Druss Posted April 4, 2006 Report Posted April 4, 2006 (edited) Look at this monstrosity, I bet I should have already addressed this beast. Oh well I should be used to doing every thing the hard way by now. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0510.jpg This is what I'm going to try for, it's the heel of my Washburn bass it's the most comfortable heel I've played with. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0511.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0512.jpg I think I can remove a lot of the wood with a router then finish it up with my new best friend ( the rasp) and cross my fingers. Edited April 4, 2006 by Druss Quote
Mattia Posted April 4, 2006 Report Posted April 4, 2006 Honestly, I'd do all of that with rasps/shintos/surforms/microplanes. Taking that down to a finished, smoothed out heel, with good hand tools, should only take about 10 minutes. But I'd also gently smooth the neck carve into the body, not end it quite as abruptly as on that Washburn. If you want to route, build a solid platform for the router to ride on, becase a slip at this point will have you kicking yourself. Quote
Daniel Sorbera Posted April 4, 2006 Report Posted April 4, 2006 But I'd also gently smooth the neck carve into the body, not end it quite as abruptly as on that Washburn. My thoughts exatly. It looks like that washburn is prone to weakness at the heel because it's too abrupt. Quote
Druss Posted April 4, 2006 Author Report Posted April 4, 2006 (edited) I didn't do it exactly like the Washburn, I really didn't need to. The reason I like the heel of my Washburn is because of how easy it is to play the higher frets but sense the body of my guitar is all the way past the fret board I shouldn't have to worry about fret access. I still have to finish sanding but this what I've done so far. http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0525.jpg http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y39/Reave...ga/100_0533.jpg Edited April 4, 2006 by Druss Quote
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