1guitarslinger Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 I'm wanting to do up a Tele swamp ash body quickly, and want it to be as glossy as possible, yet do it fast with one of these. Now before anyone goes off about searching etc. I just need some quick advice. 1. Which one would be best, tung or Tru-oil? 2. Best way to apply it? 3. Should I fill first? 4. Best way to buff it out Any and all tips will be greatly appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 Now before anyone goes off about searching etc. I just need some quick advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 A few points: 1) You want gloss. Tru-Oil can do a decent semi-gloss to gloss finish, from what I've seen. Not sure it's much faster, though. The finishing process (oil or hard film finish) takes about the same number of days, maybe oil a little longer because it takes longer to dry. 2) You HAVE TO fill the grain if you want a high-gloss look. 4) StewMac/3M Finesse-It foam pads are good for budget buffing. But if you want gloss, get a filler, get some lacquer, and grow some patience. Or, if you've got an auto spray place around, prep and fill the body and see if you can get them to shoot some clear for you, or something. Automotive stuff dries hard and fast and can get buffed quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1guitarslinger Posted July 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 You guys helped me quite a bit right there. Thanks for the responses. And Mick, I will search for that thread. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Irizarry Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 And Mick, I will search for that thread. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1guitarslinger Posted July 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 It's definitely a worthwhile read and interesting stuff that Mick was working with. I must agree. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted July 16, 2006 Report Share Posted July 16, 2006 It's definitely a worthwhile read and interesting stuff that Mick was working with. I must agree. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al heeley Posted July 19, 2006 Report Share Posted July 19, 2006 Am I correct in understanding that tru-oil (or tung oil) if applied with wet'n'dry (400 - 600 grit) will act as a sealer itself, combining with dust and filling the pores? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 You said you want to 'do it quick', in which case I would use clear or tinted 2-part epoxy to grain/pore fill to level, then go ahead with whatever oil finish you choose. Using the epoxy will get you filled and level FAR quicker than trying to use the oil, although I would add a little acetone to the epoxy to thin it out a little first, it's a little too thick for me in it's unaltered state for pore-filling purposes, but it will do it quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJohnson Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 Tung oil looks awsome but it takes alot of coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdw3332 Posted July 22, 2006 Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 You said you want to 'do it quick', in which case I would use clear or tinted 2-part epoxy to grain/pore fill to level, then go ahead with whatever oil finish you choose. Using the epoxy will get you filled and level FAR quicker than trying to use the oil, although I would add a little acetone to the epoxy to thin it out a little first, it's a little too thick for me in it's unaltered state for pore-filling purposes, but it will do it quick. Drak, Will an oil soak into the wood through epoxy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted July 22, 2006 Report Share Posted July 22, 2006 Well, if you sand the epoxy back to the point that it's just in the pores and that's it, then you will have exposed the raw wood once again (minus the pores/grain) and I guess it would accept the oil to some extent on the exposed part of the wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregSP Posted July 26, 2006 Report Share Posted July 26, 2006 Newbie here... ...All tung oil isn't tung oil. By that I mean just because it says tung oil on the can, doesn't mean it is tung oil. For example, the MinWax tung oil you get at Home Depot is tung oil mixed with varnish. Nothing wrong with that necessarily, just pointing out that there are lot of products that say they are tung oil, but are something different than what you expect. Various other tung oils may contain blends of other oils and/or varnish. The advantage of the Minwax tung oil over real tung oil is that the Minwax hardens up in a reasonable amount of time. 100% tung oil takes a long, long time. Usually if a product is pure tung oil they will proudly mark that fact on the can. If it is a blend, then you have to play detective and read the ingredients. The reason why I mention all this is because if someone mentions tung oil, they might be talking about a specific product that may or may not be 100% tung oil, so the question is a little more complicated that it seems at first. I believe that Warmoth doesn't warranty bodies or necks finished with tung oil for this reason, there are simply too many products out there claiming to be tung oil for them to verify each one of them. So they have a blanket no tung oil policy. Tru-oil is polymerized tung oil. Similar in feel and application, but dries harder and faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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