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Want To Replace Saddle And Nut

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I assume that I should go with a bone Nut and Saddle. The saddle is pretty self explanatory on how to replace it. But what about the nut? Not sure how to go about removing and replacing it. What are the steps one should take.

Also, any paticular brand I should be looking at?

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What do you mean by "self explanatory"? I hate to say it but if you have no idea how to remove the nut you may need to do a bit more research on the saddle.

See www.frets.com for a pretty good tutorial on saddle making, though he freehands it to lower it and I find a small square is best to keep the bottom square. And I guarantee if it's not the tone will get worse, not better. Plus, the fit should be snug bit not too tight. If so you can split the bridge.

Or you could just check out www.guitarsaddles.com ... Bob makes nice saddles, that's what I put in my Seagull. Gull saddles have rather complicated compensation so I went with his semi custom approach.

If my saddle just had a rounded top (or just B string compensation) I'd have bought bone blanks that had the bottom already milled flat. Then you can just work on it from the top. You obviously have to know what the height should be (which isn't as easy as many say) but that way you know you're going to get good contact with the bottom of the saddle slot. Assuming the slot bottom is actually flat ... not that self explanatory, is it?

The abvve mentioned sources are probably a good place to go for making a nut, but that's not something I'd do anyway. It's fiddly ... a couple of thou really make a difference. And if you don't have files (some people hack out saws from feeler gauges but I don't see how you're going to get smooth string slots that way) you could get a new nut made by a professional for much less than the tools cost.

As I said, I wouldn't make a nut but if you want to tinker, go ahead.

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some people hack out saws from feeler gauges but I don't see how you're going to get smooth string slots that way

I use feeler gauges and it works perfectly. Cuts through even bone nicely and leaves strait clean lines.

It took me about four tries (buy a bunch of blanks) but after that first "learning peroid" It's really not that hard to make a nut. Just follow the directions on www.frets.com

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