GoodWood Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 I got a "glue up" table saw blade from Eagle Hardware and unfortunately, it didnt work out my first cuts. It may have been that the boards are not flat all the way through or something, but it would be a dream to just run the dang things through a blade and glue them up. Im back to file, Plane, white pencil, and light. (light board comming up soon!) Anyone have easier ways to glue up backs and fronts? I think with a light table, they would go alot faster, have it set so one side centers on it, match, mark, plane a bit, until they mate. Ive also been looking at the 'level sander', I used a large old plane, like 22 " but they were op[en in the middle. This looks to be the easiest way, if you can get the sanding smooth along a long strait edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 (edited) Can you swing $150 for a 4" electric jointer planer? Because that's a pretty quick and easy fix that's sure to work perfectly...no light table needed! Edited February 21, 2007 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 I'd blame the tablesaw (is it set up dead-square, solid, no excess vibration, etc. etc.) before blaming a saw blade. Then I'd blame the user. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biliousfrog Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 The problem that I've found with using a plane (& I'm sure that a jointer would be the same) is that they can make a mess of funky grain patterns such as quilted maple. I found the easiest way to get a decent joint is with 80 grit sandpaper on a straight edge. A low grit also helps the wood fibres to "mesh" together when glued which is difficult to achieve if the joint has a perfectly smooth finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 normal planes and planers will wreak havoc on funky grain, and sometimes abrasive planing (ie, sanding) is the only real way forward, but plane iron geometry also has a lot to do with it; high-angle frog/iron, 50 or even 60 degrees, set for fine shavings, can tackle all but the most insane grained wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 There was a thread not too long ago about joining. link Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodWood Posted February 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 There was a thread not too long ago about joining. link Peace,Rich Thanks Fryovanni, thats about what I got going, what do you use to stick the sandpaper to the plane? Is that 2 pieces of paper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 There was a thread not too long ago about joining. link Peace,Rich Thanks Fryovanni, thats about what I got going, what do you use to stick the sandpaper to the plane? Is that 2 pieces of paper? It is just a piece from a adhesive backed roll of sand paper. It is just one piece that is folded over the side of the plane. I only stick it there while I touch up the sides(I don't want it to gum up my planes sole). I use my joiner first(which is probably close enough for most), but the couple quick passes touch up any jointer chatter giving me really quite nice joints. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted February 21, 2007 Report Share Posted February 21, 2007 A lot of times when I'm having trouble planing a figured board, dampening the edge to be planed helps heaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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