fyb Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 I have this band saw and it's worked OK for most things I've thrown at it, but lately I just can't get it to cut straight at all. Even when you feed the stock very slowly and very straight, the blade veers off to the right and binds. What could be causing this? I don't know how adjustable these things are. What should i look for? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs man Posted August 27, 2007 Report Share Posted August 27, 2007 I would start by checking the blade might be dull or you need to adjust the guide blocks. there might be uper and lower guide blocks that need ajusting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 Is your blade tensioned properly? Are all the ball bearings locked in place and adjusted to where they should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyb Posted August 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 (edited) Is your blade tensioned properly? Are all the ball bearings locked in place and adjusted to where they should be? I haven't touched the tension, but I've been using the saw for light jobs for a few months now. Where would there be ball bearings? I've got roller guides. I don't know how adjustable they are though. Edited August 28, 2007 by fyb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 It sounds like you would benifit from revisiting your owners manual. Highland hardware has some handy information on bandsaws. Lenox offers tips on blades and troubleshoting also. A bandsaw is a tool that is pretty simple, but there are a lot of things that can impact the operation. You need to ensure the machine is in good working order. Starting with the wheels(they need to be aligned, check them). You need to look at the tires, are they in good working order. You need to make sure the guides, arm and such are solid and not loose. I will get back to the blade later, but lets assume the blade is new and in perfect condition. You need to open all your guides and make sure nothing is touching the blade. Adjust your blade tension so that you get proper beam strength(do not trust your tension guide marks, they are likely to produce a setting that is very low. Beam strength is all that counts).Spin the blade by hand and adjust the upper wheel to ensure it tracks properly on the wheels(of course before doing any of this the machine should be unplugged). Again no guides touch the blade at this point and the blade. Now use a machinists square to set the table square to the blade. Now you can adjust your side guides. The key to doing this well is to not deflect the blade while you adgust your guides(the guides are set very very close but should not touch the blade). Depending on the type of guides you may be able to get extreamly close, but the blade will not benifit from being forced into place. During operation you will get some buildup(pitch, resin and what not) which can cause the blade to bind, or deflect more to one side or the other. It is a good idea to frequently clean your blade(I use mineral spirits, but you can buy other types of blade cleaners). One thing that is helpful while making these adjustments is to spin the wheel and look at the guides as the blade is moving, to see how well the clearance is set. Finally you want to bring in the rear bearings, again you want this close but you don't want the blade to ride on the guide. Now double check all your operations and setting to make sure the blade is tracking spot on and is square to the table. Before you can set your guide to use the saw. You need to find out what angle the blade is tracking at naturally. This may very well not be perfectly parallel to your table or the fence. This is where the ability to adjust your table is a must. You can attach a clip on(or even magnetic) straight edge to more easily see the angle of the blade. Be sure your fence is set parallel to the blade. That should set your machine up properly. Now blades. I could go on about how the teeth cut, set angles, kerf, metals, and on and on. Go to the lenox site and read up on blades. They have a wealth of information(everything you would need to know). They also give good tips on troubleshooting blade wear issues. One thing that can never be said enough though. Is that everytime your not using the machine release the blade tension(this is huge). You need to choose the right blade for your machine, the width of your cuts, the type of material you are cutting. Several guys on the board can chime in with recommendations if you want to give some more details on what you are cutting. Vaccume. You need to have a vaccume drawing dust away from the machine while you are cutting. This is not a dust control issue, this relates to blade performance. You need to help the blade clear the material being removed, avoid clogging and build up on the tires, guides etc... There are more hot rod tips you can get into, but the basic functional setting up is most important. You will find some hot rod tips will make setup easier, more reliable, and help the machine hold its set up. However you should be realistic about the bandsaw itself. If you think about it as a car you are using to race around a circle track. This saw may be like a compact street car, where a large Laguna may be a formula 1 car. You can learn to drive a street car with great skill, and hop it up. However you have to know the harder you push it the harder it will be to control. Learn the ins and outs of your machine, and don't try to push beyond the capability of the machine and you will do well. I use a 14" and an 18". I love both of them, they both do a great job. Hope that helps, Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyb Posted August 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 Sounds good Rich. Thanks! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarter Posted August 28, 2007 Report Share Posted August 28, 2007 I have one of those 10" Craftsmen. Although it has its flaws, it can be setup to do a decent job. On mine, it cut great out of the box, but eventually ended up much like you describe. It quit cutting strait and had a guide bearing freeze. After a new blade, bearing, and learning how to setup and care for it, it is back making very good cuts. I got the replacement bearings from this Ebay seller http://stores.ebay.com/VXB-Bearings-Skateboard-and-Slotcar The size is 6 x 19 mm http://cgi.ebay.com/20-Bearing-Lot-626-ZZ-...oQQcmdZViewItem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyb Posted August 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2007 I have one of those 10" Craftsmen. Although it has its flaws, it can be setup to do a decent job. On mine, it cut great out of the box, but eventually ended up much like you describe. It quit cutting strait and had a guide bearing freeze. After a new blade, bearing, and learning how to setup and care for it, it is back making very good cuts. I got the replacement bearings from this Ebay seller http://stores.ebay.com/VXB-Bearings-Skateboard-and-Slotcar The size is 6 x 19 mm http://cgi.ebay.com/20-Bearing-Lot-626-ZZ-...oQQcmdZViewItem Thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdw3332 Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 As always Rich, a great tutorial. Thanks. I have one question, you mention "beam strength" being set correctly. How do you assure that it is without relying on the markings on the machine? Thanks in advance, Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted September 1, 2007 Report Share Posted September 1, 2007 Let's add one more thing: de-tension the blade as soon as you're finished using the saw! As for tension, I do it by feel: push the blade from the side, and you'll notice it deflects a little 'easily', and then it hits a 'wall'. On my saw, I want less than 1/4" of 'easy' deflection before hitting that wall. Also, run the blade: if it flutters, it's likely not tensioned well enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted September 2, 2007 Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 Marty, The marks on any bandsaw I have ever worked with have been too low. Deflection testing as Mattia mentioned is a simple approch done by feel and works fine. Not the most accurate, but it works if you get a feel for the right stiffness. The most accurate method would be to use a gauge. I have heard of a method that tests blade thickness(before and after tension), but have never used it. If you have ever taken a blade up to full rated tension, you will realise it takes a lot of spring strength. I don't believe you have to crank a blade quite that hard though. My 14" has a higher rate aftermarket spring(but it can't tension anything bigger than a 3/4" woodslicer which is a very thin blade, and that is pretty much maxed), my 18" has dual springs(one reason I selected the machine) and can handle a 1" carbide with room to spare(but that is the largest blade I need, or would be a good idea with 18" wheels). Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted September 7, 2007 Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 It sounds like you would benifit from revisiting your owners manual. Highland hardware has some handy information on bandsaws. Lenox offers tips on blades and troubleshoting also. A bandsaw is a tool that is pretty simple, but there are a lot of things that can impact the operation. You need to ensure the machine is in good working order. Starting with the wheels(they need to be aligned, check them). You need to look at the tires, are they in good working order. You need to make sure the guides, arm and such are solid and not loose. I will get back to the blade later, but lets assume the blade is new and in perfect condition. You need to open all your guides and make sure nothing is touching the blade. Adjust your blade tension so that you get proper beam strength(do not trust your tension guide marks, they are likely to produce a setting that is very low. Beam strength is all that counts).Spin the blade by hand and adjust the upper wheel to ensure it tracks properly on the wheels(of course before doing any of this the machine should be unplugged). Again no guides touch the blade at this point and the blade. Now use a machinists square to set the table square to the blade. Now you can adjust your side guides. The key to doing this well is to not deflect the blade while you adgust your guides(the guides are set very very close but should not touch the blade). Depending on the type of guides you may be able to get extreamly close, but the blade will not benifit from being forced into place. During operation you will get some buildup(pitch, resin and what not) which can cause the blade to bind, or deflect more to one side or the other. It is a good idea to frequently clean your blade(I use mineral spirits, but you can buy other types of blade cleaners). One thing that is helpful while making these adjustments is to spin the wheel and look at the guides as the blade is moving, to see how well the clearance is set. Finally you want to bring in the rear bearings, again you want this close but you don't want the blade to ride on the guide. Now double check all your operations and setting to make sure the blade is tracking spot on and is square to the table. Before you can set your guide to use the saw. You need to find out what angle the blade is tracking at naturally. This may very well not be perfectly parallel to your table or the fence. This is where the ability to adjust your table is a must. You can attach a clip on(or even magnetic) straight edge to more easily see the angle of the blade. Be sure your fence is set parallel to the blade. That should set your machine up properly. Now blades. I could go on about how the teeth cut, set angles, kerf, metals, and on and on. Go to the lenox site and read up on blades. They have a wealth of information(everything you would need to know). They also give good tips on troubleshooting blade wear issues. One thing that can never be said enough though. Is that everytime your not using the machine release the blade tension(this is huge). You need to choose the right blade for your machine, the width of your cuts, the type of material you are cutting. Several guys on the board can chime in with recommendations if you want to give some more details on what you are cutting. Vaccume. You need to have a vaccume drawing dust away from the machine while you are cutting. This is not a dust control issue, this relates to blade performance. You need to help the blade clear the material being removed, avoid clogging and build up on the tires, guides etc... There are more hot rod tips you can get into, but the basic functional setting up is most important. You will find some hot rod tips will make setup easier, more reliable, and help the machine hold its set up. However you should be realistic about the bandsaw itself. If you think about it as a car you are using to race around a circle track. This saw may be like a compact street car, where a large Laguna may be a formula 1 car. You can learn to drive a street car with great skill, and hop it up. However you have to know the harder you push it the harder it will be to control. Learn the ins and outs of your machine, and don't try to push beyond the capability of the machine and you will do well. I use a 14" and an 18". I love both of them, they both do a great job. Hope that helps, Rich Give the man a cigar. Rich your the man Blade tension, size of the blade, number of teeth and fence angle. Every blade has its own natural angle even if it is the same size and brand. Too many teeth in the cut or too few. pusing to hard on a deep cut, porly set up guides or wheels or even problem tires. Could be many factors. Check around on the web for info on the cut you are making and suggest blade size as well as more setup tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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