capu Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 I saw that guy there too. Did you get the already inlaid into the precut fretboard? Cause that's like $80+ ish) Anyways I wanted to see how it looked in a finished guitar before i purchased one. I think it looks great. Good job on the axe. I bought the on that was simply cut (that costed about $35) and then I did the inlay using epoxy resin. Let me know if you have any question ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capu Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2007 that really helped! thx, capu! but one more question, when you carved the body (between the edges and flat zone) using a chisel, did u carve it flat (not curved) first and then contuored it (to make it curved) with sandpaper or what? In picture #2 you can see the rought curving (the picture has been taken from the bridge of the guitar looking in the direction of the neck pocket). As you can see from the pictures I curved all the top with the chisel as near as possible to the final shape. The sand paper has been used only to get a smooth surface. Let me know if you have any other question ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cukaracha Posted June 14, 2007 Report Share Posted June 14, 2007 (edited) would it be advisable arch the body using a wood file and filing it in 'stages' (gradually increasing the angle as you move closer to the edge) and finally sanding it? example: Note: i'm not sure if anyone will be able to understand that pic, but thats the best i can do using microsoft paint.. Edited June 14, 2007 by cukaracha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capu Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 would it be advisable arch the body using a wood file and filing it in 'stages' (gradually increasing the angle as you move closer to the edge) and finally sanding it? example: Note: i'm not sure if anyone will be able to understand that pic, but thats the best i can do using microsoft paint.. I see what you mean. The answer is yes, you can do it in that way but (there is always a "but" ) it depends on the curving shape you want: in my case, see picture 4, the technique you proposed cannot work because the file can only produce positive surfaces and in my case there is a concave section near to the border. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cukaracha Posted June 15, 2007 Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 i plan to mod an Ibanez RG Series shaped body to make it have an arched top. in your opinion (since you're far more experienced than i am..), how do you think i should arch it? heres an example of the body: which type of arch should i do?: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capu Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 i plan to mod an Ibanez RG Series shaped body to make it have an arched top. in your opinion (since you're far more experienced than i am..), how do you think i should arch it? This is a nice question. It depends on what you like more. What I can suggest you is to consider the rounded part where you put the arm (in your picture is the part in the botton left corner): the curving you will do has to be "compatible" with that shape. Probably the best solution can be to eliminate that rounded part (by gluing a piece of wood) and then curve the body. I hope my answer will help you. Let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 15, 2007 Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 I like my arches like #3, only with a little more recurve (scoop on the edge). Latest one I did, spruce top, still needs to get finished on the inside and the recurve isn't carved yet: I tend to mark the edge thickness (the 7mm listed uptop) by 'simply' routing the flat edge all the way around the top, width depending on the carve shape. I actually feel I have the most control, particularly in figured woods, with an angle grinder fitted with a sanding/flap disk. Sounds weird, but the speed actually makes it very effective at removing wood fast, and it doesn't take long to develop a 'feel' for it. That top was carved in about 15 minutes from a very blocky hunky of spruce, and only required a little bit of cleanup/fine-tuning, which was done with a violin maker's plane in the waist areas/sharp areas, then about 5 minutes with an orbital sander (120 grit paper), and a few more with a sanding block (cork) and 220 grit paper. Fast, effective, controllable...only major problem is it's incredibly dusty/messy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capu Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 I like my arches like #3, only with a little more recurve (scoop on the edge). I tend to mark the edge thickness (the 7mm listed uptop) by 'simply' routing the flat edge all the way around the top, width depending on the carve shape. I actually feel I have the most control, particularly in figured woods, with an angle grinder fitted with a sanding/flap disk. Sounds weird, but the speed actually makes it very effective at removing wood fast, and it doesn't take long to develop a 'feel' for it. That top was carved in about 15 minutes from a very blocky hunky of spruce, and only required a little bit of cleanup/fine-tuning, which was done with a violin maker's plane in the waist areas/sharp areas, then about 5 minutes with an orbital sander (120 grit paper), and a few more with a sanding block (cork) and 220 grit paper. Fast, effective, controllable...only major problem is it's incredibly dusty/messy! Very very interesting!!! My curvin took me about 12 hours :S Can you please explain me better what you mean with "angle grinder fitted with a sanding/flap disk"? Can you post a picture of that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 15, 2007 Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 Very very interesting!!! My curvin took me about 12 hours :S Can you please explain me better what you mean with "angle grinder fitted with a sanding/flap disk"? Can you post a picture of that? This thing. It's agressive, noisy, but fast and controllable if you have a nice, light touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cukaracha Posted June 15, 2007 Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 (edited) haha.. i wonder how many years mine will take.. i don't have ANY proper tools and it really expensive to buy them where i live.. also, any suggestions on how i can get rid of the arm rest area before arching the top? (the arm rest area is curved.. how am i supposed to shape a piece of wood to make it fit..??) Note: pls excuse my lack of knowledge for.. everything.. i'm very inexperienced in woodworking.. Edited June 15, 2007 by cukaracha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capu Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 Very very interesting!!! My curvin took me about 12 hours :S Can you please explain me better what you mean with "angle grinder fitted with a sanding/flap disk"? Can you post a picture of that? This thing. It's agressive, noisy, but fast and controllable if you have a nice, light touch. Just a question: do you use this technique also for the curving of the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capu Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 haha.. i wonder how many years mine will take.. i don't have ANY proper tools and it really expensive to buy them where i live.. also, any suggestions on how i can get rid of the arm rest area before arching the top? (the arm rest area is curved.. how am i supposed to shape a piece of wood to make it fit..??) Note: pls excuse my lack of knowledge for.. everything.. i'm very inexperienced in woodworking.. The best will be to create a flat surface in the arm rest area or you can (with a router, with a planner or something else) create a kind of pocket in that you will glue a wook block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 15, 2007 Report Share Posted June 15, 2007 I use this for pretty much all the carving on a solidbody these days; belly cut, back carve, top carve, all of it. You're using a tool designed to 'do' metal for wood, so you can go ahead and get a cheap, nasty angle grinder (like, 15-25 dollars cheap) and buy a flap disk, and have at it. You really don't need a dewalt or bosch for this kind of thing. Heck, I've got a green bosch (not bad, not great) that's totally overkill, and it didn't cost more than 50 dollars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyManAndy Posted July 2, 2007 Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 Hey capu, I just love that mahogany/birdseye maple PRS you made, and I have a few questions about it. What type of mahogany is that? Is your finish just oil (i.e. no grain filling, staining, etc.)? What kind of oil did you use? Beautiful guitars, by the way! CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capu Posted July 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2007 Hello Andy, I'll be very pleased to answer to your questions. Let's start with these ones ;-) I don't know exactly what kind of mahogany it is (I suppose african one), I bought a tree slice (as I love to call it): it was a piece of mahogany of 3m of length and 60cm of width. The finish is just oil: I didn't apply any other product on it a part on the fretboard that, due to the fact it is maple, it tends to become grey, I applied a couple of coats if sandind sealer. On the mahogany I applied an oil that is a little redish and enhances the beatiful color of this wood. This is the link of the product I used: http://www.saratogasforza.com/ita/products...3-88BCD095D74F} I suppose that you will not have any particular problem in finding a similar product: it is simply oil for mahogany. The main advantage of this kind of finish is the sound: pure wood. I really love the sound of this guitar: full and warm. Let me know if you have any other question. Hey capu, I just love that mahogany/birdseye maple PRS you made, and I have a few questions about it. What type of mahogany is that? Is your finish just oil (i.e. no grain filling, staining, etc.)? What kind of oil did you use? Beautiful guitars, by the way! CMA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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