Flat, Dull Clearcoat ...

[Dino]

Can anyone give me some pointers on how to acheive a flat, dull finish with clearcoat?

I'm only interested in suggestions and techniques regarding acrylic urethane, no crap in a can (Krylon).

My paint supplier claims there is a 2-pac flat clearcoat available and that the degree of the flat finish can be altered by changing the mixture levels of the additive. Kinda cool, but I've never tried it and I've never been one to shoot clearcoat and just leave it.

I'd like to take more of a "hands-on" approach but I'm afraid working with this flat clearcoat (sanding, steel wool, etc.) will "cloud" the color and definition of the graphics beneath the clearcoat. I'm not sure that would be the case, but it is a concern.

My thought was to maybe clearcoat the body in a standard glossy clearcoat, sand it flat and then go over it with 0000 steel wool. I'm thinking this may give me the same results without the risk of "clouding" the paint.

Have any of you ever used either one of these techniques?

And if so, what are your thoughts?

Thanks!

[oz tradie]

My paint supplier claims there is a 2-pac flat clearcoat available and that the degree of the flat finish can be altered by changing the mixture levels of the additive

Your paint supplier knows his stuff, as he should.

Most reputable paint companies use this type of system to create a clear coat of differing gloss levels.

I've used it quite a bit through the years on Automotive resprays & pro restorations and have found it to be

a great way to get a satin effect.

The only downside that I've found with this method is that in most (not all) cases,

doing it this way can cause problems when running a buff over the clearcoat .

cutting the clear back with a buff can effect the gloss levels in the area you're buffing.

It sometimes makes that area a little bit more glossier than unbuffed areas.

I still reckon the old high grit wet sand back option works really well also.

[al heeley]

We used to add a little thixotrope powder (Fumed silica or 'cab-o-sil') to a clear coat to knock the gloss back, when I worked in surface coatings. It's a very fine fluffy powder that sits at the dried surface and basically gives tiny bumpiness to the surface that causes light scatter, rather than a perfectly smooth mirrot-like finished surface.

All you are doing with a fine and gentle sanding is introducing very small surface contours/lines/scratches, call them what you will, which causes light scatter and takes the glossiness off. I stick with the wet sand/scotchbrite pad method myself.

[Dino]

You guys make some good points.

I've decided to just shoot the gloss urethane, sand it flat and steel wool it nice and smooth.

I think that they provide the look I'm going for.

Here's a pic of the body I'll be doing this on (before clearcoat).

[oz tradie]

Since when did Van Halen join the army ?

That's looking good.

[Racer X]

You guys make some good points.

I've decided to just shoot the gloss urethane, sand it flat and steel wool it nice and smooth.

I think that they provide the look I'm going for.

Here's a pic of the body I'll be doing this on (before clearcoat).

haha. See the pics made it to this forum, too, Dino. Been drooling over them, over at JCF.

Back to the issue: Don't forget that sanding sponges are readily available, too. I use them, on my necks, once I'm done shooting them, to degloss them, and they work quite nicely, especially since they retain the water better than just sandpaper, and they follow the contours, nicely. Plus, you can get them in different grits.

Edited June 2, 2006 by Racer X

[Dino]

Thanks Racer X!

Trying to acheive a dull finish is something totally new for me and quite different then I'm used to doing, so I'm trying to get as much input as possible on this.

Someone over on the JFC forum suggested the steel wool idea, so I thought I'd give it a try.

As pointed out, the 2-pac dull clearcoat shines up in areas that wear, and I'd like to try to avoid that.

I did a good wet coat of gloss urethane last night, sanded it flat, and used some 0000 steel wool in an area just to experiment and it really turned out nice.

Due to the multiple layers caused by the camo graphics and stripes, I shot another coat so I could wetsand all of the layers flat.

It looks like two coats of this stuff is all I'm gonna need.

A far cry from the 30+ coats of Krylon I used to spray.

[Racer X]

Now, you be sure to post pics of this beast, okay? I'm gonna be real interested in how it looks, as will many others.

[oz tradie]

Just one more thing.

Let the coats of clear dry off thoroughly before attacking it.

The golden rule is, the thicker the paint the longer you should leave it for all the solvents to dissipate.

Progress pics. are a definite must !!

[Dino]

Thanks for all the help guys.

oz,

Here's a pic which pretty much illustrates the whole process of creating the graphic.

I'll be sure to post more pics when it's done.

Edited June 3, 2006 by Dino

[oz tradie]

It's without a doubt a real test of patience, and skill to boot !!

beautiful...beautiful...beautiful