiles like those that appear on plans? If I understand correctly you stack up the contour shapes like a pancake stACK and surface them pair by pair and split and trim. Does it work arounds the cutaways? Thanks for your help.

Hi. I'm modelling a cs356 (smaller 335 type) and am doing well up to a point. The sticking point is shaping the cutaways which are quite different to those of a Les Paul I have an instructional vid, but the strategy is to model an un-cutaway guitar and trim the model with a cutaway shaped surface - that gives you a sort of Les Paul cutaway. On youtube vids I've found, no one goes near the cutaways. So - any advice on where to go foe help insight and general info? Thanks, Rob.

Hi. I have a strat with a wilkinson VS type trem the problem is the e 1st string rattles virtually all the way up including the very last fret with nothing between it and the bridge. I've spent ages with 600 grit looking for high spots and have tried the nail polish down the grub screw trick but nothing works. the problem has reappeared after being apparently fixed quite a while ago. the bridge saddle lock screws are tight the b 2nd string has the same problem to a much lesser extent - from about 13th fret up.. I have no idea where to look next. Please help! :o) Thanks, Rob.

I say this with all sincerity - don't do it. Find a friend with a table saw - make a little cross cut sled and do the slots with the stewmac blade and template or similar. Heaps of vids on You Tube. Cutting by hand is tedious beyond belief and in all likelihood not as accurate or consistent as the table saw and jig. People use band saws too but IIRC it takes modifying a blade which I thought was too peligroso - but then a gain I don't have a bandsaw. I cut by hand as some sort of right of passage to show myself that I could do it - and I could - but after a few iterations I found a $100.00 still in the box table saw (which needed quite a bit of attention to square) and dedicated it to cutting fret slots. Best decision I ever made regarding fretting. Good Luck! Regards, Rob.

do you know what the body wood is? was the tuning correct (gotta ask the banal questions) ? Maybe you could use 8-32 inserts or the like or larger if you have to drill out the wrecked screw holes..send a picture or two... good luck.. Rob

thanks for the info. I was wondering about the wisdom of it since on the table saw with a template and jig it's no big job. I'm just learning all the processes ie cad/cam at this stage. I'll play with the lines.. :o) Regards, Rob.

Hi. I'm learning Rhino 3D. So I have a fretboard modelled, tapered radiused - compound no less - and all the fret positions for a number of scale lengths to hand. Do I make in modelling terms the fret line the centre of a .023" dado ie slot? Will the model programme go so low? Are there settings to be changed? workarounds? Thanks, Rob.

Hi. I'm learning Rhino 3D. So I have a fretboard modelled, tapered radiused - compound no less - and all the fret positions for a number of scale lengths to hand. Do I make in modelling terms the fret line the centre of a .023" dado ie slot? Will the model programme go so low? Are there settings to be changed? workarounds? Thanks, Rob.

Hi. I have worked up a model of a neck (non Fender) and was wondering how the cutting would be done on a CNC. Would the blank be scarf jointed and machined as a single unit or would the headstock and other part be done separately and glued together when finished? That would require some tricky gluing I think. Or do the headstock, glue up the scarf & do the neck proper? Thanks, Rob.

just in case anyone reads this through idle curiosity...I couldn't get the boolean difference to work....I went back to the file with the neck pocket already cut, did the fillet edge command and made a shitload of handles around the neck pocket edges and reduced the radii to '0' and slowly increased them... and it worked...not only that the same method worked on the tummy cut and arm relief edges - - only I only reduced the radius to .125 no '0'. The boolean difference method worked well for me doing the tummy cut using konalure's method made a little more accurate by adding 3 points on the drawing's curve and a point on the edge at the depth there and the sphere through 4 point option. I used his method for the arm rest and again defined a point to get the designed depth on the edge/side. I'm just playing around here and trying not to head but the screen... I should've started with a TELE....