Mattia Posted April 2, 2007 Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 hehe...mattia posted whilst i was typing.only difference is the drill holes,which i think would help make sure the joint clamps tight,especially in harder woods You're right, I think. The vast majority of my necks are primarily made of mahogany, which is soft enough not to really require drilling. I do drill when indexing fingerboards, mostly because I prefer to take the brads out again afterwards (go in at first and 13th fret or so), because if the board ever needs to come off, it's easier not to have little bits of metal sticking up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted April 2, 2007 Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 If the scarf is cut while the block is still square ie, before the side tapers are cut, then there will be ample wood on the sides to sink screws, or whatever as well as use clamps. When everything has dried and set remove the screws and clamps and that holey wood will be gone when the side tapers are cut off. So cut the scarf then clamp together exactly where it needs to be, without using any glue. Drill pilot holes on either side for the screws, glue and clamp and then suck the pieces together with the wood screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted April 2, 2007 Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 Not to labour the point, but if you use the tape mothed, you don't need anything else. I have tried Cumpianbo's board method, I've tried brads, staples, cocktail skewers, etc etc, and the tape method takes seconds, and is totally fool proof. Try it, you won't go back. I'd also agree wioth the people who questioned leaving titebond to stand for 15 mins before clamping. It'll probably be OK, but it's less than ideal, and depending on climate it could lead to joint failure. I aim to get critical joints slathered and clamped up in less than a minute where possible. It's all good practice for when I get started on acoustics with hot hide... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmarlin Posted April 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 I wish I would have asked this before I did it because that joint was sliding all over the place. I put the neck in the vise upright and was basicly hanging from the top of the headstock pulling down while I tightened the clamps but it still slid. So I am going to see if I can salvage it as is or maybe just cut out a section and do a laminate like Godin SD did in one of his scarf joints using the techniques here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted April 2, 2007 Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 It's all good practice for when I get started on acoustics with hot hide... You betcha, I really wish I could get my speed up on every task. HHG sure is nice for clean up and sets up good and fast. I love that stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted April 2, 2007 Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 I wish I would have asked this before I did it because that joint was sliding all over the place. I put the neck in the vise upright and was basicly hanging from the top of the headstock pulling down while I tightened the clamps but it still slid. So I am going to see if I can salvage it as is or maybe just cut out a section and do a laminate like Godin SD did in one of his scarf joints using the techniques here. Cut off the headstock with a bandsaw, or preferred tool. Route preferred angle, add laminate, re-scarf joint. Works wonders! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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