Jimmy Page's Diagram

[Kappasitanz]

im just stuck here ... can somebody help me plz

supposedly the design part is over.... anyway im open to any suggestions meanwhile i get the parts i still need

this was the outcome

Edited July 27, 2007 by Kappasitanz

[rubber314chicken]

yeah, as soon as I can find the drawing, the only problem is the mini switches will have to be on-on-on if you still want cut coil, and then you can move the series/parallel and phase shift to the volumes, and then have the cap selector on the tones. lemme just find that drawing...

[Kappasitanz]

whoa whoa rigth!!! series-paralel/coiltap .... whoa youre a genious XD tnx

wating anxiously for the diagram

[rubber314chicken]

if you can't find the switches for the series/cut/parallel, then you can use an on/on switch, and take a spst switch, and connect it between the jumper at the top of the switch for each on/on/on switch, and ground, to allow you to switch to cut coil with it (but only in series, so you could have parallel/cut or series/cut)

p.s. sorry for the bad quality. its 1 am, and I have no skill in paint, so if someone can read it, and wants to re draw it, be my guest.

Edited July 16, 2007 by rubber314chicken

[Kappasitanz]

no prob dude tnx

i think i will figure out (and btw i can find on on on dpdt switches nearby)

i see the image now *goes for photoshop* ill redoit and post it here

Edited July 16, 2007 by Kappasitanz

[Kappasitanz]

done!!

[rubber314chicken]

close, but on the neck pickup, the top wire is the south start, and the bottom wire is the north start. its is a mirror image of the bridge. the way you have it now will be out of phase.

and your treble bleed cap is on thje wrong 2 lugs, it should be between the input and the output. (left 2)

Edited July 16, 2007 by rubber314chicken

[Kappasitanz]

[rubber314chicken]

yep. I'm not really seeing how that kill switch works, most are spst, so they would have two lugs.

[Kappasitanz]

i know its werid but arcade switches toggle between two circuits momentarily so the normal closed circuit is between the outer prongs and when you press the button you close the circuit in the upper and center prong leaving the lower one open i think thats the best switch for that application

[Samba Pa Ti]

do you mean a leaf switch ? thats the most common "arcade button" switch, i think it would be a pain to fit into a guitar, and afaik that isnt how they work or are weird up.

[Kappasitanz]

i already made it fit and yes its wired backwards i already tested it with my continuity checker stuff XD

[JohnH]

Interesting work. If youd like to compare against another expanded JP mod, you may be interested to check this out. Fully designed built and tested twice. It does single, series, parallel, phasing, sytem series/parallel, inner/outer coil selection, always with optimum hum cancelling and intuitive controls!

http://guitarnuts2.proboards45.com/index.c...read=1181507361

John

[Kappasitanz]

^

dude , you said something about the full HB in series in a previous tread i wrote bout this diagram.

well, i wanted to know if the neck tone pot( or any other pot) will still be working with this wiring config (series mode)

[JohnH]

^

dude , you said something about the full HB in series in a previous tread i wrote bout this diagram.

well, i wanted to know if the neck tone pot( or any other pot) will still be working with this wiring config (series mode)

With the designs I posted, the volume and tone pots continue to operate independently on their respective pups, when in series mode. So you couls have eg , a neck Hb with treble fully reduced, at half volume, added in series to a full bridge single or HB, with max treble and volume.

John

[rubber314chicken]

in the jp one, in series, it only uses the neck pickup, volume.

[Kappasitanz]

done.... i hope i didint screw up much...

Edited July 24, 2007 by Kappasitanz

[rubber314chicken]

no, because the south isn't grounded. this is the pest you could do with a push pull pot. it will not work with the selector on the bridge position. to do that you would need to have a 3pdt switch.

oh and the ground on the bridge coil- that is just the ground off the phase shifter.

Edited July 24, 2007 by rubber314chicken

[Kappasitanz]

whoa whoa i didnt get it.... each hot-ground pair is the outs of the on on on switches??

[rubber314chicken]

n/m what I said. I've been looking at it for 20 minutes, and if you take the south from the neck, and put it directly to the right middle lug, and ground the right lug of the pot then it will be fine.

Edited July 25, 2007 by rubber314chicken

[Kappasitanz]

and i will have hehe nice XD updating

[Kappasitanz]

upgrade complete

[rubber314chicken]

take the South from the neck, and put it directly to the right middle lug, and ground the right lug of the pot, and take out the other wire from the right lug of the pot. Then it will be perfect.

-note I am talking about doing it from the one in #17

Edited July 26, 2007 by rubber314chicken

[Kappasitanz]

-whoops

done

any ideas or improvements just keep em coming!

Edited July 27, 2007 by Kappasitanz

[Magnus]

I'd be interested in how you like the wiring when you're done.

And which ones you like the best after a month or two.