Mickguard Posted April 18, 2006 Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 I'm wondering if it's possible to use the acrylic clear (automotive rattle can stuff) as a sanding sealer? I don't like the only sealers I've been able to find here --both are brush on, and neither seems to get me the look I want. I'm thinking that with a spray can, I'll get better coverage. I'm pretty sure I read about someone using that here, but my search didn't turn it up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 18, 2006 Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 Regular clear lacquer is fine as a sealer. I believe 'sanding sealers' are just regular lacquer with soap added to it for sanding's sake. It may be a little more high solids but probaly not much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted April 18, 2006 Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 I'm still new to this so don't get a few other opinions also, but I have read a lot where guys will just use laquer and skip the sanding sealer. Most sanding sealer is a little softer and has a higher solids content though. It is meant to develop a protective coating quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al heeley Posted April 18, 2006 Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 Aren't sanding sealers clear shellac or nitro? These should be brush or wipe-on, doing this with an aerosol seemas wasteful and expensive, although it should do a similar thing, which is basically to go into the wood pores and set off so the wood does not act like a sponge when the paint is applied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 18, 2006 Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 You shouldn't have problems if you grain fill the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted April 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 You shouldn't have problems if you grain fill the body. The problem I'm having is that I can't find a decent grain filler --I've tried two types that I've found here, both were brush on, neither gave me great results --partly because I don't think they mixed well with the acrylic rattlecan paints I used after. So what I'm thinking is using acrylic finish as the grain filler/sealer, then primer and paint. (For the final clearcoat, I'm going to look for a body shop). Think I'll test it on scrap this weekend... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted April 18, 2006 Report Share Posted April 18, 2006 I'd stay away from using lacquer like that, it's soft enough to begin with. Building thicker coats it'll never dry, especially rattle can stuff. Have you tried using epoxy for grainfiller? I use it to fill more porous woods like mahogany, and it fills in great, dries fast and hard. All you gotta do is sand it flat and start painting over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted April 19, 2006 Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 +1 on the epoxy grain fill. Many go this route, with good results. If he is sucessful, with MAHOGANY, than it'll suit you, well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted April 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2006 Okay, I'll give the epoxy a go... haven't tried that yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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