Help On Fret Leveling

[DaveC]

I've been working on setting up my new MIM Standard Strat, and like most guys on this forum, good isn't good enough. I can't get the strings equally low measured at the 12th fret w/o getting a sight buzz at some strings. Where the buzz shows up differs depending on the string. Most strings are at 3/64" at the 12th fret with low strings slightly higher but under 4/64" and trebble E closer to 2/64". So, not bad but I would like to get them all consistent and as low as possible. Probably something between 2/64 & 3/64" on the trebble side and 3/64" or slightly higher with the low strings. I have a few questions about fret leveling, but first a little info.

NUT HEIGHT

I've checked the string height at the nut holding down between the 2nd & 3rd frets, and measuring with a feeler guage at the first fret. The gap appears to vary between .005" to around .007". Not certain how much precision iIshould be looking for?

None are below .005 which seems to be the lower end on what is acceptable, and none are higher than .007". Is this "good enough"? If not, should they all be as close to .005" as possible?

TRUSS

In tune using a straightedge, the gap between the straightedge and the 7th fret is .008".

INTONATION

Spot on.

FRET LEVELING QUESTIONS

1) I am confused by what I have read. Am I trying to level all frets to the plane of the strings (which makes the most sense to me) or the plane of a "flat" fretboard? Most posts talk about adjusting the truss to flatten the fretboard? I don't get it? First, there is no way you are going to get a piece of wood with a truss in it really flat! I would expect several thousandths variation across the entire length? 2) If you put a straightedge across the frets which are also not even in height, again, the measurement will be different at different frets assuming the use of a feeler gauge between the straightedge and the frets? 3) If the idea is to be able to have lower string height , then it seems to me that you would ideally want to level the frets with the truss rod properly adjusted so the the top of the frets are leveled to the plane of the strings as opposed to the fretboard since we know we want some relief in the fretboard which means there will be some bow in it?

Even if you were able to straighten the neck perfectly and then leveled the frets to one another, when you put strings back on and adjusted the truss for proper relief the frets would no longer be level with the stings across the length of the fretboard since there is bow in the neck.

What I am not understanding here?

[soapbarstrat]

Don't feel like writing a book.

Your 1st fret string action is on the high side for my standards. The .005"/.007" is high for the 3rd fret press method, but the .005"/.007" would be a little low if you were not pressing the string @ 3rd fret.

At the very least, you want to be able to sit a 4" *accurate* straight-edge on any span of frets of the neck and not be able to fit a .001" or larger feeler between S.E. and any fret. Most of the time you just need to see if the S.E. rocks. For those about to rock, we salute you.

[DaveC]

Don't feel like writing a book.

Your 1st fret string action is on the high side for my standards. The .005"/.007" is high for the 3rd fret press method, but the .005"/.007" would be a little low if you were not pressing the string @ 3rd fret.

At the very least, you want to be able to sit a 4" *accurate* straight-edge on any span of frets of the neck and not be able to fit a .001" or larger feeler between S.E. and any fret. Most of the time you just need to see if the S.E. rocks. For those about to rock, we salute you.

Thanks for the reply. Care to tell us what your standards are?

[soapbarstrat]

My standards are not unique. same as the lower settings you'll find on that one StewMac nut making page, where they show a bunch of specs out of Erlwines 'make it play great' book.

Nut action height is one area where I really wonder how non-player builder/repairmen understand how big of a difference "subtle differences" make.